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Break in review and procedure, hope this helps people

AxysRider

AxysRider

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Age
65
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CT
Thought I would start a thread with some advice on breaking in your axys.

I took a trip up to maine for the weekend to break in my sled. For starters I highly recommend going through the sled and checking everything. One thing I think that is very important is the clutch alignment (float) and cleaning them properly. I followed brocks clutch alignment procedure and also added some more total float just because and the clutches work flawlessly. I also scuffed them up with a light scotch brite pad, cleaned them many times with acetone, and washed the belt with dawn soap and tough scrub brush. After 100 miles the clutches look like they were never used, not a belt mark on them and run very cool.

Now for break in procedure. I talked to Jim at dtr and he says these motors with the chrome rings need to be riden hard right away to seat the rings properly. His words were the "the harder you run it, the better it will run, hammer down!" So that's what I did, I don't think ive ever ridden so hard in my life haha, however it definitely works. Its cool to watch the rpm gradually increase as the rings seat and the motor breaks in. The motor now goes to 8350-8400 every time I punch it. I had filled the sled with 93 ethanol fuel 2 months ago with the proper oil amount because I had to store the sled in my trailer and didn't want any moisture to build up in the tank so I filled it to the very top. I ran the sled in (91 non) mode which I would recommend as it definitely makes it run better during break in. After the 2 hour break in and the fuel amount decreases I got one det so I just pulled over, shut it off to reset, and put it in (ethanol mode). The sled runs like an animal and maybe runs even better in ethanol mode, could just be that the fuel was a little old. Put on a total of 100 miles so far.

Hope this helps anyone who had questions.
FullSizeRender [90839].jpg
 
Nice write up.Div20

Can I ask if you did any clutching mods or gearing yet?
 
With only 100 miles you are not out of break in mode.
 
I've also heard the best way to break them is to ride them hard
 
racerdave said:
With only 100 miles you are not out of break in mode.
Click to expand...

Yes it is. The "break in mode" is the first 2 hours of operation. That time is critical for proper ring seating, the ecu adds extra fuel and oil, and you premix the tank. After the 2 hours the ecu switches to normal fuel usage but still increases the oil, it operates for 18 hours with increased oil but that does not effect performance.
 
AxysRider said:
Thought I would start a thread with some advice on breaking in your axys.

I took a trip up to maine for the weekend to break in my sled. For starters I highly recommend going through the sled and checking everything. One thing I think that is very important is the clutch alignment (float) and cleaning them properly. I followed brocks clutch alignment procedure and also added some more total float just because and the clutches work flawlessly. I also scuffed them up with a light scotch brite pad, cleaned them many times with acetone, and washed the belt with dawn soap and tough scrub brush. After 100 miles the clutches look like they were never used, not a belt mark on them and run very cool.

Now for break in procedure. I talked to Jim at dtr and he says these motors with the chrome rings need to be riden hard right away to seat the rings properly. His words were the "the harder you run it, the better it will run, hammer down!" So that's what I did, I don't think ive ever ridden so hard in my life haha, however it definitely works. Its cool to watch the rpm gradually increase as the rings seat and the motor breaks in. The motor now goes to 8350-8400 every time I punch it. I had filled the sled with 93 ethanol fuel 2 months ago with the proper oil amount because I had to store the sled in my trailer and didn't want any moisture to build up in the tank so I filled it to the very top. I ran the sled in (91 non) mode which I would recommend as it definitely makes it run better during break in. After the 2 hour break in and the fuel amount decreases I got one det so I just pulled over, shut it off to reset, and put it in (ethanol mode). The sled runs like an animal and maybe runs even better in ethanol mode, could just be that the fuel was a little old. Put on a total of 100 miles so far.

Hope this helps anyone who had questions.
View attachment 882
Click to expand...

Did you break-in the Gates belt for the first 30, 40, 50 miles or let 'er rip from the get go?
 
