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AXYS cvt system & gearing

Brock

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,044
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
30+
Snowmobile
Polaris
Polaris made changes to C to C,belt,gear ratio's(especially the pro s),primary sheave degree and chaincase C to C for axys models.

The C to C on clutches and chaincase is all ok.

Why the change in primary sheave degree from 28 dual to 27 straight?? To get were I'm going with this. The new 27 degree primary sheaves up shifts quicker then the 28 dual degree. Doo uses 26 degree to I believe.So polaris created a quicker up shifting primary by changing the angle, but keeps the same profile weights and then add's a 1.61 ratio to all pro s models???? This is were I see the trouble.

Having the newer 27 straight degree primary and the 10 series weights with same profile used in the older 28 dual degree primaries doesn't seem like the perfect fit to me. If your creating a quicker up shift by changing angle, then a new profile of weight should be made to keep proper pinch on belt as I see it. The 10 series probably can't keep the same belt pinch with the 28 degree to 27 degree.In order to do this a more aggressive profile weight could be made or using adjustable's with more weight in the mid and tip. This would keep more pressure on the belt(pinch) because of the quicker up shifting 27 degree.

Add the 1.61 ratio to this, which is geared way to tall, and the light weights that come stock, I see belt slippage all the time. This to me is, the biggest problem with guys complaining about RPM loss or fade.

To remedy this, I have added 4 gram heavier weights (heavier tip weight)for better belt pinch and geared all the pro s's 1.73 and 1.74 ratio's. This seems to be working better then factory set up. Fine tune it with a primary spring that works in the RPM range and it reacts better as I've seen.

This is all done around 1000' above sea level.

This is just a thought.

To light of primary weight's(reving to the moon) creates heat and slippage causing belt residue. This causes belt slippage and tons of heat in primary. Add some weight to the primary(2 to 4 grams) to pinch the belt better. Break in these expensive belts easy and wash after.This has had a positive effect doing this.
 
Man Brock, I sure need your help! I would love to understand everything you just said there! If I had that knowledge my sled would rock!! Your awesome and your info really helps, but I just need someone to help me get it close. Then I can do the rest!
 
Man Brock, I sure need your help! I would love to understand everything you just said there! If I had that knowledge my sled would rock!! Your awesome and your info really helps, but I just need someone to help me get it close. Then I can do the rest!
I will help the best I can through internet.
 
Brock, what the best spring would you consider with the gear and weight above? i've done 1.76 ratio and 70''gram weight(i know it's not the Ideal ratio but i was having a 21tooth available to try so i gave it a shot) i also have a bpwr trail can, 1.356 studded to death by the previous owner. Switch 800 2016.

i also want to thank you to share all this knowledge, you've been very helpfull since i've found this forum!
 
What's your elevation?

Springs are fine tuning so they can be changed , no big deal .
 
I'm at sea level!, i got an 120-320 to try. The problem is that i'm not doing more than 7900rpm since gear..i'm on loose snow tho... that why i was suspecting the spring (maybe belt too)!what do you think?
 
I need more info.
What's is your entire clutching?
Any other mods?
 
No other mods. Just a 21t gear up stock 37t down, stock chain, i don't play with weight or spring either. I have acces to 120-320 spring, i was wondering if it worth the try!! I was thinking my 10-70 kill my rpm so i return to 66'.. still 7900-8000 max..
 
I have the 50-44f helix. It runs well on very hard packed or ice. But trail riding rpms are a little low. How is the 48-44f different? How much would it bring my rpms up?
 
If you guys want better rpm in trails with all types of snow conditions with a full progressive tss-04 cam. You might need to make it shallower .

The 50/44 fp may work good on hard pack but sluggish in deeper wet snow to get your target rpm. It's hard to get the best of both worlds .this is why I use adjustable primary weights. I deal with it in the primary after I get my good cam angle that I want. Not to aggressive and not to shallow.

