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Clutching advise...

W

Wilmotriverside

New Member
Messages
19
Age
57
Location
Twin lakes wi
2016 Axys 800 Rush
1.74 Gearing
Primary: Polaris Black Spring 120/310 10/68 Weights
Indy Dan Balanced and Overdrive Cut

Secondary: Team Red/Dark Blue Spring 140-200
50-44f Helix

SLP Can
126 studs
180lb Rider Weight

From a dead stop sled goes right up to 8250rpms and pulls hard. The problem is when I let off and get back into the throttle it only goes to 7500rpms and slowly climbs from there. I also have some belt slippage. What would help that? Otherwise sled runs great!

Do I have the wrong secondary spring and if so what suggestions. Thanks
 

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YOUY CAN DO ONE OF TWO THINGS ...EITHER BACK OFF ON THE HELIX TO 48-44,OR 46-42 OR PUT ANSTIFFER REAR SPRING IN IT ..LIKE A 140-220, OR A 155-222 FOR HIGH SPEED TRAIL60-80 MPH THE BLACK SPRING WILL WORK VERY WELL KEEPING THE SLED IN THE RIGHT RATIO..
 
i have pretty much the same setup (1.76gear, 120/310, 10-68, 50-44fp with 140-220 spring) if i understand correctly a 155-222 spring will be better for top speed?
 
Michael said:
i have pretty much the same setup (1.76gear, 120/310, 10-68, 50-44fp with 140-220 spring) if i understand correctly a 155-222 spring will be better for top speed?
Click to expand...
That's a pretty good spring choice. Try it out. You should definitely get less belt slippage.
 
Michael said:
i have pretty much the same setup (1.76gear, 120/310, 10-68, 50-44fp with 140-220 spring) if i understand correctly a 155-222 spring will be better for top speed?
Click to expand...
What doc is sayin is go with a shallower cam and lighter spring in secondary as first choice. Or , use what you got for a cam and add a 155/222 . It won’t slip on hole shot or up top with the 50/44 fp
 
thanks guy's
 
Actually, the 155/222 has a softer rate than the 140/220 and thus it will shift out faster and back shift slower.
 
I am looking for some advice as well. I have 2016 SB 270lbs with gear on.

It launchs hard and after it hooks up bogs then pull 8300 steady!
1 Would the 48/44 work better ?
2 Should i be clucthed a little lighter in the heel and run 8500-8600 ?

Set up now
Primary,ssi adjustable@ 72.4 grams,belt to sheave 0.015",120/310 spring
Secondary,50/44 fp,140/220 spring
1.74 ratio
bikeman pipe
slp muffler
ssi head
pcv
Bikeman Durabilty kit
 
Yes the 48-44 would work better, sounds like you have a miss shift, may have to control your ski lift some, but the helix change will help, and that spring is plenty strong for the 48-44.
Or you could put he 155-222 spring in and try the 50-44 again, up to you
 
Just-Pinch-It said:
Actually, the 155/222 has a softer rate than the 140/220 and thus it will shift out faster and back shift slower.
Click to expand...

I totally get what you’re saying bud. I don’t just go by rate on a spring though. For instance?

It can have a high rate but belt slips down in secondary cuz of hole shot with a great studded track. Like a 120/240 has a high rate , but the 120 at start may let the belt slip down in secondary on a great hole shot with studs were a 140 start wouldn’t and let’s say it’s a 140/220. Less rate yes. But the 140 gives that belt pinch at start .

Tons of ways to clutch
 
Hey guys,

I' m curious if my track change will affect my current set up? I just installed the new Camso storm 150 and I can't wait to try It! I also have Brocks recommended setup which rocks, but I did have some belt slip in reverse last year so im installing the 3 delrin washers that never got put in.

Geared to 1.73

Primary,
70 gram weights
120/310 spring
0.015" belt to sheave
PCV

Secondary,
66/44.46
140/220 spring

Thanks for any thoughts. Let it snow!!!
 
The bigger lug will have more resistance
I’d lighten weights with current set up and get a shallower start cam like a 46/42 full progressive
Or keep everything the same and gear it to 1.81 gear ratio.
Try these

Might wanna invest in set screw adjustable weights too
 
Brock said:
The bigger lug will have more resistance
I’d lighten weights with current set up and get a shallower start cam like a 46/42 full progressive
Or keep everything the same and gear it to 1.81 gear ratio.
Try these

Might wanna invest in set screw adjustable weights too
Click to expand...

10-66 or 68's?
 
Just got SLP stage 2 kit with the new Magnum weights. They ship a 160/340 primary spring with that kit. Seems awful high to me. Don't want a high engagement rpm to bad. Do I just load the hell out of the weights or what? Secondary spring is alright I think at 140/220. I weigh about 300 geared to 1.74. 16' Pro S 800 switchy. Thoughts?
 
Jesusfreak said:
10-66 or 68's?
Click to expand...
Try 68’s
Poopoo4me said:
Just got SLP stage 2 kit with the new Magnum weights. They ship a 160/340 primary spring with that kit. Seems awful high to me. Don't want a high engagement rpm to bad. Do I just load the hell out of the weights or what? Secondary spring is alright I think at 140/220. I weigh about 300 geared to 1.74. 16' Pro S 800 switchy. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
What elevation are you and track lug height?
 
1.25 track. Sea level. U.P. wi and mn rider. Wish I knew more about the weights they have. Magnum weights. I got 10-68's in there now with gold spring.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 
I recommend the 1.81 gearing....this ratio is fantastic to 100!
 
Brock said:
The bigger lug will have more resistance
I’d lighten weights with current set up and get a shallower start cam like a 46/42 full progressive
Or keep everything the same and gear it to 1.81 gear ratio.
Try these

Might wanna invest in set screw adjustable weights too
Click to expand...

Hey Brock,
What's the results of not making any of the changes you talk about here, other than the primary weights? I've spent some buck$ already with rear track springs, revalve, new track and studs.
Just wondering what I can expect, thanks!
 
Brock I like what you're saying about gearing I think I'm going to go with the 1.74 or 1.73 I just purchased a 2017 XCR 800 what my biggest concern is not losing corner to corner speed what do you guys recommend for clutching and can any of the stock parts like helix be reused since picking the sled up I've put an SLp trail can 96 studs. P.s. Sled still has 0 miles so it hasn't been broke in does that matter for rpm's guys? Last thing my weight 240 lbs
 
Last edited:
Rpm's are restricted due to break-in period, around 16-18 hours of ride time will change fuel delivery / ECU controls this thru factory settings as well as oil delivery. They purposely do this so we don't wot the motor into metal fragments all over the trail. I take it easy for a bit then move thru the power range of the cvt system. It's important that you do this properly. The D wrench will tell everything and or void your warranty. if you run it hard and hot, lubrication can fail this costs you money and more importantly time riding instead of riding your shop stool looking at your ruined motor while your holding your voided warranty documents from Polaris. I've been riding / wrenching for 40 years.. just my little opinion.
 
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