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2015 axys 800 Low rpm /TPS/Exhaust valve second stage

SledbuilderJD

New Member
Messages
24
Age
57
Location
PA
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
35
Snowmobile
2015 axys,2011 rush retro 2010 Rush
Guys
Does any one have a Document describing the functional control of the exhaust valves, what is the trigger for the second stage opening ...
I am only getting 8000 rpm (66' against 120-310.... unfortunately the issue showed up during clutch testing .... took out weight ...added spring over and over ... Long story short I tried 10-64 against a 120-330 still 8000 rpm.
It Idles fine ,has compression in both holes ex valves move freely... I suspect ex valves are not opening all the way...Relays test good (cleaned some corrosion off pins on relays /No difference)
Does anyone have a service manual for sale?
Thanks
 
BTW... Its all stock except gear change and a Power Commander I Tested ) maps in both Fuel and timing...
 
Can u take a screenshot of the timing map please?

If u wanna send a pm instead , that’s ok too
 
@ 100% TP it is 2 DEG from 4500 to 7000 7000-7500+3 7500-8000+2 8000 -up 0
I tested a "0" map (No advance or retard) with the same results ...in RPM
I will post the Map tonight when I get home. I also tried leaning out 8000 and up -4% as well as Adding +4 in Fuel....
 
Also To Be clear This was a late summer purchase(The Sled) I only put 60 miles on it, thought I was 2-3 grams heavy in the primary... that is what led to clutch testing ...and the conclusion that there is another issue . It acts like a bad bellows in the old exhaust valves...
 
Worn out motor mounts? Can cause motor twist and not pull any rpms
 
I can take a look at that... Center to center and belt width looked good ,But i did not check belt length (never assume)
 
I have heard of this being solved by having the valves relearned even though there was know error codes displayed.
 
no to the correct gear ratio in the ECU yet . Does it care?
ALSO No I have not had the valves re learned. Yet....I hate taking crap to the dealer if I dont know exactly what I am asking them to do...
thanks
 
First thing I would do is pull all advanced timing out . You didn’t mention a pipe? So it’s a stock pipe
 
yes stock pipe...
Timing...
upload_2018-1-22_18-3-7.png
 
Save map and pull all timing out and see what it does?
 
Did that ...That is the "0" map reference all 0's in both fuel and timing...
I did not unplug the PCV , Its kinda a pain in the ass to get to the connectors...
...... what happens if the coils are plugged into the wrong PCV connectors Mag/ PTO...At higher Rpm does it fire Both holes on top and bottom?
FYI It runs and pulls pretty hard to 8k....8100 it should be where it is at peak torque I cant get my head around what is happening ...
I appreciate any and all help, Thank you guys.
TPS Issue? Is there a known offset I can subtract from the values in the PCV to get close to what DW would report ?
( this is what PCV is reading .896-4.296)
 
I am out of snow at home , Heading to Tug hill on fri to do more testing... I have some things i want to try ...(unplug the PCV)
I will post .
Thanks
 
If you back off from full throttle a bit does it gain rpm?
 
I didnti plan is to notice ...One of the tests will be just that ...TPS test
 
wow wtf did that say... I didn't concisely take notice I will now...Thanks
 
I'm having same issue and when I ease on the throttle or back off a bit longer desired rpm...what's the issue?
the throttle plates open too far or past 90deg to the point that they go past full throttle and start to close the problem is the tps signal keeps rising, now you have extra fuel being added and the throttle blades starting to close. I have heard of guys wrapping tape around handle bar as a quick fix or remove throttle bodies - drill and tap dor an adjustable stop.
 


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