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I don't own one myself but have rode with a few people that own them. The Ski-Doo will always get better mileage and be quieter in 4 strokes. I ride with many Ski-Doo owners and the 2 strokes always use less fuel also. All of the people I ride with are happy with the overall performance and...

At the bottom of the crankcase on the front side of motor. Usually 10 MM head on the bolt directly inline with exhaust ports above. They all have a sealing washer on the bolt that sometimes will stick to the case, don't loose it. If you are filling the case with fuel you probably have a needle &...

Do you have the right tool for installing the outer seal? If you have coolant leaking from the weep hole it's always the outer seal behind the impeller.

You should use the compression numbers for comparative readings and not so much the number itself for reasons already mentioned. I have a 2019 800 Rush with over 17,000 miles on it and still runs great. I don't care what the compression numbers are, they won't tell you much. The only engine...

I called a dealer and was told that all the 2025 models have the update done before they leave the factory, turns out the fix that's done before they leave the factory is only the sticker on the tank. Any body get their 4 free bottles of anti-static fuel treatment?

From what I hear Polaris already has a solution, buy a 2025 model machine. Are the 2025's not affected by all of this? If they aren't then we should all get the same stuff they put in the 2025's and be done with it.

So now we have a recall for the recall. Makes perfect sense to me, hahaha. I don't know about other states but in Wisconsin and Minnesota the highest octane is 91 and is "without" ethanol.

The head has 6 bolts (studs with nuts & washers) mounting it to the cylinder. The cylinder has 4 bolts (again, studs with nuts & washers) mounting it to the crankcase. The compression numbers are worthless unless they don't match, obviously yours don't match. If you are trying to remove the...

Polaris, or any other manufacturer, cannot void a warranty based on what oil you use as long as it has the required ratings.

Use what Polaris recommends. Usually API or JASO. If it has the right rating it's the right oil for your machine. Things you want to consider when buying oil (providing you meet the ratings). Petroleum based oils have a limited pour point when it gets cold. Semi-Synthetic oils have no standard...

Have the needle & seat pressure tested. Check choke adjustment. If the cylinder that is wet is the cylinder the impulse line for the fuel pump hooks up to check the fuel pump diaphragm for holes.

Should have replaced pilot jet (#35), main jet (#150) and needle & seat (viton tip). It's important to sync carbs when installed.

Most of the time we cut the bolts to start with, pretty rare they come apart easy. Youtube the carb recon also, it's a pretty easy process. Don't waste money on carb kits, most often cleaning, needle & seat and a couple jets is all you need. I'm pretty sure we have done those carbs without...

Most people remove the seat and fuel tank and slide the airbox rearward off the carbs. Usually have some rusty bolts holding the seat and tank on so you will need to cut them and replace with new when you assemble it.

Unburned fuel will wash and mix with carbon in the porting and pipe. When that happens it turns into, and appears to be, a oily mess. You should check and make sure that's not happening.

How do you know it is using too much oil? Just curious how you tested that.

The TC-W3 (often called TC rating) is the rating you are looking for. If you find any oil that is TC, API or JASO rated it's the right oil if it's Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic or Full Synthetic. You are lubricating ball bearings and a piston moving up and down in a cylinder bore just like we do on...

I've looked at all our sources and can't find a rebuild kit for that starter but......................there's a company called NICHE Industries that sells a complete (new) starter for $59.95. Pretty cheap so you would want to question the quality but for $59.95 it might be worth a try. We sell...

Shaft - Approx. $50.00, Seal Head - $50-$60.00, Labor to rebuild (includes oil) - $35.00. Hard to tell if you need any of the parts listed. Possible it could be fixed for about $55.00. Standard rebuild ($35.00) plus a seal kit ($20.00).

As long as it has the correct rating buy whatever flavor you like.