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So now we have a recall for the recall. Makes perfect sense to me, hahaha. I don't know about other states but in Wisconsin and Minnesota the highest octane is 91 and is "without" ethanol.
The head has 6 bolts (studs with nuts & washers) mounting it to the cylinder. The cylinder has 4 bolts (again, studs with nuts & washers) mounting it to the crankcase. The compression numbers are worthless unless they don't match, obviously yours don't match. If you are trying to remove the...
Use what Polaris recommends. Usually API or JASO. If it has the right rating it's the right oil for your machine. Things you want to consider when buying oil (providing you meet the ratings). Petroleum based oils have a limited pour point when it gets cold. Semi-Synthetic oils have no standard...
Have the needle & seat pressure tested. Check choke adjustment. If the cylinder that is wet is the cylinder the impulse line for the fuel pump hooks up to check the fuel pump diaphragm for holes.
Most of the time we cut the bolts to start with, pretty rare they come apart easy. Youtube the carb recon also, it's a pretty easy process. Don't waste money on carb kits, most often cleaning, needle & seat and a couple jets is all you need. I'm pretty sure we have done those carbs without...
Most people remove the seat and fuel tank and slide the airbox rearward off the carbs. Usually have some rusty bolts holding the seat and tank on so you will need to cut them and replace with new when you assemble it.
Unburned fuel will wash and mix with carbon in the porting and pipe. When that happens it turns into, and appears to be, a oily mess. You should check and make sure that's not happening.
The TC-W3 (often called TC rating) is the rating you are looking for. If you find any oil that is TC, API or JASO rated it's the right oil if it's Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic or Full Synthetic. You are lubricating ball bearings and a piston moving up and down in a cylinder bore just like we do on...
I've looked at all our sources and can't find a rebuild kit for that starter but......................there's a company called NICHE Industries that sells a complete (new) starter for $59.95. Pretty cheap so you would want to question the quality but for $59.95 it might be worth a try. We sell...
Shaft - Approx. $50.00, Seal Head - $50-$60.00, Labor to rebuild (includes oil) - $35.00. Hard to tell if you need any of the parts listed.
Possible it could be fixed for about $55.00. Standard rebuild ($35.00) plus a seal kit ($20.00).
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