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600 switchback not getting fuel

born2race59

New Member
Messages
10
Age
64
Location
55001
Country
USA
Years Snowmobiling
56
Snowmobile
switchback
I need some help. My 2013 600 quit running and the problem is it is not getting fuel. I have disconnected the fuel pump harness at the connector and checked for 12v power when cranking over engine and I have none. If I hot wire pump with 12v it turns on and pumps fuel but engine will not start. If I put fuel down plug hole engine will start. Capacitor will hold a change if I put 12v to it. Any thoughts? I would rather not just start replacing parts.
 
When it starts on the fuel down the cylinder does it stay running or die?
 
Probably not long enough to get any malfunction codes off the display then. Once display loses power, it doesn't store them there anymore.
Only way to get the code history is to have dealer plug into the ECU and retrieve them.
Its at least getting enough power to fire the ECU, or else you wouldn't have spark.
Sounds like its possibly the regulator since that sends a voltage boost to fire the pump on startup, see B/E below. The little bit the sled was running showed no voltage at the pump still?
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I will get a voltage regulator and try that. I forgot to mention that lights do come on when cranking it over. Also, why won't it run when I hot wire the pump?
 
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I will get a voltage regulator and try that. I forgot to mention that lights do come on when cranking it over. Also, why won't it run when I hot wire the pump?
Lighting is on a separate circuit off the stator.
Looking further in the manual, the injectors are also powered off that orange feed to the ECU. Check for 16v at the injectors and the fuel pump while pulling the rope.
You are sure the capacitor is good?
 
Probably not long enough to get any malfunction codes off the display then. Once display loses power, it doesn't store them there anymore.
Only way to get the code history is to have dealer plug into the ECU and retrieve them.
Its at least getting enough power to fire the ECU, or else you wouldn't have spark.
Sounds like its possibly the regulator since that sends a voltage boost to fire the pump on startup, see B/E below. The little bit the sled was running showed no voltage at the pump still?
View attachment 5214
I wish you were right. I tried a new voltage regulator today; it was not the issue.
 
Unfortunately Polaris doesn't have any diagnostic flowcharts in the service manuals, they are all on the dealers Digital Wrench software. They only have wiring schematics and some basic descriptions like I posted above.
Whats the input voltage to the regulator ( 2 yellow wires) from the stator?
 
Lighting is on a separate circuit off the stator.
Looking further in the manual, the injectors are also powered off that orange feed to the ECU. Check for 16v at the injectors and the fuel pump while pulling the rope.
You are sure the capacitor is good?
Capacitor holds 12v when 12v put directly to it. Lights do come on when cranking it over with electric start. I will check for voltage at injectors pulling the rope instead. Do you think the lights come on when turning it over with electric start because 12v from battery is transferring over?
 
The headlights are on their own separate AC circuit coil off the stator along with the handwarmers, thats why they start to glow only when cranking.
The battery, besides cranking, does power the 12v DC chassis circuit which includes the display, the LED taillight, and any DC accessories. This is part of that circuit from that regulator you changed, however there is a completely separate circuit for the engine management side.

I was wrong about the injectors in my post above, there is a third 16V DC system circuit coil off the stator that powers the ECU directly and also fires them. The wiring for this circuit from the stator to the ECU is also orange just to add confusion differentiating it from that boost feed from the regulator (thanks Polaris).

Bottom line, I'd check for 14v over the 2 yellows at the plug feeding the regulator from the stator while cranking. Check for 16v at the injectors. They also say check pump voltage but you already did that.
 
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Which 2 wires did you check at the pump?
 
The headlights are on their own separate AC circuit coil off the stator along with the handwarmers, thats why they start to glow only when cranking.
The battery, besides cranking, does power the 12v DC chassis circuit which includes the display, the LED taillight, and any DC accessories. This is part of that circuit from that regulator you changed, however there is a completely separate circuit for the engine management side.

I was wrong about the injectors in my post above, there is a third 16V DC system circuit coil off the stator that powers the ECU directly and also fires them. The wiring for this circuit from the stator to the ECU is also orange just to add confusion differentiating it from that boost feed from the regulator (thanks Polaris).

Bottom line, I'd check for 14v over the 2 yellows at the plug feeding the regulator from the stator while cranking. Check for 16v at the injectors. They also say check pump voltage but you already did that.
I'm not seeing anything out of yellow wire from stator. Why do lights come on? The other connection checking red wires that connect to orange wires has low voltage. Thinking about trying a new stator. If this is the problem, it would be my second stator replacement on this sled.
 
Remember this system is different from 12v car systems which are one giant DC loop.
There are 3 separate loops off the stator that run independent of each other, this is setup so it can run battery less. In your case the battery is just there as an accessory to run the ES, its only ties to the sled 12vDC for re-charging. The headlights are on a independent AC loop & coil off the stator, thats why they begin seeing voltage only when you crank. The ECU voltage is provided by the 3rd stator loop I described above.
So its possible you cooked one part of the stator and the other 2 are still functional.
The voltage off the stator is AC, make sure you changed the meter, and should be 14v across terminals C/D below. It should also have roughly 0.20 OHMS resistance across it.
I would also check the 4 pin plug directly off the stator with the 3 yellows and 1 brown wire. That is part of the feed to this regulator.
Unfortuately they don't give much more than what I've posted. I'm guessing the ECU wont do anything until it sees the B/E boost voltage from here, thats why it wouldn't fire the injectors even after you primed the system manually.

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If you want to check directly at the stator, its wires 76 &77 in the 4 pin I highlighted below that feed the regulator
1640320765048.png
 
850 thanks for the help. It was the stator. Your diagrams were help full .
 
Glad I could help, just wish we figured that out before you bought the regulator.
Surprised it cooked a second stator. I would clean up the grounds on the chassis and coat them with dielectic grease to help prevent corrosion. That could possibly be causing a problem here.
l was never a fan of how Polaris weather proofed the harness in these sleds, me and my buddy went thru our Pro Rs when they were new and coated the connections with dielectric to try and prevent water getting in.
 
The bolts loosened up that held the stator on, and it got into the flywheel.
 


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