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Best top speed but only 8050 rpm

Frank pro x

Frank pro x

Member
Messages
47
Age
43
Location
Trois-Rivieres, Quebec , Canada
Yesterday morning, I drove a little ride before working and the trail was really hardpack. The traction was very impressive. The sled ran great but when i hit the throttle the rpm climb 8250 but drop to 7800 rpm and finish to 8050 rpm. Normaly when i go wot , the rpm was around 8300-8150 all the time . But yesterday i got my best top speed this years 170KM/h speedo (162km/h Gps) with only 8050 rpm and the primary clutch was don't full shift . I don't understand when the sled run 8300 Rpm and the primary full shift i loose 5-10 km/h vs yesterday run . Any idea ?

2016 aventure 800ho
stm 69.5/ 120/310
team tied 64/60 -140/200
23/40 gear
jaws pipe no fuel controler
 
I would take some weight away or put 140 220 in the secondary i was running daltons qa3 at 71 grams and reving 8350 change the secondary to 140 200
Had to take out two grams to rev 8350
 
No testing with the Jaws pipe.

On other piped and stockers the Axys 800 does respond to added timing via PCV w timing control.
 
The 140-200 spring works well. It has a soft spring rate and helps to get the motor loaded quicker.
 
Jaws does not need tuning but does demand RPM and heat. Maybe clutch to pull a consistent 8450, and wrap the pipe to maintain heat. I think they perform nicely.
 
Removed 1.7 grams yesterday . Great improve the sled run crisper and the rpm will go up 8100-8200. I go back with my 155/222 spring and 66/62 helix in the team tied and the rpm got to 8350. I dont lose top end and the sled accelerate faster !
 
Chiefcheese said:
Jaws does not need tuning but does demand RPM and heat. Maybe clutch to pull a consistent 8450, and wrap the pipe to maintain heat. I think they perform nicely.
Click to expand...
I warped the pipe at the beginnig of the season and the warp dont stay in place . Probably my fault . It's was the first time i warp pipe . But i did have time to try again . How do you fixe your warp ? With metal tie warp ?
 
Last edited:
I installed my straps with the proper banding tool when i wraped my jaws
and mine also came undone after 1500 miles of riding i think the heat shield will be your best bet to keep the heat in the pipe
 
The jaws pipe was designed around the stock clutching. I would try the stock clutching and go from there. If it still can't pull RPM start looking for other issues. The RPM issue your describing sounds like It's a helix/secondary issue. Rick from NSP posted how the jaws pipe doesn't respond well to aggressive clutching on the axys and I think he is right.
Try the stock clutching. At 8050 It's way down on H.P. your not "riding the torque curve" LOL.
 
I feel I got my 16 Pro S Switch Back running pretty damn good with the Jaws pipe. Track studded with a 4-2 pattern and ½” penetration above the lugs. Hooks hard. I am about 240 fully dressed. Jaws pipe with their heat shield but I threw their insulation away. I added real header pipe wrap and their shield holds it well. Gears were changed to 22-38 (1.73 ratio). Stock chain used. Dalton QAP-3 adjustable weights with smallest inserts, (66.7grams). Primary has a 140-330 spring. 50/44 helix with the 140/220 spring. I did add the programmer with a switch on the handlebars. I add extra fuel when it is really cold and running hard. I get no DETs. I am not using any extra spark advance. This may not be the “Best” set up but works great for me and surprised a lot of folks at a drag race last weekend. Sled now has over 5000 miles and does not skip a beat. Also keep those valves clean!
 
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