The 11 might be good in 500-600 they just don’t seem to produce top end pull at a farther distance. I’ve used them in the past and lost on the big end.
Right. If somebody can I just wanted them to compare them on bench not spend time testing them. 11s might be a better short distance weight but the 10s are better when you get rolling imo. I’m pretty sure you get better top end with a 10 than an 11. I’m just trying to see if the newer belly...
If someone can compare the newer version belly busters against a polaris 10-76 and 11-76. Or BB 74 against 10-74 and 11-74. Some guys say the old BB were more agressive and some of the lower weight ones are. BUT the 74 and 76. Are same at 10 or 11 series 74 and 76. Curious because the poo...
You didn’t happen to compare the belly busters to magnum force weights while you were at ricks did you ? Ive been toying with the idea of buying a set of those. Just to try.
Could be or it could be very lean in the cruising area and if they drag it down there it could result in det. Anyway I would never discourage anybody from tinkering or making improvements. I will be following your progression. On this.
Could be. Not saying your wrong. I just know the DI. Is more efficient than sdi. Putting it under high pressure on top of piston probably works better than shooting it into a transfer port. Personally I dont like either one. I want the fuel in the t-bodies. But that’s a different thread.
Idk. They are lean in that cruising area of the mapping. I think it has more to do with the sdi as opposed to the DI. In years gone by. I would get 10 on my 800ho. And get maybe 11 on the 800 doo both 2016 sleds
Fake news. You didn’t happen to hear this from a guy with a yellow or green sled did ya ? Lol. There was some issues in 19 that were addressed and 20s were very solid. There was a assembly snafu and a potential mistep in design of crank to case alignment in 19. I don’t personally know anybody...
I understand that these are nit as good as rail mounted etc. but for someone like me who rarely if ever actually needs scratchers. It’s a decent oh shit option
I have actually seen the use the Homeade bolt one on a lake. And it worked. I can’t remember exactly where I saw it but was easy to find on a search. A mount that was easy to put on and take off lower arm. That you could put a duratkex scratcher on. And there is another kind that is like a piece...
Most likely if you didn’t feel you needed them on a viper you shouldn’t need them on a matrix. 4strokes put off a lot of heat. I find that my axys (tunnel ) cools better than my buddies doo or cats. So if you need them then they all need them. Again if you didn’t need them before you shouldn’t...
Try running it at 8150 my sled likes a bit more rpm. Than dynos say it would. Backed up by et. And mph. My personal sled and buddies are not happy at 7900.
When. You set the plunger you need to make sure it bottoms out. With the plunger in the carb hole the fitting should be a lil bit proud of the threads. You should have to slightly push down on it to start it on threads to screw them in. Obviously when the flipper is pulled up they should come...
I’m gonna try the new heavier magnum force see what I can get out of those and then maybe try a set of dalton. Ive had really good luck with dalton fixed weights. So I’ve been meaning to try thier adjustables.
Sorry. Utica area. Polaris dealers - sports unlimited in Utica - cycle shack in Rome - schoff polaris -Rome there are also a few others within a 30 minute circle of Utica. I’m having a brain fart on thier names. Cycle shack is hard to beat if pricing is your thing. They negotiate . Sports...
Probably cheaper to order. Camso (camelplast ) also does a trade deal . They take your new unused track on trade for whatever you want to get. And you pay the difference or something like that
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