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To much fuel would be the root cause for needing WOT on start. Pull the impulse line from pump to crankcase. The impulse line should be completely dry inside the line, if not, the diaphragm (in the pump) has a hole in it. That's the only way for fuel to enter the engine directly from the pump...

You should bring it back and have them fix it. I'm "pretty sure" if you put it back together exactly the way it came apart with the washers in the same places you can't mess it up. So maybe washers in the wrong places or bearings not seated properly. You should bring the impeller with.

Mine is a 2019, 100-120 would be a good average on normal trails.

I have the 800 Rush. Mine will run from 100 to 150 (38-65 Celsius) depending on outside air temp and snow conditions. Most of the people I ride with have Polaris 800's and 600's, we all run about the same.

Polaris part # for your sled is 3211078 which crosses to a Gates 48C4553. You can replace the C in the part number with a G for the less expensive G-Force belt. Any of the 550 sleds will be fine with the G-Force belt.

You need the right jet needle period, unless you want to R&D the thing for the next ten years. Way to many combinations to chose from. Go to your local hardware store for the orings, nothing special.

I would need center to center (of eyelets) collapsed and extended. It's the only way I can compare in the catalog.

Even if you find a shock that has the same extended and collapsed length the eyelets on the ends of the shock probably won't match up. I have charts that show all the dimensions of the aftermarket shocks we can get, if you can get those dimensions I can probably help.

I'm surprised that you haven't had any response on this thread. Usually oil threads have many opinions on recommended oils. If it has the right rating it's the right oil.

Check all the coolant hoses that go to the water pump and T-stat for rub. If you can see wear on the hose wrap something around it and tape it up to protect it. Some of those hoses are no longer available from Polaris.

It's a M10X1.5-8.8 bolt, standard torque would be 55 NM or 40 ft. lbs.

Hair spray and a heat gun, heat the grip put the hair spray on the bar.

The vent lines attach to the carb location in the picture, then to the two nipples on the front of the airbox above carb inlets.

Pull the fuel lines off the carbs, turn it over and see if you have fuel pumping to that point. Fuel pumping out of the lines = Dirty carbs and/or stuck needle & seat. No fuel pumping out = faulty fuel pump, pick up in tank is off, dirty filter, etc. Take the fuel lines off and check for fuel...

You can thin the buttons to fit but you should do it with a mill. Pretty hard to keep them square doing it by hand and they all need to be the same thickness.

If you have a oil pump leak in the seal facing the motor you wouldn't know, it would leak internally in the engine. Sounds like a connection on a oil line or the grommet in the bottom of the oil tank is leaking.

The shaft is stepped, not sure if that's what your getting stuck on.

What machine is it?

If you have access to a lathe you can make one in a couple minutes out of a piece of thick wall tube. Or, what most people do is use a deep thick wall (impact) socket that fits the outside perimeter of the seal. Put a little silicon on the OD of the seal.

Many of the chassis, body and driveline components were the same as other "Edge" style chassis. Polaris, and others, would put a different motor and graphics on the same chassis and just like magic they have a whole new model. That's a good thing when they get older, parts are plentiful and...