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84 polaris 440 indy trail

2

2strkesmke

New Member
Messages
10
Age
30
Location
Indiana
I got a 84 polaris 440 indy trail, I put on a set of rebuilt carbs, new recoil spring, all new fuel line, cleaned the gas tank, new plugs, has a newish cdi. After I put the carbs on I fired it up, let it warm up, then once I gave it a little gas it stalled, but fired back up, I'm guessing the carbs need adjusted. Now I got another problem, I have no spark on the left side cylinder. I have great spark on the right side. What could be the problem.
 
Wiring,ignition coil.
Check all connections.
 
I'll check the connections tomarrow. Is it possible snow got into a connection, melted, and caused a short?
 
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If you have good spark on one side, it is likely the coil. check it with an ohmmeter. both should be the same. is the CDI off a good running engine, or a new Poo or aftermarket one?
 
Did you put the old spark plug boots on it? Also make sure the conductor on the boot is making contact with the center wire on the spark plug lead. Why did you replace the CDI in the first place, and is it doing the same thing it did before the new CDI? I assume you bought one of the Kimpex replacements. I don't know if they're reliable or not.
 
I don't know if it has the old boots on it or not, when I Bought it a few years back the guy said it lost spark on both sides. I have since trimmed the wires to ensure a good connection. I don't know the brand at the moment I'll let you know
 
That's hardly a confidence-inspiring name for a company! I don't know who makes them for Polaris, though. Might even be the same people. Darn outsourcing. I'd bet that a lot of sleds had that same coil/CDI. Too bad the Polaris parts site only goes back to 1985. Might want to ask around or call some sled salvage guys for a unit from a good runner.
 
Ok I switched the plug boots around and now both sides got spark. But now it won't fire. I tryed spraying ether in it and still nothing. It's getting plenty of fuel ( but not enough to flood), got spark, and has plentry of compression.
 
Under the exhaust manifold in the front of the engine.
 
Thanks. I drained it and it fired up first pull. What way do I turn the idle screw to turn rpms down,seems like its idling high, around 1200rpm
 
1,200 Is actually too low. Should be 1,500- 1,800 or so.
clockwise speeds up rpm, counterclockwise slows it down.
 
1200 is low? Seemed real loud, or maybe my exhaust is $hit, and is playing tricks on me. I'll turn it up tomarow. Stupid question, but why did the excess fuel go into the crankcase?
 
Either the needle valve/ seats in the carburetors are leaking down or the fuel pump diaphragm is leaking fuel into the impulse line going to the crankcase.
 
These old fanner engines are generally pretty noisy. If you haven't dealt with the flooding issue, it's a good idea to shut the fuel valve while the engine is running, let it run for a few seconds, then shut it off with the kill switch. That should keep your case from filling up with fuel. Not a permanent solution. Another nice thing to do if your case floods is to get some oil in the crank bearings by squirting it down the transfer ports of both cylinders. Otherwise, those bearings only have fuel in them, which isn't good.
 
minirips2 said:
These old fanner engines are generally pretty noisy. If you haven't dealt with the flooding issue, it's a good idea to shut the fuel valve while the engine is running, let it run for a few seconds, then shut it off with the kill switch. That should keep your case from filling up with fuel. Not a permanent solution. Another nice thing to do if your case floods is to get some oil in the crank bearings by squirting it down the transfer ports of both cylinders. Otherwise, those bearings only have fuel in them, which isn't good.
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This motor don't have a fan, should it? Also is it possible that the fuel getting into the crankcase is due to bad rings?
 
Sorry. I thought you had a 440 fan cooled Fuji motor. I've got one in my 95 440 Sport Touring Indy. Check Rabbi's post about the needle valve seats. That's what made my XCR flood, even though they looked good. Also make sure the seats and gaskets are in place and tight. I put a dab of blue Loctite on the seat threads to help seal them. Haven't had an issue since. If you do replace the needles/seats, get the Viton (rubber) tipped needles. Way better sealing than the all metal needles. Check float levels after you replace these parts, as it may change.
 
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