The 16's pull 150 + hp 2nd dyno pull and keep climbing. Way shorter break in then the 15 models which toke a lot longer.

As said, load that motor hard.

Get some miles on them and start adding stuff :D

Or be like doo2poo and add stuff right away,lol SmileyFaces7
 
Brock said:
The 16's pull 150 + hp 2nd dyno pull and keep climbing. Way shorter break in then the 15 models which toke a lot longer.

As said, load that motor hard.

Get some miles on them and start adding stuff :D

Or be like doo2poo and add stuff right away,lol SmileyFaces7
Click to expand...
Thats what I was going by.
 
OK guys. My first post to this new site. "New to me" Got a new 2016 Switchback Pro-S 800 this year. Had the 60th Anniversary last year so I had some ideas in advance how I'd set this sled up. Given that this is a "BREAK IN" discussion I thought I'd check for any opinions on my approach.

(( Before logging any miles I've changed out four things. ))
(( By the way, I'm close to 300lbs fully dressed w/ riding gear. ))

1. I swapped out the stock track for a 1 1/2" RIP SAW 2. "Studded"
2. I changed the gearing to 1.86 w/ 22/41 gears and a 70 pitch chain.
3. Installed "GABES" Clutch Kit. (( Helix, Primary Spring & Secondary Spring ))
4. Installed Dalton's Adjustable weights.

We are slow getting good snow so far this year in Maine so break in time is coming slowly. I managed to get out once for 44 miles and have 2.8 engine hours. I wanted to break it in hard like everybody is mentioning to be the right thing to do but with the trails having weak snow cover in some area's I had to use some caution and couldn't just outright hammer the shit out of it. I guessed with the adjustable weights, where would be a good place to start for weight. I believe I ended up with just shy of 68 grams as my starting point. The first several chances I had to grab WOT she grabbed 8000 rpm. After about 20-25 miles she started giving me 8100 and I saw 8150 at least once. "Maybe Twice?"

I see some people say you should get through the break in period before changing anything from the sleds stock form. Other people seem to start digging right in and add their stuff right away. I've got the SLP Pipe & Can in the box ready to go. Figured I'd wait a little before putting that on. Hell, maybe I should have waited to put the other shit in?? Lack of snow can make a man lose his patience. Haha!

Few Questions:

** What's your thoughts on the adjustments I've already made? Should I have waited longer before installing them?
** I just took a half gram off the weights thinking I'd like to see a touch more rpm. Should I have stayed where I was and given her more riding time to see how much more rpm she ends up giving me as she breaks in?
** How many engine hours would you recommend before I Install the SLP Pipe & Can?
** I've got somebody local that can dyno for me at a reasonable rate. I was thinking I'd get a few pulls on the dyno as she is right now. "THEN INSTALL PIPE & CAN" Then pull a few more dynos to see exactly where I'm at with the can. Curious if my findings will be the same as what was found in the pipe shoot out? Anyways, How many engine hours should I get in before running dyno time to get real HP & Torque numbers?
 
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Dyno it right away if you like. I would.
The dyno is actually the best place for break in. It's controlled.

Dyno your sled stock.

Then add slp pipe/ can.

See what you get.
 
AxysRider said:
Yes it is. The "break in mode" is the first 2 hours of operation. That time is critical for proper ring seating, the ecu adds extra fuel and oil, and you premix the tank. After the 2 hours the ecu switches to normal fuel usage but still increases the oil, it operates for 18 hours with increased oil but that does not effect performance.
Click to expand...
Two questions: First, I'm just a bit confused the first post. So did u put 93 octane ethanol fuel in for it first tank but run it on the non-ethenol setting?? I always jus ssumed that would not be good for the motor
Secondly, did u say u recommend filling the first tank with pre-mixed fuel on top of the oil there already going to be injected?? Wouldn't that just gum shit up?
I'm not going against what u say at all, in fact I'm just tryna learn something new that I was obviously oblivious to in the past.

Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk
 
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