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96 XLT Sp Low End Bog

nosnow

New Member
Messages
5
Age
57
Location
Drayton North Dakota
Country
USA
Years Snowmobiling
5
Snowmobile
96 Polaris XLT Special
I'm new to the site. I recently had my daughter's 96 XLT Sp into the shop to get a new throttle cable put on and now it has a low end bog when it starts out. It idles at 1200 rpm when fully warmed up. I plan on turning up the idle and using my Unisync when I set the idle. The carbs were cleaned last year and did very little riding. This has become my sled now that our other 96 XLT runs better and has a new top end so my 15 year old daughter rides that one now and I'm riding the 96 XLT Sp that isn't working right. The shop synched the carbs when they put the cable on.
 
I'm new to the site. I recently had my daughter's 96 XLT Sp into the shop to get a new throttle cable put on and now it has a low end bog when it starts out. It idles at 1200 rpm when fully warmed up. I plan on turning up the idle and using my Unisync when I set the idle. The carbs were cleaned last year and did very little riding. This has become my sled now that our other 96 XLT runs better and has a new top end so my 15 year old daughter rides that one now and I'm riding the 96 XLT Sp that isn't working right. The shop synched the carbs when they put the cable on.
Don't spend time on idle quality until you first check carb sync. Remove the air box, push throttle lever until at least one cut-away is exactly flush with the top. Without moving the throttle lever check the other 2 and make sure they are all at the same exact height. Use the adjusters on top of the carbs to get them all (again exactly) the same height.
 
Don't spend time on idle quality until you first check carb sync. Remove the air box, push throttle lever until at least one cut-away is exactly flush with the top. Without moving the throttle lever check the other 2 and make sure they are all at the same exact height. Use the adjusters on top of the carbs to get them all (again exactly) the same height.
I couldn’t find my 5.6 mm bit to synch the carbs so I ordered one. That’s how I’ve always synched the carbs. I’ve been running BR8ES plugs but I’m switching back to 9s. If the carbs are synched good from the shop I was thinking I’ll clean the carbs in chemdip in the ultrasonic cleaner again. It didn’t have the big last year so I’m thinking too that it’s the carb synch.
 
Heat range on spark plugs won't change how it runs. The only reason to change heat range would be if they are fouling or melting the electrode.
 
Heat range on spark plugs won't change how it runs. The only reason to change heat range would be if they are fouling or melting the electrode.
I put new plugs in it today. The old plugs were BR9ES. I was going to synch the carbs but they were synched already pretty well. I put my Unisynch on and the ball was in the same spot on all 3 and the 5.6 mm drill bit just drug a little so I think the synch is good. I pulled all 3 carbs and am in the process of cleaning them in the ultrasonic cleaner using Chemdip 0996. I'm thinking maybe the idle jet maybe restricted on one of the carbs. My ultrasonic is kind of small so I can only do one carb at a time.
 
I think you are still only measuring at a point where the cutaways are sitting on the idle screws. One, or more, of the throttle cables could be slack at that point and won't pick it up off the idle screw until well after the other(s).
 
I have a similar issue. 96 Classic Touring. Cleaned the carbs, set them with the 7/32 bit, set the idle with the 1/4 bit (Twice). Verified the pilot jets where both 40’s, set the mix screw at 1.5 turns.
Starts and idles great at 1600rpms. When I apply the throttle it boggs and won’t accelerate most of the time. If I crack the choke for a second the rpm’s will go. Once they are at 3k+ she runs like a champ. But from idle to 3k is tough.
My gut is telling me it’s a failing fuel pump. Thoughts?
 


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