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TPS on AXYS

Brock

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,044
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
30+
Snowmobile
Polaris
Throttle position sensor's are nothing new.

Its a sensor feeding information back to ECU to where throttle body position is. This information tells the ECU to adjust fuel curve and some timing.
Since Polaris switched the TPS to mag side over from PTO side for the AXYS. It makes me think,why the position it was put in???? Was this to hinder people from adjusting it???It's so low and to many things in front of it(hard to adjust) Also, the muffler is right there. I don't like this. Heat can cause funny things to sensors.

Seems to me, this was not a good spot, It should be on PTO side were there is less heat.

When I was dynoing some axys sled's. I toke video's of the digital wrench on laptop and the values.Good thing I did this as it can be replayed and screenshot's. I noticed the TPS setting at WOT had moved when @ WOT from oringinal setting hours earlier.

I set my TPS base @ 0.708 volts,WOT @ 4.321 volts and idle @ 0.917 volts.

It moved, I'm thinking this is heat related as exhaust is near.

It went from 4.321 volts @ WOT to 4.301 volts @ WOT.

The thing is,if the WOT voltage moved,well so did the base voltage. This particular TPS has a range of 3.613. There all slightly different by the way.

How this is calculated is
4.321 volts WOT
- 0.708 base volts
=3.613 range

What I'm getting at is. If my WOT throttle voltage dropped, so did the base voltage. This is were it may cause problems as the DW has parameters when going into setting base voltage. When your setting base on DW it's very clear as you turn the TPS the DW turns green when in parameters and red when not. When I was doing this, I checked the base voltage parameters. I wanted to see how low and high you can go while staying in the good. 0.690 to 0.712, if your between those,it's ok.

Well,if your voltage is slightly out of range it can cause the ECU to change fuel curve(usually rich)

So, my WOT was now 4.301 @ WOT, now minus my range(3.613) which equals 0.688 @ base voltage now. This is very so slightly out of DW parameters.This was on the dyno. So, I'm wondering if heat may have cause this slight voltage change. Since the muffler is right close, it can or may happen. Just a theory.

If fuel is added cause of TPS bieng slightly out of parameters with under hood heat, add a cold pipe(not enough heat) pulling raw fuel through, down comes rev's,HP and more. Just poking at this and finding out more as we go.
 

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That's good thinking...hell of a write up!! Thanks. Now you have me think...lol...
All good my friend.

I'm trying to find info on some problems and getting more knowledge on this the more I test and dig.

My information is free to help.
 
All good my friend.

I'm trying to find info on some problems and getting more knowledge on this the more I test and dig.

My information is free to help.

And trust me, Me and everyone else appreciates that!! See TPS and all that I understand, it's the clutching that messes me up...lol...as I have said in everyone of my post...lol...I just want to make sure I'm using all of my HP, don't get me wrong this 800 rips and I love the power it has. I lost to a turbo Viper by around 6 sleds, then after SLP stage 2 I only lost by one sled. But the clutching was off. Now it's way better, but haven't had the chance since the clutch was fixed to race a turbo Viper. And these are trail turbo vipers in talking about. I need a different helix and different spring, and I'm going to get the gates belt for next year.
 
I have been talking a lot with Full Power Performance and he said he has a helix and clutch kit that will go good with what I have and including his head, and fuel controller. And my weight. And I'm willing to add more HP better reliability and a faster sled, sounds good to me! Justin at FPP said his head worked better than expected. So I can't wait! Just hate waiting, and hoping we get some snow!!

I hate that part of this sport!!
 
There is room for improvement on any sled made.
I'm just getting answers on the stock sleds, because once there working, there good.
 
Right on, well mine was running great in stock form, 8250 rpm's and I just wanted some more HP. I have had good luck with SLP so that's why I got another one. I think once I'm done with everything that I want to do, I'll be running a strong 175-180 HP. I hope!! That's why I have been watching you tube videos like crazy to learn clutching and so far I have learned a lot. So I'll keep watching and keep watching dyno runs to see what exactly I want. I'm really thinking about a turbo, but I just don't want the headache. But I want the speed!!
 
Update on tps settings.

There is some variences in tps voltages from one sled to another. Polaris has been using this tps for a long time. They use it in e everything by the way. Quads, sxs, and snowmobiles.

The base of tps setting is the most important. It needs to be around 0.700 volts.
The good range is from 0.690- 0.712 volts. Set it closer to 0.700 volts at base.

This is very important.
If your sled is running rich as in fouled plugs, your tps setting could be off.
Get your dealer to set base idle were I stated above. Then check your wot voltage, this should range from 4.238 - 4.38 and absolutely no higher.
then set idle around 0.917 volts.

A lot of dealers just check idle and wot voltage, this is the wrong method to check as your base is the most important. In order to do this, the air box needs to be removed, throttle cable unhooked from thumb lever and back out idle set screw. All this on dw.
 
this has been the same on the pro-r's and really all c.f.i. sleds. the base voltage real needs to be verified on any sled experiencing any drivability or plug fowling issues. I think the ex. heat also has something to do with the changing tps voltage? I posted on this a while back on hcs as I have seen the same thing. the tps sensor location is moved on the axys to the rh side of the throttle body's. they used to be on the lh side?
 
this has been the same on the pro-r's and really all c.f.i. sleds. the base voltage real needs to be verified on any sled experiencing any drivability or plug fowling issues. I think the ex. heat also has something to do with the changing tps voltage? I posted on this a while back on hcs as I have seen the same thing. the tps sensor location is moved on the axys to the rh side of the throttle body's. they used to be on the lh side?
I think Polaris moved tps to mag side and hid it well so people wouldn't screw with it as much.
I also think heat can affect the tps from exhaust now that it's moved near the muffler. How much and if any is the question??

Best way to test this would be hooked up to dw with tps showing in hi resolution and put a heat gun to it. Of course you'd have to simulate the exact heat from exhaust(no more) If it changes voltage while heat is applied then that's bad.

Do you have access to dw or does the bully dog show tps voltage too. I don't have a bully dog , that's why I'm asking.
 
I'll bet someone is or will be working on a heat shield to isolate the throttle bodies from exhaust heat.
How much room is there to work with between the two?
Might be the next POO update.
 
I think Polaris moved tps to mag side and hid it well so people wouldn't screw with it as much.
I also think heat can affect the tps from exhaust now that it's moved near the muffler. How much and if any is the question??

Best way to test this would be hooked up to dw with tps showing in hi resolution and put a heat gun to it. Of course you'd have to simulate the exact heat from exhaust(no more) If it changes voltage while heat is applied then that's bad.

Do you have access to dw or does the bully dog show tps voltage too. I don't have a bully dog , that's why I'm asking.

I do but the dealer doesn't know how to use it properly. so I use either a power commander or a bully dog. yes the bully dog will show tps voltage.
 


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