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Adjusting for overdrive

Snoman

Snoman

Member
Messages
165
Age
61
Location
Ct
I geared to 1.74, put a 50/44f helix with 140/200, a 120/310 with cutler weights and a gates belt. If I'm not getting full shiftout what would I change? We didn't get to test much last year as we only rode 4 days. Sled worked great but I think there's more top.
 
I was looking for technical advise here. Anyone know what I should change?
 
There's a lot that can be involved why your not getting full shiftout
Clutches aligned properly?
Belt deflection?
Track tension?
Chain tension?
Belt slipping?
Not enough top spring lbs.?

Those are some just with the cvt system
 
Thanks Brock, I wasn't sure what makes a cvt system go beyond 1 to 1. Appreciate it.
 
I would disassemble the primary and make sure the aftermarket weights are not hitting the spider when trying to shift out. What kind of rpm's is the sled running. Keep adding weight towards the tip of the weights till it won't pull proper rpm. The rest of the clutch parts you have sound like they will work. Just don't have much experience with those weights.
 
I have seen some testing that even 1.74 gearing will not shift out all the way need to go to 1.8 range. Especially with overdrive now you can gear down and have overdrive for top end
 
I just geared my sled down to 1.86 22/41 and tested yesterday. Sled ran 106 mph on the radar gun at 8200 rpm. I was using same helix you have and same belt. We were testing 660ft drag setup but I had the driver hold it a ways past 660. He held it to around 900ft or so running out of real estate fast.
 
I wasn't really sure how it got there but I'm learning. So 1.8 is even better you say. I have a list of things to check and hopefully we get snow so can run it.
 
The lower the gear ratio (actually high number like 1.8's vs 1.7's) the more efficient your clutches are the more O.D. you can squeeze. The 1.74 ratio is pretty good for trail riding. Gives you little more low end than stock without any topend sacrifice. In fact that 1.74 gear ratio may be faster on top than stock gears because of the ability to achieve O.D.
 
wgap200 said:
The lower the gear ratio (actually high number like 1.8's vs 1.7's) the more efficient your clutches are the more O.D. you can squeeze. The 1.74 ratio is pretty good for trail riding. Gives you little more low end than stock without any topend sacrifice. In fact that 1.74 gear ratio may be faster on top than stock gears because of the ability to achieve O.D.
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Yes, we went to maine twice last year, unfortunately only twice. My buddy has the same sled but chose only to change springs. His sled ran good but couldn't keep with mine coming out of corners. Strange was we r even in top speed still.
hopefully we can get more time in to do some testing.
 
wgap200 said:
I just geared my sled down to 1.86 22/41 and tested yesterday. Sled ran 106 mph on the radar gun at 8200 rpm. I was using same helix you have and same belt. We were testing 660ft drag setup but I had the driver hold it a ways past 660. He held it to around 900ft or so running out of real estate fast.
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where are you testing I see your in ny?
 
wgap200 said:
I just geared my sled down to 1.86 22/41 and tested yesterday. Sled ran 106 mph on the radar gun at 8200 rpm. I was using same helix you have and same belt. We were testing 660ft drag setup but I had the driver hold it a ways past 660. He held it to around 900ft or so running out of real estate fast.
Click to expand...
You were with Boyd this wkend, just figured it out.. senica falls?
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
which cpc weights do you have the trail version or the turbo mags? there is another way to shift out the primary...add more power..lol just kidding ..as mentioned the gearing or tip weight .
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I have the turbo mags. At 66 groms it turns 8200-8250 with 120/310. That is with no inserts. If I add even the small weights it looses rpms. I was going to try a 120/340 to see if the rpm would come up allowing me to add weight. I'm not sure if this is correct though. And ya Id love to add more power.
 
I don't know turbo mags profile, but what your describing with the 50/44 cam , sounds like to aggressive of a weight profile to me? That's why your not revving

You can do some things to change what you have.

Keep your weights and get a shallower start helix like a 48/44 fp with a 140/220 spring . Beauty about that helix is, the other angle is shallower yet (46/42 fp)

Or go with a different profile weight like 10 series and keep your cam but add the 140/220 spring insecondary
 
If you have a stock pipe your shift speed is perfect, that profile is aggressive mid to top, they will shift like there 5 grams heavier. I think your better of like Brock said, cam down and try it. You should be able to add some base weight to those. Ultimately I think your going to gear down further. Also going to a lower lug track will help with rpm too..
 
Jesusfreak said:
This is what I love about this site, good people with great knowledge & advice passing it on, to help others enjoy the sport, awesome!
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I just have a little fine tuning to do. My buddy couldn't keep up with me in fast maine trails. mostly coming out of corners. If it wasn't for these guys on this site I would still be stock. They are a great help.
 
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