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That left plug looks awfully clean for a sled still in break in mode.

I think you are out of luck on this one, I dont see anything for that specific sled. Considering they are asking $200+ for what rear shocks are available, Partszilla showed $278 for your OEM when it was available, it might be worth contacting Carver or Hygear and see what they would get to make...

From the parts diagram that looks like a rebuildable Fox shock in that sled, post a picture if you can.

I agree with what Mike said on where to start, but your description doesn't make sense. The 2002's didn't have the Ducati igntions anymore, they started switching to Kokusan in 2000 and newer machines that had the Mikuni rack carb setup, by 02 they were all on that setup. You sure thats the...

What about the driveshaft bearing? Did you pull the cover and look at that?

I haven't heard any good things about aftermarket regulators, hell even the factory struggles with them as you've seen by the redesign. That being said, you really need to hunt down a wiring diagram or get a service manual at this point. The newer CFI's have the stator split into dedicated coils...

Aftermarket regulator or factory? There are separate circuits off the stator for critical (ignition) and non-critical (lights & accessories) loads. That's why it runs fine and could possibly be one of the stator circuits failing. Intermittent issues suck to diagnose.

I would also disconnect the negative battery cable while doing this testing to make sure the batterys not putting a strain on the charging system at this point.

Ha, I appreciate the gift card offer but I've gleaned plenty of information off of others on forums like this over the years, so I'm just paying it back now that I'm the knowledgeable one. Yes, thats the CDI on the reservoir, that controls your ignition timing curve. You shouldn't ever have to...

I saw that thread elsewhere, reluctant to bring mine in now :oops:

Thats odd, the stator ohms on that circuit should've been going thru the roof when you first tested it if the connection was going bad.

Ignore the electric start and battery for now, they are a separate circuit from the main electrical system of the sled that is only connected back in to recharge the battery. The sled can run independently of them. You most likely blew the voltage regulator, that controls the stator voltage to...

Hope the position in the wiring harness helps, see below. The parts diagrams show the orientation of the harness to the fuel rail.

Hunt around and see of you can locate a wiring diagram or service manual for that sled. Closest I have is a 2010 Rush but looks like they revamped the electrical system in the newer chassis. Not all that familiar with your chassis but doesnt the blinking mean it sees detonation? Before you get...

I would clean the clutches and definitely replace the springs, those 18yr old ones in there are bagged out by now and likely not giving you full backshift which could be causing excessive heat to the belt.

Voltage regulator is going bad.

Pretty sure all the new RMK's come from the factory with scratchers now that tuck in pretty tight. As far as what to run, thats like asking what brand of oil to use. Find something you like that doesn't stick out too far, the factory Polaris ones might fit on your sled still.

Yes, the accessory circuit is fused, not sure exactly where they are located on that sled. Look in the area around the service plug connections under the hood.

I believe it goes to the fuel pump on those early twins to mix with the fuel.

Just did some checking in the service manual, the ECM is locked not the display. You just have to enter your unlock code and it should be good.