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High Beam light and hand warmers

Firstpolaris2017

New Member
Messages
13
Age
49
Location
gfw
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
26
Snowmobile
2018 800 Polaris switchback assault 144
Hey guys, just brought my new sba 800 home today and just playing around with all the switches and I've notice that I have no highbeam or hand and thumb warmers when I start my sled but after I let it warm up a bit and get it a little gas it works, does this sled have a power limit below so much rpm of the motor??
 
IMG_20171125_141021.jpg
 
Nice rig. Yes the handwarmers and high beams are disabled at idle so the circuits maintain enough current for things like the electronic oil pump and so on. Totally normal.
 
Thanks man for the reply
 
hey guys dealer told me to wait until 100 degree F before I run this sled but It takes a real long time and it isn't really cold out yet but at the same time the 600 swa is ready in no time.
 
I let mine run up to 80. Then I just go easy until thermo opens (you can see this by monitoring temp on gauge ) then when temps stabalize I just let it have it.as far as high beams and hand warmers like stated above its part of load shedding sending availible juice to the parts that could cause catastrophic failure if not powered up.
 
I let mine run up to 80. Then I just go easy until thermo opens (you can see this by monitoring temp on gauge ) then when temps stabalize I just let it have it.as far as
beams and hand warmers like stated above its part of load shedding sending availible juice to the parts that could cause catastrophic failure if not powered up.
t
I let mine run up to 80. Then I just go easy until thermo opens (you can see this by monitoring temp on gauge ) then when temps stabalize I just let it have it.as far as high beams and hand warmers like stated above its part of load shedding sending availible juice to the parts that could cause catastrophic failure if not powered up.
I will be doing the same now, let it warm up to about 80 then use it wisely and when it reaches 100 drive it like I stole it, lol thanks for the info, also do you use scratchers and which kind you have?
 
== DC ELECTRIC POWER MANAGEMENT ====

. Power Circuits Overview. All loads on the AXYS sleds are powered by DC power.

1. DC System Power (orange) 16V supports Fuel Injectors, Ignition Coils, ECU / regulated to 5V for Sensors. Dedicated magneto stator coils feed this circuit thru orange leads.
2. DC Engine Power (red) 14.5V supports Exhaust Valve Solenoid & Gauge Relay Coil (600), Exhaust Valve Actuator & Relay & PWM Convertor & Capacitor Relay (800), Electronic Oil Pump, Fuel Pump, Instrument Cluster MFD/IDD. Dedicated magneto stator coils feed this circuit thru black leads.

3. DC Chassis power (red/white) 14.5V supports Pass. Warmers, Low Headlights, Taillights, 2amp. fuse to Brakelights, 2amp. fuse to hood 12v (cig. lighter) outlet. Dedicated magneto stator coils feed this circuit thru yellow leads.

Thru Load Shed Relay (red/blue): Handlebar & Thumb Warmers, High Beam Headlights, RCA (faceshield) accessory connector and thru Battery Charge Relay: recharge of battery.

4. Battery (red) 12V DC Powers Electric Start solenoid and Starter motor. Goes thru a 20amp. auto-resetting circuit breaker (red/black) and Powers Electric Start Solenoid receives battery charge thru charging relay, also feeds 2amp. Constant Power fuse (gray/red) powers ignition key to IDD gauge when KEY ON or START.

---

DC power management turns off/disconnects some loads under certain circumstances. The priority is to make sure the 800HO VES electronic Smart Actuator, the oil pump, the fuel pump, the low beam Headlight and brake/tail lamps have sufficient power.

The ECU will turn ON the LOAD SHED RELAY (red/blue), when:

1. Engine Speed is in excess of 2200 RPM.

The Load Shed Relay is Open or OFF, when the engine is not running, and when the engine starts.

After Initial engine startup, it is recommended to allow the idle to stabilize and then apply throttle to bring RPM above the 2200 RPM load shedding threshold. (This will get power to the handlebar hand/thumb warmers & high beam headlights).

You can then release the throttle, and so long as the idle stays above 1400 RPM (MY15) / 1500 RPM (MY16up), with 11 volts D.C. or higher, the load shed relay will stay ON.

The ECU will turn OFF the high beam headlights, handlebar hand/thumb warmers and battery relay power, via the LOAD SHED RELAY, when either one of these conditions occur:

1. Engine Speed less than 1400 RPM (MY15) / 1500 RPM (MY16up). Normal idle after break-in is 1700 RPM
_ OR
2. DC Voltage on the Chassis Circuit is less than 11 Volts D.C.


---

The BATTERY CHARGE RELAY will open and not charge the battery, when either one of these conditions occur:

1. Engine Speed less than 2500 RPM
_ OR
2. DC Voltage on the Chassis circuit is less than 13 Volts D.C.

Otherwise, if the engine is running, the BATTERY CHARGE RELAY will be closed and charge the battery.
 
== DC ELECTRIC POWER MANAGEMENT ====

. Power Circuits Overview. All loads on the AXYS sleds are powered by DC power.

1. DC System Power (orange) 16V supports Fuel Injectors, Ignition Coils, ECU / regulated to 5V for Sensors. Dedicated magneto stator coils feed this circuit thru orange leads.
2. DC Engine Power (red) 14.5V supports Exhaust Valve Solenoid & Gauge Relay Coil (600), Exhaust Valve Actuator & Relay & PWM Convertor & Capacitor Relay (800), Electronic Oil Pump, Fuel Pump, Instrument Cluster MFD/IDD. Dedicated magneto stator coils feed this circuit thru black leads.

