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Ya I’ve seen that posting. I reject that idea. As a lot of the build up is above the valves which is why they can be very hard to get out. I also don’t believe for a second the engineer design it to get dirty to cushion valves vibration. I think the poster has read it in manual that cleaning...

Make a thread about it and try and post a picture. And we will see how to fix it up.

Right unless your looking for a work sled. Don’t get the titan.

If it’s way to rich it will keep it from revving proper rpm. BUT generally rpm is controlled by clutching. And is where I would look to adjust rpm

Ya people from out of state are calling local dealers trying to get thier hands on boost

Pdp. Long flap. With single center strap. Works perfect. I fought with those stock flaps since 19. Finally had enough. (Proven design products. ) nutvand bolt it on with stainless fasteners with small shims in center two holes. Have to drill 2 holes in flap to match tunnel. Rode 1000 ish miles...

I switched it out at 1700 miles. Made it a spare.

I’m betting your running out of gear. That’s the cutting out. If your crusing at 10mph and go wot. What’s the rpm a 100 ft later ? If it’s more than 8150 or so. You need to add weight. You could also gear it higher but if you are an off trail guy you may hurt your off trail performance doin...

I have 3 within 25 minutes of me. I have a good relationship with all of them. I buy parts etc from them all. One I don’t buy sleds from because his prices just dont work for me. The second I buy more parts from and would buy a sled from because they offer me great pricing on sleds and parts...

I would find out if the newest drivers (the plastic drive wheels ) are the same pitch /tooth amount. As the ones on sleds with vibrations. If that is a yes then I would look at the driveshaft itself and see if that is the same. If it is I would press the old drivers off and press new drivers on...

Yup. I had one. They pull over like a truck. Keep an eye on your recoil rope.

Just grease them. It’s not hard. Pull clutch off. Pull dust cover off bearing being careful not to trash or bend it up. I worked mine out easily with a lil pick. Packed grease in there .carefully installed cover back on and into groove. Yes it should have a fitting but it doesn’t. So don’t just...

Could very well have been the relay keeping the valves closed. But that shouldn’t cause a rich condition at idle. UNLESS air was loaded with fuel from riding with valves not open. I’ve seen this when coming to a stop . Valves not opening should have also been causing major rpm issues.

Tps. Barometric pressure. No 02 sensor stock on sled. Pipe temp sensor is in body of pipe. And is used for fueling adjustments. How is the compression ? Low compression would cause a rich condition. As the suck is reduced and the fuel flow is the same.

On a carb 2 stroke ? Yes. On a Sdi 2 stroke ? I’m not 100 percent sure. It would really would mess with idle etc. if a reed is broken in therory it would blow some intake charge back out into the air box as the piston strokes but not all and then a carb would introduce even more fuel. I honestly...

Maybe broken reed ?

Yes timing. I always ran them on premium with 91 or 93. I think the other setting was for around 87. But not 100 percent on that.

If it has polaris weights in it. They could be 10-68 or 11-68 for example. Try 11 series is a bit more agressive on bottom than the 10 series. But the 10s generally pull better mph out the back door

The first thing I would do would be to pull the clutches and varify what’s in them. Yes stock helix was 58/44.36. I would look and see what’s in it for weight. Make sure it’s a 10 and not 11 weight. 11 may be quicker in short run but usually fall off on top end. Make sure the weight tips are not...

I was just gonna say. Put your other sleds clutches on it and see what it does. Or put the clutching back to stock and see what happens . What is the clutching now. And what is included in the kit. Why do you feel it needs a 50/50 blend.? Did you raise the compression ?