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The stator & VR plugs all look ok? Not even slightly deformed? I know people have had them get too hot and melt in the past.

Yeah my next comment was going to be I think you have a wiring gremlin somewhere in the harness, I was hoping the ground continuity check of the stator harness was going to fail and make it easy but the fact it came back to life after you screwed around with the connections for a while is...

Was this with the new capacitor you bought or the original? Also was that stator you bought Polairs OEM or aftermarket?

Check the resistance of both those stator circuits, per the manual the Z circuit to the VR has the higher resistance value 0.2 Ohms ( more coils). They unfortunately didn't give a good way to check the VR itself, the AXYS manual has diode checks you can perform on that VR but I havent seen it...

Well that kind of rules that out, thats what I primarily run too, but still worth checking the bowls just in case.

The Fitch catalysts only kill off any bacteria present to slow the fuel degredation, nothing more, despite their claims. You could still be building deposits on the jets, especially with crap ethanol that hates brass. Where are you primarily buying gas? Something with good detergent, or mostly...

I'm honestly out of ideas, only thing I have left, did you check the yellow wires for continuity to ground? directly at the stator plug and at the connection to the VR?

Are you getting 12v on each yellow probing to ground individually or did you put the meter probes on both yellows simultaneously?

I'm not sure that will do anything, the three X,Y, & Z circuits they show in the diagrams are wired independently of each other. What is the AC voltage you get when you probe across the yellow wires going ot the regulator?

I did a little looking around, to get the 14V DC output from the regulator on the red wire you should be seeing more than 20V AC input from the stator on those yellow wires for the conversion to happen. I would be scrutinizing all the connections & wiring from the stator to the VR. You are...

Not sure directly off the stator, its still AC at that point but they don't give a value for it, just the ohms for the circuit. The voltage regulator converts it to DC. How is the tail light, is it bright or very dim? The instrument cluster works ok? Have you checked all the pins in the...

I kind of remember doing a needle change on mine, but I had an SLP single on it so I was tuning for that also. I thought the needle change was to clean up that low end burble you are noticing, I remember having that too. I had the boost bottle too but turns out that was just covering for the...

One other thing, the Keihins adjustment screw are an AIR adjustment to the low end mixture not a fuel screw like the Mikunis. So they are doing the opposite when you adjust them and if they are plugged up, you get a really rich mixture down low.

I just remembered something, your sled as that altitude compensation system in the airbox. If you don't intend on operating it at higher elevation you should look into disconnecting it because its probably trying to screw with making it richer at sea level. Edit: nevermind, I think that was just...

I wouldn't bother with the pump yet, just pull the crankcase impulse line to make sure the diaphragms arn't leaking fuel thats getting sucked into the lower end. All that pump does is help get the fuel to the bowls. The fuel inlet needles & floats control the fuel level in the bowls, all that...

Ok that takes care of that. Go ahead and try it, those sleds were pig rich stock. That needle number sounds familiar but its been many years since I screwed around with re-jetting mine. What elevation are you running at?

I would honestly put a set of reeds in it first, the one thing I regretted not doing to my 700. I've since learned Polaris stock reeds were never that great and given the age of yours I can guarantee they are not sealing that tight anymore.

Ok I was wrong, this is where Polaris makes it confusing. That particular 144 RMK sled is still the old pro-ride chassis, so the first manual was the correct one. Does the service manual version you have cover up to the '16 models? The version I have stops at '13 and not sure if they made any...

That pic you posted looks like the pro-ride chassis manual, thats not right for your sled if its a 2016, you need the AXYS chassis manual (2015+) since there are alot of changes to the wiring in the newer chassis. Just noticed in your first post you only mention 1 relay, all the AXYS sleds have...

You have to concentrate on #6 on that list and fix the 6 volts, the capactior needs 12v from the sled in order to charge correctly. Reverse wont work without the capacitor since thats what holds the charge to keep everything alive while the motor is powering down. Also the drain of the capacitor...