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TAR pipe,best trail pipe I have tested in the field. Use adjustable weights,CPC,Daltons which ever you prefer this way you can adjust ur rpm as needed

the speedo is way off ,there fore the trip and miles traveled will be higher making it seam like you are getting 14-16 mpg...but your not.use dw to set your speed off a gps reading and use whatever ratio needed to program the ecu to get the speedo more accurate. both my speedos read slower then...

yes sir

On the 16s it seems to help with the warm restart issue too.

that is a carb. issue on a warm restart,its to rich on the bottom and the added air flow from opening the throttle will lean out and help starting the sled. first easy thing to do is turn up the idle a bit, not much this will help but most likely be changing pilots jets and or air jet #..

Team 48-44 on one cut and 46-42 on the other, I say this based on ur weight and riding style. Stock secondary spring, or 140-200 because of ur weight, just to SLow the up shift a touch so you don't suck the belt.

Welcome Rush600

Frett brothers sells them, I don't let out all my secrets... lol .010 is the one you want. You should not get det issues, even in non eth mode, if you do switch to eth mode, will have great throttle response even in eth mode. I have a few guys running them, I tried it first, for two weekends on...

It's not a rush or a switch, but the concept is the same. May have to modify the air intake, the steering on an sks is different.

I'm still working on a project, pump gas , low compression head.

Did you do a compression test when the sled was new with that tester? This would need to be documented at ur dealer and most likely have to have more of a difference side to side. I'm sure there is a tolerance they go by. Something also would need to fail I suspect , don't think wear is a...

I just don't like the old style weights, there to flat. Maybe that has changed I don't now. Last yrs weights were junk

First of all the pipe needs to be hot to work, and at least 8400 on the big end. Buy his covers or wrap it, needs to be done. Buy a pcv and add some timing, or put a .010 offset timing key in it and run it in noneth fuel mode as long as it won't det.If it does just go to eth mode..

Ditch the weights, and primary spring. Helix is good, make sure you have a good map and wrap ur pipe to keep the heat in.

Test 4 is with the stock spring, which is all the 46-42 would need. That spring rate is 76 lbs?.The 155-222 is 53?, way to much spring for cold day, better for warm day as you said. I would switch to the 48-44 ramp and run stock spring should be faster with a 44 on top.And 200 lbs of spring...

There are two angles on his helix. Find out which one has the shallower start, it's very close to a 48-44 I'm sure that will help ur lower rpm off the line. Put the shallower angle in and try it. That's a great spring but not needed if your not running a pipe. Try ur stock spring if it's good

Run a .010 offset timing key, run the 48/44 helix with a new stock spring, and everything else you mention and go..

I never run doubles over the drivers, unless you have big drivers so the track ark won't affect it

i don't agree with the magnet set -up, my choice would be leave the base weight at 3 , drop middle to 1 and leave tip at 2 first. taking out the base weight wont affect the top rpm issue. If it still will not turn rpm I would go 3,0,1.this all with the 48-44 helix ,and put a 120-220 spring in it...

you wont be able to pull the weight you are pulling if you put a 140-220 secondary spring in it..thats a lot of mid weight, but your secondary is helping you right now because of the shift rate on that spring your secondary is shifting slower allowing ur higher rpm..dont mess with it if you like...