3. DC Chassis power (red/white) 14.5V supports Pass. Warmers, Low Headlights, Taillights, 2amp. fuse to Brakelights, 2amp. fuse to hood 12v (cig. lighter) outlet. Dedicated magneto stator coils feed this circuit thru yellow leads.

Thru Load Shed Relay (red/blue): Handlebar & Thumb Warmers, High Beam Headlights, RCA (faceshield) accessory connector and thru Battery Charge Relay: recharge of battery.

4. Battery (red) 12V DC Powers Electric Start solenoid and Starter motor. Goes thru a 20amp. auto-resetting circuit breaker (red/black) and Powers Electric Start Solenoid receives battery charge thru charging relay, also feeds 2amp. Constant Power fuse (gray/red) powers ignition key to IDD gauge when KEY ON or START.

---

DC power management turns off/disconnects some loads under certain circumstances. The priority is to make sure the 800HO VES electronic Smart Actuator, the oil pump, the fuel pump, the low beam Headlight and brake/tail lamps have sufficient power.

The ECU will turn ON the LOAD SHED RELAY (red/blue), when:

1. Engine Speed is in excess of 2200 RPM.

The Load Shed Relay is Open or OFF, when the engine is not running, and when the engine starts.

After Initial engine startup, it is recommended to allow the idle to stabilize and then apply throttle to bring RPM above the 2200 RPM load shedding threshold. (This will get power to the handlebar hand/thumb warmers & high beam headlights).

You can then release the throttle, and so long as the idle stays above 1400 RPM (MY15) / 1500 RPM (MY16up), with 11 volts D.C. or higher, the load shed relay will stay ON.

The ECU will turn OFF the high beam headlights, handlebar hand/thumb warmers and battery relay power, via the LOAD SHED RELAY, when either one of these conditions occur:

1. Engine Speed less than 1400 RPM (MY15) / 1500 RPM (MY16up). Normal idle after break-in is 1700 RPM
_ OR
2. DC Voltage on the Chassis Circuit is less than 11 Volts D.C.


---

The BATTERY CHARGE RELAY will open and not charge the battery, when either one of these conditions occur:

1. Engine Speed less than 2500 RPM
_ OR
2. DC Voltage on the Chassis circuit is less than 13 Volts D.C.

Otherwise, if the engine is running, the BATTERY CHARGE RELAY will be closed and charge the battery.
Good Info thanks
 
t

I will be doing the same now, let it warm up to about 80 then use it wisely and when it reaches 100 drive it like I stole it, lol thanks for the info, also do you use scratchers and which kind you have?
No I don't . The conditions here don't usually call for any addition cooling or lubing methods. At least not on the axys proxc configuration. Maybe diff. On assault but I haven't heard any issues last year on it. I have one in the crate (assault ) but not sure if I'm gonna take it or not. My 17 is still mint. I know onthe 16 and older assault my buddy had to use them when we didn't. But this is a different horse .So long story short. I don't know crap about scratchers so I defer to guys that do have expierence with them
 
First ride last night conditions weren't great but this sled is fun to ride, but it takes real long to warm up compared to the 600 assault, also this sled is brand new so should I put some oil into the gas for the first tank. any break-in info would be greatly appreciated
 
I put in a quart of blue or any other dino oil for the first tank. Polaris I believe now has recommended VES in the first tank but I prefer dino to syn in the first tank. Let er smoke!
 
I was putting oil in tank in 15 as recommended .BUT both myself and buddy did not do this on our 17models. We did make sure oil was all the way to fittings so no bubbles to starve it. On a cfi putting oil in the tank still only blows it into port via injector. This also displaces some of the fuel coming through the injector (I don't feel this is an issue really unless your already on the edge ) so some oil may make it into the cyl but on top of piston and at best work its way around and give the smallest amount of additional lube. Which during break in on these super hard cyl coatings and rings I'm not sure that's the best idea. This made a lot more sence when diff. Materials were being used and the oil fuel mix was in the base . ESP as a way to make sure the pump and oil lines were working well. But since the fuel (fuel /oil mix ) is t in the base anymore idk. Not really as effective . Anyway I'm not telling you don't do it all I'm saying is I don't and my sled runs like a raped ape ,broke in strong ,and has over 130 in bother holes at 250 miles and still does at 1200. On my gauge .results may vary.
 
Polaris no longer recommends adding oil to fuel tank. This just changed this year for 18 models. It will foul plugs if you do
 
I been breaking in my assault and it runs about 100 degrees all the time even in very low slow down bare roads the temps stay low its pretty amazing. But warming it up to 100 would take forever. I warm it up to 80 and then ride it taking it easy until its good and warm
 
Here's my take on Poo not recommending adding oil to the first tank of fuel anymore.
Back when oil pumps were mechanically driven, there was no good way of confirming oil flow short of running the engine for a few minutes. With the new electric oil pump on both the 800 and the 600, the difficulty of bleeding the oil lines and confirming oil flow are a thing of the past. Anyone can cycle the oil pump and confirm flow.
With the extra oil flow built into the break in mode, adding oil isn't needed any more.

Can anyone confirm if adding oil to the first tank is still recommended on the new Indys with the mechanical oil pumps?
 


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