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The original chain you have is 13 wide which is the total number of plates on each pin at the widest point. The chain you bought is probably 11 wide, older version. It would be a good idea to run every part out of the chaincase you bought unless you have the time to look up every piece by part...

If your "blowing out" a Walker Evans your probably going to blow out any of the others also.

Either product will work for what your sealing. The 1217F has a much higher viscosity (thicker) than the 1184. The 1217F is more like any regular silicone that you would squeeze out of a tube. The 1184 is like it says it is, "liquid" gasket. Many builders prefer a thin film of the liquid style...

Sounds like a carb issue and/or fuel contamination.

That machine came with rebuildable Fox shocks. You should have them rebuilt.

As said in your prior post the spring tension from the water pump seal will pull the shaft toward the front of the engine. The reason you won't find the endplay info is; all the parts, shaft, bushings, thrust washers, etc. are all manufactured exactly the same with no adjustment other than...

Any solid yellow wire is hot all the time. You can tap into the yellow wire anywhere on the machine. If your tach has wires (yellow/hot and brown/ground) attached with screws and eyelets on the back of the tach put eyelets on your helmet cord and use the same screws. You eliminate splices that way.

Check every nut and bolt and grease every fitting on the entire machine. If they run good carbs are probably fine. The key word is probably.

Polaris installs the aluminum tunnel protector from the factory. You "might" be able to move them but it would be a pretty big job. I've never seen or heard of anyone moving them. Polaris recommends no more than 1/4"-3/8" penetration (the length of stud beyond the track lug).

From what we see in our shop it's almost always loose bolts. Once the bolts loosen up it keeps pounding on the rail until it looks like the one in the picture. Every machine out there should have all bolts (not just suspension) checked at least every year.

I think you have a big problem. The mounting holes in the aluminum rail for your front torque arm (picture #2) are elongated a ton. If the holes were up where they belong the end of the spring wouldn't hit the bolt, also in picture #2. You ABSOLUTELY need to remedy that before you do anything else.

If it sits for more than a couple weeks in extreme cold you should put a battery "Tender" or automatic charger on it. The charger will stop charging and float when the battery is fully charged. Buy a tender that has a pig tail that bolts to your positive/negative posts on the battery. Pretty...

Should be able to find a XC500SP on the edge chassis (early to mid 2000's) in the $1,000-$1,500 range. Good solid sled, not a bad ride.

I bought a new (holdover 2019) 800 Rush last fall, at about 3,000 miles and towards the end of the season it started cutting out mostly at wide open throttle. Acted like you shut the key off so I'm not sure if it's fuel or ignition related. Slowly got worse over about the last month of riding. I...

Pistons very rarely (maybe never) just plain wearout. In almost every (maybe all) piston failure(s) it's caused by something other than wear on the piston. All of the big 4 have had problems in the past with parts of the engines, including pistons. They were widely publicized, mostly by...

Regulators with yellow and brown wires are a regulator only. Yellow is unregulated power from the stator, brown is a ground. Regulators with yellow, brown and red wires are a combination regulator/rectifier. All of the power from the stator is "AC" voltage. Your battery is "DC" voltage. The red...

The brown wire is a ground but you really don't need it. The mounting bolts of the regulator serve as the ground also. I usually cut the brown wire and crimp an eyelet on the end. Put it on one of your mounting bolts for the regulator. Like I said in the earlier post, the regulator grounds off...

What color wires are on the new reg? The yellow wire is unregulated "AC" voltage into the regulator from the stator, red wire is 12 volt "DC" out to charge the battery. The way those regulators work is they ground off any excess voltage (anything over about 13 volts) so no need for a voltage...

When you get the new jets do a test fit with your best screwdriver. Find a screwdriver that fits perfect across the entire slot on the jet. Flip the carb upside down on the bench and put a fair amount of pressure on the screwdriver so you don't strip the slot on the jet when taking your old ones...

Replace pilot jets in carb. Item #26, Polaris Part# 3130066