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I doubt there is a problem with the pump itself. The dirty connector was your main problem, umplugging it broke enough of the corrosion to get some contact when you reconnected it. Good enough for a get out of the woods fix, cleaning it & grease will prevent it from happening again. The pump...

Clean the connector contacts in that pump wiring harness really good with some DeoxIT or contact cleaner, put some dielectric grease in there and run it. That pump connection is known to corrode from water getting in there.

On second look it may only be for the RMK Khaos, not the slash tunnel.

Hey, not sure how this worked out, but I found they make a full length snowflap for your machine in the accessory catalog. See the link. https://www.polaris.com/en-us/snowmobiles/shop-parts/2208/2208364/

They show a different snowflap in the online accessories but I'm not sure how much longer it is https://www.polaris.com/en-us/snowmobiles/shop-parts/2208/2208364/

Just the opposite here. The only way to get anything without ethanol is to buy 95 octane Race gas at $12+ a gallon. Some stations in NY, VT, NH & ME have non eth 91 but you have to hunt for them. Ironic considering all the ethanol plants are out in the midwest...

See the press release... https://www.polaris.com/en-us/recalls/off-road/polaris-recalls-some-model-year-2021-2024-matryx-and-2015-2023-axys-snowmobiles/

Sorry, read that quickly earlier and thought you were responding to the OPs situation. What was the coolest engine temp you saw during the day once you hit snow? I hate to say it but I think the shorter slash tunnel & flap may not have been a good choice considering you have to travel a mile of...

The Matryx chassis RMK sleds have a completely redesigned cooling system from the AXYS sleds with the coolers more centrally located towards the front of the tunnel & the front bulkhead cooler now so they could do the 'slash' tunnel cut. Its going to act completely different from the sled he is...

Voltage regulator is bad, same symptoms I had when the one blew in my 2000. Spend the money for the OEM Polaris one, the aftermarket units are not very reliable.

Tell him to blow that thing out before he cooks the motor continually running it that hot. Get into a SKS or Assault, the only real difference is the front suspension. The SKS has the narrower mountain setup and the Assault has the standard trail setup.

Yes, very much so. Its called a Rocky Mountain King and not a UPer Special for a reason, because thats where it belongs, especially a PRO. It needs a ton of powder blowing around to cool off that tunnel. Most RMK's, including his PRO, only have heat exchangers running the length of the tunnel to...

Never hurts to double check but I'd be surprised if there's a problem. Shutting off the fuel when its going to sit for a long period would also help to prevent the tank from losing the prime. Wouldnt hurt to dose it with some SeaFoam or K100 to clean up any gunk that may have formed from sitting...

I honestly wouldn't bother, that sleds too new to have line rot issues. The majority of those problems are with sleds that were built before ethanol became mainstream in the mid 2000s and the lines disintegrate from not being compatible. Any carb machine is a pain to get reprimed when the system...

That is a good start, a fully charged battery is 12.7 volts so anything above that means the system is charging. Don't be surprised if it cuts out charging at low idle when you meter it. They usually cut off charging & non-essential loads until the stator gets more RPM. Be interesting to see...

In tank mechanical gauge or electric on the dash? The fuel line has a weighted pickup at the end and enough length to reach the tank bottom.

Hmm, usually if the reeds are going it'll soak the airbox pretty good, so hard to condemn them just yet. Plus looking back at your post last year, they didn't look half bad. You spoke of top end issues with the sled in posts last year, did you ever get it sorted out then? Have the clutches been...

So I don't know much about those early 4S models but I do know they had a much different electrical system than the 2-stroke sleds of that era. Hard to say for sure without an electrical diagram but I'm guessing the stator output is split into different independent circuits, one to run the sled...

Is it spitting back excessively into the airbox after its been ridden a while?

Assuming the choke cable freeplay is correct and they aren't leaking, what are the air screws set to? I think factory is 2 turns out. Also have the reeds ever been replaced? Given their age they could be getting weak.