Saskatchewan2021
New Member
- Messages
- 2
- Age
- 51
- Location
- Saskatchewan
- Country
- Canada
- Years Snowmobiling
- 1
- Snowmobile
- 2004 Polaris Indy 500 Edge
2004 Polaris RMK 600
First time posting so please bear with me. I bought a 2004 Polaris Indy 500 (also referred to as Edge), the guy I bought it from stated one of the carb needles were bent, so he replaced it. He started up the sled and had it idling, everything was good. Get sled home, and started driving it the next day. It took like 35 pulls on the first day I owned it to get it running. Thought it was something to do with the two hour drive trailering it. It lost power, quit running after 20min. After a while, got it back running, and limped it back to the shed. Figured it needed a carb clean, so stripped the carbs down, cleaned them, and then got it back up and running. Left the fuel shut off turned to "on" over the next four days. Engine flooded with fuel, drained engine with the two 10mm bolts at the base of the block.
The guy who sold me the sled, through in the remaining carb rebuild kit. All Balls Kit 26-1791. In researching the kit, I realize the kit is for 2004-2007 Polaris 500 XC/SP. Wrong kit, and it looks as though he used the replacement needle from that kit. The needle I require is part# 3131287 Needle, Jet | [9DFY1-54]. This needle can not be found anywhere. Is there a different needle/Jet combination that I can switch out so both carbs match?
The needle that came with the All Balls Kit is part# 3131253 Needle, Jet | [J8-9DFH6-57][500]. Is this one compatible with the needle that used to be in the sled? Should I switch out the main Jet to match this needle? The main Jet for a 2004 Polaris 500 XC/SP is part# 3130599 Jet, Main | [410].
The main Jet for a 2004 Polaris Indy 500 Edge is part# 3130139 Jet, Main | [#360].
The carbs do not look identical though so this might not work. So confused.
Also in my research I learned that the o-ring that seals the float valve does get hard, and fuel can flow past it. I'm not sure if this would cause the engine flooding issue. This sled has not run well at all since I bought it.
I can turn the fuel shutoff "on", run the sled and once started will run well, then it seems as though it gradually runs really rough, and before it quits, I give it full throttle and it will only go to 3500rpm, bog out and then I turn the fuel shutoff to "off". Keep the throttle fully pulled, and then the engine will start, and as the carb bowls empty of fuel as it gets burned, it runs better and better until the carb empties.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The guy who sold me the sled, through in the remaining carb rebuild kit. All Balls Kit 26-1791. In researching the kit, I realize the kit is for 2004-2007 Polaris 500 XC/SP. Wrong kit, and it looks as though he used the replacement needle from that kit. The needle I require is part# 3131287 Needle, Jet | [9DFY1-54]. This needle can not be found anywhere. Is there a different needle/Jet combination that I can switch out so both carbs match?
The needle that came with the All Balls Kit is part# 3131253 Needle, Jet | [J8-9DFH6-57][500]. Is this one compatible with the needle that used to be in the sled? Should I switch out the main Jet to match this needle? The main Jet for a 2004 Polaris 500 XC/SP is part# 3130599 Jet, Main | [410].
The main Jet for a 2004 Polaris Indy 500 Edge is part# 3130139 Jet, Main | [#360].
The carbs do not look identical though so this might not work. So confused.
Also in my research I learned that the o-ring that seals the float valve does get hard, and fuel can flow past it. I'm not sure if this would cause the engine flooding issue. This sled has not run well at all since I bought it.
I can turn the fuel shutoff "on", run the sled and once started will run well, then it seems as though it gradually runs really rough, and before it quits, I give it full throttle and it will only go to 3500rpm, bog out and then I turn the fuel shutoff to "off". Keep the throttle fully pulled, and then the engine will start, and as the carb bowls empty of fuel as it gets burned, it runs better and better until the carb empties.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.