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2001 Indy 340 - need carb removal process

J

johnny777

New Member
Messages
7
Age
62
Location
Saskatchewan
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
30
Snowmobile
Indy 340 and Indy 440
2001 Indy 340. model S00LD3AS

Good day, I have a 2000 Indy 340 that is bogging when I accelerate. If I baby it, once it gets to a certain rev, it runs just fine. It’s been many years since anything has been done to this machine but now I believe it’s time to pull the carbs and clean them and replace anything that may need to be replaced.

My issue, I don’t know where to start to taking them out. The airbox is right there and doesn’t move enough for me to get the carbs out. Is there a special way to getting them out? Is there a youtube video that you may know of that will help me with this?
 
Most people remove the seat and fuel tank and slide the airbox rearward off the carbs. Usually have some rusty bolts holding the seat and tank on so you will need to cut them and replace with new when you assemble it.
 
ok, thanks for that information. I did catch a youtube video on that process and figured there 'must' be a better way. It may be something that I don't want to tackle myself. I still have to deal with the carbs once I have access to them and that will be another learning experience, even though I have worked extensively with small engine carbs (mowers and weed eaters etc). I see lots going wrong because there are two of them.
 
johnny777 said:
ok, thanks for that information. I did catch a youtube video on that process and figured there 'must' be a better way. It may be something that I don't want to tackle myself. I still have to deal with the carbs once I have access to them and that will be another learning experience, even though I have worked extensively with small engine carbs (mowers and weed eaters etc). I see lots going wrong because there are two of them.
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Most of the time we cut the bolts to start with, pretty rare they come apart easy. Youtube the carb recon also, it's a pretty easy process. Don't waste money on carb kits, most often cleaning, needle & seat and a couple jets is all you need. I'm pretty sure we have done those carbs without removing the seat and tank, if the rubber parts are still soft (they get pretty hard and won't flex over time) you can push the carbs back into the air box, turn it sideways and get them out.
 
Mike-DRH said:
Most of the time we cut the bolts to start with, pretty rare they come apart easy. Youtube the carb recon also, it's a pretty easy process. Don't waste money on carb kits, most often cleaning, needle & seat and a couple jets is all you need. I'm pretty sure we have done those carbs without removing the seat and tank, if the rubber parts are still soft (they get pretty hard and won't flex over time) you can push the carbs back into the air box, turn it sideways and get them out.
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thanks for that information. I will see if I can do just that instead of seat and tank removal.
 
Back again, I was able to take the seat and tank off without issues. the three bolts that hold the gas tank in have a one way flat holder so the bolts don't drop through the tunnel so that was nice to see. Tank out, air filter spring disconnected and moved back, I was able to take the carbs out.
I did a no no, I let the gas go bad and while working on the carbs, they both smelled like var-sol. I took them apart, cleaned and put them back together. I didn't find any blockages or crud in them at all. I put them back in, got the airbox back in place and hooked up the gas.

I put in premium gas now and filled the take about 1/3 full, took a bit to get the machine started but it started.
Here is my problem, the machine is worse now. It bogs to the point where it will stall if I don't alternate the choke.
Since nothing is bolted down, I was going to pull the carbs but I stopped that process because I've rebuilt lots of carbs and these were no different. The only thing that I am going to do is to change the plugs since the service manual states BR8ES and there are 9's in there from a couple of seasons ago.
I will pick up some new plugs and give them a go. Will update you with my 340 project
 
Should have replaced pilot jet (#35), main jet (#150) and needle & seat (viton tip). It's important to sync carbs when installed.
 
Mike-DRH said:
Should have replaced pilot jet (#35), main jet (#150) and needle & seat (viton tip). It's important to sync carbs when installed.
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Ok, thanks for that. After pulling the carbs apart and seeing that they were very clean, that is when I decided just to put everything back in and not replace parts. As the machine sits, I can still take the carbs back out. I was pretty careful in not moving any over the adjustments on the two cables attached but that was one thing I did expect, and that was to balance the carbs.
 
Clean can be deceiving. Twice this year I've opened up a carb that looked perfectly clean inside that was taken off a motor running like crap. One was my neighbors lawnmower that would only run for 30 seconds before stalling, the second was a Honda generator I bought used last year and never really liked how it ran. It started the stalling bit too when I ran it to check it before hurricane season.
Both cases I sprayed out everything thoroughly with some carb cleaner and the problems went away. There's some very small holes in some of the nozzles that could be plugged.
 
850Switchback said:
Clean can be deceiving. Twice this year I've opened up a carb that looked perfectly clean inside that was taken off a motor running like crap. One was my neighbors lawnmower that would only run for 30 seconds before stalling, the second was a Honda generator I bought used last year and never really liked how it ran. It started the stalling bit too when I ran it to check it before hurricane season.
Both cases I sprayed out everything thoroughly with some carb cleaner and the problems went away. There's some very small holes in some of the nozzles that could be plugged.
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Oh yes, they both got a good cleaning, anything inside the carb was removed and cleaned with carb cleaner. I use a strand of CAT5e solid core wire to clean the holes in the jets. The carbs looked clean to start with but for the work that I did getting them out, they were getting cleaned regardless.
As for the machine being boggy, I have to pick up some new plugs. 'New' premium gas is in the tank.
Will keep you posted
The fact that the machine won't even stay running (as it did before) concerns me. When I put in the new plugs, I will triple check that everything is connected properly. The only thing is the fuel pump, I am not exactly sure how to test it.
If after all that, the machine doesn't run, I will post a video for more advise.
 
Pull the impulse line off the fuel pump and make sure its not full of gas from a bad diaphragm. There are rebuild kits available for them, my Honda generator engine actually has a Mikuni pump and I had to get a kit from Dennis Kirk since Honda would only sell the whole pump.
Also have you replaced the fuel lines themselves? The pickup line in the tank could be going bad, the pickup itself is brass/bronze and the ethanol loves to corrode the crap out of it.
 
850Switchback said:
Pull the impulse line off the fuel pump and make sure its not full of gas from a bad diaphragm. There are rebuild kits available for them, my Honda generator engine actually has a Mikuni pump and I had to get a kit from Dennis Kirk since Honda would only sell the whole pump.
Also have you replaced the fuel lines themselves? The pickup line in the tank could be going bad, the pickup itself is brass/bronze and the ethanol loves to corrode the crap out of it.
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I will check and get back to all
 
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