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Primary Clutch ``blueprinting``

skpopoman

New Member
Messages
7
Location
SK
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
30
Snowmobile
2017 Assault SB 2017 Pro s SB
Hello all, long time member first time poster.
I have some questions about primary clutch clearances and making adjustments to them.
Its to my understanding that the belt to sheave clearance has got better in 2016-2017(?)
1. Is there still enough shims left to remove under the outer sheave to get the side clearance down to under .020"?
If there is not enough shims to remove how do you bring the clearance down more? Machining? What do you machine?
2. The infamous spider nut that rubs the primary spring... What can be done about this? Can a guy just carefully bevel to edge down to get rid of the contact?
3. Button to tower clearance. What is ideal and how can you tighten them up if they are too loose?
4. What is the torque on the spider and the spider nut?

Don't flame me if I have asked questions that can be answered from the service manual as I do not have one yet.
I have a 17 Pro S switch and 17 Assault switch and would like to get both primarys 'tightened' up and was hoping to only tear them down once before getting them balanced.
Thanks in advance.
 
There are shims to put behind the spider buttons. I like to keep button clearance around .005. You can go tighter but heat soaking can cause binding.
The correct thickness on those button shim boxes should be .002 .005 .010
SDC11045.JPG
 
Last edited:
Hello all, long time member first time poster.
I have some questions about primary clutch clearances and making adjustments to them.
Its to my understanding that the belt to sheave clearance has got better in 2016-2017(?)
1. Is there still enough shims left to remove under the outer sheave to get the side clearance down to under .020"?
If there is not enough shims to remove how do you bring the clearance down more? Machining? What do you machine?
2. The infamous spider nut that rubs the primary spring... What can be done about this? Can a guy just carefully bevel to edge down to get rid of the contact?
3. Button to tower clearance. What is ideal and how can you tighten them up if they are too loose?
4. What is the torque on the spider and the spider nut?

Don't flame me if I have asked questions that can be answered from the service manual as I do not have one yet.
I have a 17 Pro S switch and 17 Assault switch and would like to get both primarys 'tightened' up and was hoping to only tear them down once before getting them balanced.
Thanks in advance.
 
manual calls for .001 to .002 clearance between buttons and tower.I have .006 on mine and the clutch rattles,if I temperlaraly stick a .006 shim between the button and tower the rattling stops.I would go .002,you only shim the button on the trailing side.there is pressure on only 3 of the 6 buttons
 
Took 1 of the 2 clutches apart today. 3 Shims under spider totaling .140". Managed to get belt to sheave clearance to .011". Was happy to see that as a few years ago the last couple I took apart there was only 1 shim and removing it completely did not get the belt to sheave clearance under .020"...
Button to tower clearance is less then .005". Smallest feeler i had was .005" and it wasn't going in there.
Did abit of an experiment too. Beveled the top edge of the spider nut just past the notches for the socket. Painted nut to monitor contact.

Another question. With the primary closed, ideally how much of the belt should be out of the sheaves?
 
Ideally the belt should be almost showing the cord of the belt with primary closed fully and new belt in. You will never see this as the polaris clutch is made for a 1:1 ratio and not much over drive. You have to machine the clutch to get it to close further for more over drive most times.

Spider to tower, I like it no more then 0.004",and the same on all.
 


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