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Post a picture of the motor you want to put in it and what year. I think all the "redhead" 700 Liberty motors were the same.

The smaller engines work much harder to keep up. The 550 motors (or any other fan cooled motor) are jetted pretty fat, keeps them cooler on warm days. I have an 800 rush, I ride with many other makes and models, my 800 always takes less fuel than any of the other 500's and 600's, carb or EFI.

I have only used aftermarket rings on 550's. All of my aftermarket sources show only one part number for rings used on all of the 550 motors. I don't have any engine serial number identification info.

Couple things; The cylinders should be honed, never put a set of rings (new or used) in cylinder without honing. Light hone to remove glaze and restore crosshatch without removing any material. Check the ring groove and make sure the ring moves freely. Sometimes when a piston gets hit on the...

Almost every part (except for the tag) is the same for every year of the 550 fan motor. What parts are you looking for?

That code is for the crankcase temp sensor.

Both look to be "about" 2000 model year. Both should have the same (old reliable) 500 Fuji engine. Parts for those sleds are super easy to find. Clean carbs and tanks, get all the old fuel out and try to start them. If your lucky maybe just a new belt. You'll know more once you run them. Get...

Low range light?

The wheels that are part of your shock mount are easier to do with the skid-frame removed unless you have a lift that will get the machine up at eye level. No need to remove the track. If you can see one (or more) bad idler(s) chances are you have more things that need to be done. Not a bad...

For future ref. You can buy genuine Mikuni for about $20.00 each from many independent shops.

I've never found 93 at any average stations in US.

Don't buy cheap crap, buy genuine Mikuni Viton tip needle & seat.

If everything in your carbs is working right (and the jets are right) it won't make any difference what the temp is or the speed you drive it. It may be a little off on power at higher temps but it would never fill the crankcase with gas. The seal system that Polaris uses on that crankshaft is...

First you should verify that all the parts in the carb are the right parts. If they are the right parts it should run (and move) even at summertime temps. So you either have the wrong parts or; chokes need adjusting, sync is way off, needle & seat is leaking or maybe a leaking fuel pump thru...

Dually bars stop most of that.

Sounds like you still have carb issues. 1.) Take the carbs off (without losing any of the fuel in the carb) and drain the fuel in the carbs into a clean glass container to check for water or other contaminantes. 2.) Check choke plunger adjustment. 3.) Pressure test needle & seat.

No matter what you bring you'll never have the right tool.

It could also be a wire shorted to ground. Start the machine, leave it at idle, and unplug the single yellow wire going to the regulator. If the regulator is bad and you go much above idle with the yellow wire unplugged the voltage goes thru the roof and you will burn out bulbs. With yellow...

Not sure. I have a 99 XC 700 in the shop right now and this one has only a single regulator with nothing else mounted near it. What color are the wires going to it? Take a picture of it and post it on here I may be able to tell you what it is.

You need a new regulator. Super easy fix. Down by your right foot behind the panel with a yellow wire attached to it. I have an update regulator kit for that machine. The regulator on that machine (and many others) grounds off anything over 13.0 volts. Yours has failed and is grounding off...