But,if you don't wanna mess with weights. Get a different cam . Go with a tss-04, 48/44 fp and the other is a 46/42 fp. The lesser will help in heavier snow conditions. It's easy to change before the ride too. Also, no less then a 140 lbs start secondary spring and 220 finish . So a 140/220
 
with the 27 degree primary you said makes it upshift quicker. Is this why the newer axys sleds seam to have a lower initial start angle helix that older sleds of the same size engine. example 600 edge 58-42.36 vs axys 600 48-42.36 . has anyone tried a taller initial angle helix on a 600 axys sled was thinking of trying a 50-42.46 or 52-42.46 but the 52 is a custom cut helix for trail riding
Thanks Keith
 
Last edited:
If you guys want better rpm in trails with all types of snow conditions with a full progressive tss-04 cam. You might need to make it shallower .

The 50/44 fp may work good on hard pack but sluggish in deeper wet snow to get your target rpm. It's hard to get the best of both worlds .this is why I use adjustable primary weights. I deal with it in the primary after I get my good cam angle that I want. Not to aggressive and not to shallow.

But,if you don't wanna mess with weights. Get a different cam . Go with a tss-04, 48/44 fp and the other is a 46/42 fp. The lesser will help in heavier snow conditions. It's easy to change before the ride too. Also, no less then a 140 lbs start secondary spring and 220 finish . So a 140/220

Why do you like the 140/220 over the stock 120/200 spring?
 
Because of more weight in the primary and studs. Need more spring at the start so it doesn't suck down in secondary and gives better back shift.
Not saying the 120/200 won't work
 
It will raise a little, i've done 1.68 to 1.76 and gain 200-250rpm!
 
Polaris made changes to C to C,belt,gear ratio's(especially the pro s),primary sheave degree and chaincase C to C for axys models.

The C to C on clutches and chaincase is all ok.

Why the change in primary sheave degree from 28 dual to 27 straight?? To get were I'm going with this. The new 27 degree primary sheaves up shifts quicker then the 28 dual degree. Doo uses 26 degree to I believe.So polaris created a quicker up shifting primary by changing the angle, but keeps the same profile weights and then add's a 1.61 ratio to all pro s models???? This is were I see the trouble.

Having the newer 27 straight degree primary and the 10 series weights with same profile used in the older 28 dual degree primaries doesn't seem like the perfect fit to me. If your creating a quicker up shift by changing angle, then a new profile of weight should be made to keep proper pinch on belt as I see it. The 10 series probably can't keep the same belt pinch with the 28 degree to 27 degree.In order to do this a more aggressive profile weight could be made or using adjustable's with more weight in the mid and tip. This would keep more pressure on the belt(pinch) because of the quicker up shifting 27 degree.

Add the 1.61 ratio to this, which is geared way to tall, and the light weights that come stock, I see belt slippage all the time. This to me is, the biggest problem with guys complaining about RPM loss or fade.

To remedy this, I have added 4 gram heavier weights (heavier tip weight)for better belt pinch and geared all the pro s's 1.73 and 1.74 ratio's. This seems to be working better then factory set up. Fine tune it with a primary spring that works in the RPM range and it reacts better as I've seen.

This is all done around 1000' above sea level.

This is just a thought.

To light of primary weight's(reving to the moon) creates heat and slippage causing belt residue. This causes belt slippage and tons of heat in primary. Add some weight to the primary(2 to 4 grams) to pinch the belt better. Break in these expensive belts easy and wash after.This has had a positive effect doing this.
Interesting observation brock, and wow does that theory ever make sense! So just to make sure I'm on same page, ALL the new Axys sleds have the new 27 degree primary angle? As in, ML 15 and on?
On ur original point, that is very strange that Polaris didn't change the clutching, as is it strange that they kept the same clutching (weight and spring combos) between the different model trims, and different models. Very strange. Obviously they feel they have found an optimal combination to cover a wide variety of gear ratio's/track combinations, but goddam...talk about being vauge. They certainly are using that same clutching combo to cover a very broad range of sled types and riding styles. ...

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