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13.5 degree straight angle primary axys 800

B

Brock

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,044
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
30+
Snowmobile
Polaris
I've posted some of this in other threads about the axys 13.5 degree straight angle.

The problem I see as polaris changed to this straight angle is on the "S" models mostly.Belt heat,slippage and rpm loss/drop.

The sheave face angle of the 13.5 degree straight up-shifts quicker then the multi-angle polaris has used in the past. It's not as trail friendly with most of today's riders as the multi-angle in my opinion. Add the quicker up-shift,light primary fly weights,belt compounds,and the 1.61 ratio combining with all this in the "S" package. It has a tendency to be more inconsistent with all these combinations. Meaning hi-heat in primary,belt slippage,constant belt residue,and primary heat 20+ degrees over secondary usually.Add the 1.61 tall gear ratio to this like I've said,and it can be inconsistent. All this can cause rpm loss/drop.

A solution to this can be switching the primary sheave face angle back to the multi-angle,having different belt compounds, and installing a gear ratio in the 1.7's on all S models.Adding 4 grams more weight to help pinch belt better creating less heat and a more consistent set up.This is just my opinion and the way I see it.

The straight angle is better for drag racing.

The mutli-angle is better for the everyday average trail rider.


Since there is a low % of people who mess with clutching to drag race and just want to turn the key and ride. I would choose a more trail friendly version as I've mentioned.
 
Brock said:
I've posted some of this in other threads about the axys 13.5 degree straight angle.

The problem I see as polaris changed to this straight angle is on the "S" models mostly.Belt heat,slippage and rpm loss/drop.

The sheave face angle of the 13.5 degree straight up-shifts quicker then the multi-angle polaris has used in the past. It's not as trail friendly with most of today's riders as the multi-angle in my opinion. Add the quicker up-shift,light primary fly weights,belt compounds,and the 1.61 ratio combining with all this in the "S" package. It has a tendency to be more inconsistent with all these combinations. Meaning hi-heat in primary,belt slippage,constant belt residue,and primary heat 20+ degrees over secondary usually.Add the 1.61 tall gear ratio to this like I've said,and it can be inconsistent. All this can cause rpm loss/drop.

A solution to this can be switching the primary sheave face angle back to the multi-angle,having different belt compounds, and installing a gear ratio in the 1.7's on all S models.This is just my opinion and the way I see it.

The straight angle is better for drag racing.

The mutli-angle is better for the everyday average trail rider.


Since there is a low % of people who mess with clutching to drag race and just want to turn the key and ride. I would choose a more trail friendly version as I've mentioned.
Click to expand...
Have you or anyone found out yet what Indy Dan cuts the face to? Have you recut yours?
 
racerdave said:
Have you or anyone found out yet what Indy Dan cuts the face to? Have you recut yours?
Click to expand...
Yes, he just takes a skim coat off to make sure it's perfect,takes out any imperfections. Leaves same angle.

He does machine spider too. Tucking weights.
 
Tucking is higher engagement. No need for that on the AXYS8 IMHO. Also unless there is a way of cutting the spyder I am not aware of, cutting it has to involve changing belt clearance, which is good.
 
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racerdave said:
Tucking is higher engagement. No need for that on the AXYS8 IMHO. Also unless there is a way of cutting the spyder I am not aware of, cutting it has to involve changing belt clearance, which is good.
Click to expand...
He'll do anything you want if you tell him.
Yes, correct, machining spider just adjusts belt to sheave clearance. Less spacers needed then .

Tucking weights can be done with just buying different profiles of weights like, cats,heavy hitters,or old belly busters. All different heels that effects were the roller sits. That's another subject,lol.

Anyways, from what I know about Indy Dan clutch balancing is:
Machine clutch faces perfect
balance each part individually
balance weights using

this allows you to put it back together anyway you want without worrying about it being out of balance.
$200.00

Add more if your clutch needs a rebuild.

The plus I see about his way vs others is machining clutch faces for imperfections and individual balancing.
But ,others do balancing for $75.00.

The way I see it is. If you adjust your belt to sheave with weights ,and send off to get balanced, the $75.00 balancing is best for everyday average trail riders.

If you tinker with different weights all the time and adjusting belt to sheave for different belts, then the Indy Dan $200.00 balancing is better.
 
I like the individual balancing even if I never reshim the clutch again after the first time. Many places won't/can't do it that way.
 
I talked to Indy Dan about this the other day. He said there is no difference between the 2015 to 2016 that he had observed.
 
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