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AXYS performance

Brock

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,044
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
30+
Snowmobile
Polaris
First off, let me say.
The first year sled's have been pretty good and showing some awesome power and speed. The chassis is the funnest sled on snow period. You can rail the corners, come out of it, sit back slightly and ski's are in the air pointing to were you wanna go with confidence.
This is an awesome platform were no others compare or are anything like it.
Great job.

As for the very few that had some little problems, it's getting worked out.

I've been working on this endlessly and have made trips to the dyno to problem solve.

I have one and being a tuner/racer from way back I'm always searching for perfection and more. It's never good enough for me and always find more.

Mine has not been 100%

It's always ran a little rich, used more fuel then the others,used more oil,fouled some plugs and has never rev'd over 8200 RPM like a lot I have tuned. No matter what I did for clutching and gearing. It would never get over 8200 RPM. Most others I have tuned are seeing 8400 RPM easily and have clutched and geared them to 8300 RPM tops. Slamming in at 7700 to 7800 RPM is best and letting it climb to 8300 RPM. Wicked fast sled's.

I had to clutch and gear mine for 8100 RPM tops. I made several tests on a timing system and radar gun to prove my findings. Mine was 8100 RPM tops and most were 8300 RPM tops.

I thoroughly went over everything on my 2200 mile sled.
-checked resistances on everything in service manual
-checked voltage on everything in service manual
-did two full service reports on digital wrench
-did a full systems check on components on digital wrench(tested everything)
-tested everything the digital wrench allows and service manual
-compression and leakdown test


I went over everything possible to try and get mine 100% like others I have tuned. Mind you, the sled still performed, just not 100%

I decided to get it on the dyno to prove my findings I seen in the field. Exactly what I seen in the field showed on the dyno.We hooked up the digital wrench along with dyno to see what's going on. The digital wrench showed the values I put in,engine temp,exhaust temp,det frequency,knock retardation,exhaust valve actual position,ignition timing,intake air temp,throttle position and TPS voltage in high resolution. This is very helpful and handy to go along with dyno. Very important information.

My sled makes power to 8100 RPM then falls hard. Others on the dyno make power past 8300 RPM and just slightly drop off at 8400+RPM. Mine makes good air and the same HP to 7500 RPM like the good running AXYS sled's dyno'd. The bsfa's were in the mid 0.65's and the scfm's were down. Fuel pressure is 64 psi+.

First off it was thought as my oil I used(lengend) made my engine not seat rings properly, not the case. It has great compression and a leakdown test comparable to other good one's.

We tried several things on the dyno to improve and we did. I spent a whole day there with Jim trying multiple things.

My sled is not making the power of some because the bsfa's are in the mid 0.65's(way to rich) and the scfm's are down a little. Get the rich fuel leaned out and get more cfm's and this will help.Many ways to do this. My sled was showing way to rich in fuel from 7200 RPM to 8400 RPM.

The throttle bodies and TPS are very sensitive and the range is narrower and wider on some then others. Very important to sync throttle bodies and get the TPS base voltage 0.695-0.710 volts. Get the WOT voltage no higher then 4.38 and set the idle to 0.913. TPS sends information back to ECU to change fuel and timing,so it's important.

My first trip on the dyno, my TPS settings were 0.903 at idle and 4.40 volts at WOT, the thing is,my base voltage was way high and out of range. 0.750 volts. This was not known as we had to take airbox off and unscrew the idle set screw to find base. My TPS range was from 0.750 volts at idle to 4,40 WOT. Get it down to 0.700 base and the WOT voltage was out. We didn't have anothe TPS.Anyways.

Went back home, back to dealer and did a full system service while sled was idling to show Polaris. We still haven't heard anything back on this.

I went back to dyno again, with things more fine tuned.

The first 3 dyno pulls showed the basically the same as before with some improvements. Changed ECU's with a good running axys that was at the dyno before and did nothing.Still only made power to 8100 RPM tops then fell hard. Same thing, get the bsfa's down in the mid 0.55's and more scfm's. We did that and made power to 8250. It was in the same HP range as other good ones on dyno.

Some things are off, could be my pipe as it's not letting it rev,not putting heat in the pipe and pulling raw fuel compounds into not making it rev up top and running it rich in fuel. Put on another good pipe and gained 7 scfm and got the bsfa's down in the mid 0.55's and rev'd 150 RPM more.
It now rev'd to 8250 RPM and made power. By this time the day had been long and we quit.

The gains have been fantastic and finding more out. We are going at it again and it's going to be in the hunt.

stay tuned
 
Screenshot_2015-04-29-10-18-27.png
this shows the values I put in the DW while on dyno. This is very important to monitor all inputs along with dyno results. Dyno with DW is a must.

Enjoy
 
Yes great info, and great read! Weird I was at 8250 after around 300 miles than after 1000 miles I started losing rpm's changed belt and right back to 8250, then I did SLP stage 2 and now I'm at 8300- 8350 and it's way faster than stock, I just think I'm missing something with my clutching.
 
Yes great info, and great read! Weird I was at 8250 after around 300 miles than after 1000 miles I started losing rpm's changed belt and right back to 8250, then I did SLP stage 2 and now I'm at 8300- 8350 and it's way faster than stock, I just think I'm missing something with my clutching.
Are you using SLP MTX weights?
 
I don't know what weights they gave me in the kit. I didn't put them in. And they came with some rivets. And I had changed them once, I was losing mid range rpm.
 
I don't know what weights they gave me in the kit. I didn't put them in. And they came with some rivets. And I had changed them once, I was losing mid range rpm.
It's slp weights
 
It's slp weights

Yes they are SLP weights. And the kit came with a bunch of rivets. I was losing rpm's during my mid range. Then i told my dealer that and he made changes to help my mid range. A and it worked. Cause I wasn't losing rpm in the mid range. I think he took a little weight out of the middle hole. But I really can't remember what he said. But it revs to 8300-8350 rpm at WOT all the time with the occasional 8400. Now you said it loses HP at that rpm. So now I want to change it all up and have all my power at 8250-8300 RPM. I have a good top speed and I'm 250 on a Pro X SB with1.75 lugs. So I thought 107 I think it was on the speedo. Not to worried about top speed, I normally don't lake race, but it's nice to go fast when I do. But I just want to have and use all the HP that I have put in the sled.
 
what's all in your sled for mods???

A pipe alone can change peak hp to 100+ more then stock.

The problem is, some stock pipes aren't letting enough heat in the pipe. More heat = more peak hp,more hp,more torque, better scfm, better bsfa,
 
Right now I just have a SLP pipe and can. And SLP clutch kit, stage 2. I was thinking about putting a FPP head and domes and a fuel controller on it. I don't know what my pipe runs at for temp, but the sled runs at 127 unless I sit and idle for a long time. But while running down the trail or in the backcountry it's at 127 degrees.
 
Not to hi jack this thread, but.

Your slp pipe makes it's peak hp around 8300-8400.

Let's start a slight mod thread
 
I believe the slp pipe kit makes more hp 100 rpm higher then stock Polaris.
So stock Polaris is around 8250 rpm for peak. This would mean 8350 rpm for peak hp on slp pipe kit.

Dr no doo, u remember your dyno run with slp pipe peak hp??
 
HAVE IT RIGHT HERE 8300..160.1HP JIM HAS THE ENGINE SPEED IN 100 RPM INCREMENTS SO 8350 MIGHT BE OK
Thanks my friend:)

When we clutch in the field when motor is under load and transferring power from cvt system through chain case,to track drive sprocket,to track.
It doesn't hurt to go over the crank dyno number 100 RPM up top.;)
 


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