Dusty Nauman
New Member
I had a track go bad on 2017 Pro RMK. I plan on changing the track and drivers myself, I just wanted to know if anyone has a video, procedure or tips to help me with the change out.
Thanks
Thanks
Changing out track and drivers
- Thread starter Dusty Nauman
- Start date
OutCast
Active Member
It's quite a process and if you haven't done it before, it would be good to have someone help who has done a track swap before.
Take Muffler off- A spring puller is very helpful for removing the springs.
Loosen bolt on the brake rotor-hold brake lever to stop the rotor from spinning.
Remove brake caliber bolts-lay caliber off to the side possibly on the engine bay beside the Airbox.
Remove brake rotor. Remove collar on the shaft-will need a pair of Channell lock pliers to get a grip on it and pull off- put a rag around it to avoid damage to the collar.
Next there's a rubber Oring behind that collar- use a small screw driver or pik to get it out. Be careful not to rip it as you need to reuse it.
Loosen off the ChainCase filler plug but be careful not to strip it as it stripe real easy. (I do it early in the job just so it's out and I remember to add oil at the end of the completed project)
Drain ChainCase oil-You can use a vacuum pump or under the belly own there are 2 torque head bolts holding the plastic belly pan in place-remove these.
Remove 5 bolts holding chain case cover on. Pull the ChainCase out about 1-1.5" so you can get a grip on it. Then push down on the belly pan, and rotate the bottom of the ChainCase cover towards the front of the sled. It's a PITA but it has to come out.
Once it's clear, slide it out towards you. Remove the collar on the shaft.
Break loose the bolt holding the bottom gear on-I usually just smack the ratchet with a hammer because the track Is going to want to spin, and the quick smack will break it free.
Slide top and bottom gear out with the chain still in place.
Now go to the clutch side-remove the secondary clutch, and then there's 5 torx head bolts holding the bearing cup in pace, remove those bolts.
Put the rear end on a stand or strap from the roof to hold it from falling when you take the slid bolts out. Now remove all 4 bolts holding the skid In The chassis. Now let the sled down easy and the. Tip on its left side-make sure the oil cap is good and tight.
Pull the back end of the skid onto the garage floor. Lift the skid out if the track and then take out the drive shaft. I like to tip the sled on its side to remove the skid.
Be careful and mindful of where all spacers and bolts go back into the proper place.
Now reverse direction and install new parts!
Take Muffler off- A spring puller is very helpful for removing the springs.
Loosen bolt on the brake rotor-hold brake lever to stop the rotor from spinning.
Remove brake caliber bolts-lay caliber off to the side possibly on the engine bay beside the Airbox.
Remove brake rotor. Remove collar on the shaft-will need a pair of Channell lock pliers to get a grip on it and pull off- put a rag around it to avoid damage to the collar.
Next there's a rubber Oring behind that collar- use a small screw driver or pik to get it out. Be careful not to rip it as you need to reuse it.
Loosen off the ChainCase filler plug but be careful not to strip it as it stripe real easy. (I do it early in the job just so it's out and I remember to add oil at the end of the completed project)
Drain ChainCase oil-You can use a vacuum pump or under the belly own there are 2 torque head bolts holding the plastic belly pan in place-remove these.
Remove 5 bolts holding chain case cover on. Pull the ChainCase out about 1-1.5" so you can get a grip on it. Then push down on the belly pan, and rotate the bottom of the ChainCase cover towards the front of the sled. It's a PITA but it has to come out.
Once it's clear, slide it out towards you. Remove the collar on the shaft.
Break loose the bolt holding the bottom gear on-I usually just smack the ratchet with a hammer because the track Is going to want to spin, and the quick smack will break it free.
Slide top and bottom gear out with the chain still in place.
Now go to the clutch side-remove the secondary clutch, and then there's 5 torx head bolts holding the bearing cup in pace, remove those bolts.
Put the rear end on a stand or strap from the roof to hold it from falling when you take the slid bolts out. Now remove all 4 bolts holding the skid In The chassis. Now let the sled down easy and the. Tip on its left side-make sure the oil cap is good and tight.
Pull the back end of the skid onto the garage floor. Lift the skid out if the track and then take out the drive shaft. I like to tip the sled on its side to remove the skid.
Be careful and mindful of where all spacers and bolts go back into the proper place.
Now reverse direction and install new parts!