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Is the tube damaged? If not, they can be repaired for less than buying a new one.

It still feels like it pulls as hard as it did when new but it has to be off at least a little. I don't trust any compression gauge but if I would have tested it when it was new I would have had a baseline to go by.

800 Rush 2019. I would have bought a new one before this many miles but it came with a 5 year warranty. I'm curious to see if it will make it the full 5 years without a motor.

I put on almost 5,500 miles this year. I've had this machine for 4 winter seasons and have just over 17,000 miles total. Only thing I had to fix (other than normal wear parts and a few bearings) was a exhaust valve, broke off where the blade meets the stem.

I wasn't sure on that one but it makes me nervous when the housing is the ground. That's why I always ground the brown wire also.

The new regulator you have grounds off all the excess voltage, the brown wire on the new regulator is the ground, cut the brown wire near the plug, crimp an eyelet on and put it on the bolt (in the pic) with the other brown wires. Your original regulator grounds off any excess voltage also, the...

Probably just a hose rubbed a hole in it. Get ride of all the snow and you should be able to see it. If you have access to a cooling system pressure tester it makes things a little easier.

There should be what looks like a sheetrock screw where the wire goes inside the coil. Is it missing the screw?

That machine has a waste-fire ignition system, meaning there is only one signal for the coil to spark. Both cylinders fire at the same time every time (twice for every single revolution of the crankshaft) or when one piston is at bottom-dead-center the other at top-dead-center. With spark...

That machine has 2 completely separate charging systems built into the stator, 1 for lights and acc., 1 for ignition. The ignition charging system has it's own internal regulator in the CDI box. The lighting and acc. system has a external regulator that will ground off any excess voltage. Either...

I was a little late to the party as far as getting on a list to get the recall done on my machine and was told January at the earliest but more likely it would be February. I got a call Tuesday saying they had kit for me and could install it on Thursday of this week. I had to ask why that much...

I think you are still only measuring at a point where the cutaways are sitting on the idle screws. One, or more, of the throttle cables could be slack at that point and won't pick it up off the idle screw until well after the other(s).

Heat range on spark plugs won't change how it runs. The only reason to change heat range would be if they are fouling or melting the electrode.

My guess would be the bolt holes in the rail are elongated so they anchored to another point with a old wear-bar. My guess would be; remove the idler wheel mount next to the bolt, cut the wear-bar just short enough so you can spin it around and un-thread it. A fix that's a little "crude" but clever.

Don't spend time on idle quality until you first check carb sync. Remove the air box, push throttle lever until at least one cut-away is exactly flush with the top. Without moving the throttle lever check the other 2 and make sure they are all at the same exact height. Use the adjusters on top...

I'm not sure what I'm looking at, is that a old wear-bar mounted to the rail?

First you should determine one of three things, is it flooding (or leaning) the engine with fuel, is the ignition intermittent, is there a mechanical condition.

You can also look above the primary clutch (in the engine bay) there should be a empty plug with a 12 Volt DC tag on it.

Polaris 12 Volt RCA Plug Outlet 2878475 If you are looking for a standard cigarette lighter style do a google search for that part number, plenty of options to choose from. Check application guides to be sure it fits or go to the Polaris website and enter year and model. Polaris also offers RCA...

What machine are you trying to put it on? Newer stuff, yes. Older stuff, no.