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You have to concentrate on #6 on that list and fix the 6 volts, the capactior needs 12v from the sled in order to charge correctly. Reverse wont work without the capacitor since thats what holds the charge to keep everything alive while the motor is powering down. Also the drain of the capacitor...

There isn't a real good way, I had one of those hand pump suction fluid extractors (like below) that I used on my Pro R but its a pain to get down into the lower parts of the system still. Also it is a pain in the ass to get the system bled fully, hopefully the AXYS is easier than the pro-ride was.

I'd stick to a high quality synthetic myself vs Polaris Blue just for the much improved fluidity of the oil during a cold start, especially in your climate. Most wear happens when engines are cold, been running my 00 700 on synthetic since right after break in when it was new, no regrets. Thats...

Its possible one of the magnets lost charge, I've heard of this happening before especially in old generators that have sat long periods, and having to re-excite them.

Interesting, wonder if this caused by the magnesium shortage that was going on a year ago.

Everything looked good with the impulse line, not sucking any air there? Carb boots torn?

Did they ever say what caused it to fail? Like I said above, that good plug looks awfully clean for a sled still geting extra break in oil. Both of you need to check the oil line at the reservoir when you get your machines back, the fitting they are using on the oil tanks now is notorious for...

Did you put a new needle and seat in the carbs?

This is all you are going to get from the factory, what was being said in the discussion?

There is a hose barb the fuel supply line connects to around 3/4 up the fuel tank. It is sealed by a rubber grommet the barb pushes thru. That could be failing and be leaking. There is also the tank vent at the top of the tank that has a vent hose that runs up the steering shaft. Like I said...

Could only be weeping until the vibration of the machine makes it worse, or its on the pressure side of the fuel pump. This is one you where are going to have to pull the airbox out of the way and start looking. If its still the original fuel lines, I can guarantee thats whats failing as they...

Yeah not sure what he was thinking, all those seals take a set & fail after a while from the crappy gas these days. Did the dealer recommend him or just tell you he is someone who will work on older stuff? I know they avoid older iron like the plague for fear of running up a bill more than the...

Probably a leaking fuel line somewhere. The ethanol gas eats the lines in the older machines and turns them hard and brittle, they then crack and leak.

Wouldn't hurt to pull the spark plugs and shoot some in thru the carb boots while pulling it over since you are pulling the carbs again anyway. It'll get pushed up into the cylinders while you are pulling it over so I wouldn't worry about putting some down the plug holes this time

I doubt its the cap in your case since it does it while already running, but test it anyway. More likely a stator or regulator issue.

First off, the kill switch should be off when pulling it over with the plug wire off. Can possibly damage the coils otherwise. Given all the stator issues popping up lately, I'd start there. Sounds like something is getting hot in the electrical system and quitting. here is a link to the stator...

Have you tried kicking the coupler blocks down a notch?

Not sure about that vintage but the newer stuff gets cranky if the TPS is out of adjustment, does the same thing. Good place to start.

You are probably going to have to check the snowest forums on that one, alot more RMK guys on there. Trail sled bulkhead is different.

That'll allow the front skid to drop more and lighten up your ski pressure, why do you want to do it?