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Clutched vs stock

PerformanceRich

PerformanceRich

New Member
Messages
22
Location
CT
I am interested in doing some clutching and gearing on my new axys. I am kind of skeptical because it really rips the way it is right now stock. Hangs the skis at will, pulls hard out of the corners and on top end. I am an aggressive trail rider. Is a clutched/geared sled really that different? I'm worried it will decrease performance and that it'll only be good in a drag race from a dead stop. Friend of mine who moved to New York State says he did a 120/310 primary with dalton adjustables, 50-44F helix with 155/222 spring, and 1.74 gearing (I think it's 23 top 40 bottom). He says it's awesome. If there is anyone who could tell me how the performance is that would be awesome!

Let it snow!
 
There is always more in clutching and gearing. The guys that have a timing system like a g tech or a v box can really see the gains. I have a timing system and I see if I went forwards or backwards.

It's all in what you want??

Some people want 0 to 100 mph as fast as they can get with good back shift for fast trail. This method is corner to corner fast.

Some want all the top mph then can squeeze out of it. This method up shifts slower but can get more mph.

Some want a in between. Fast in mph and good corner to corner. This is what I call fast trail set up. It's the best of both worlds.

All in all. You can't have your cake and eat it too. So, if you want a set up to get in the triple digits(top mph) it up shifts slower and has a lazier back shift. If you want fast corner to corner with amazing back shift, it will give up some top end mph.
It's all in what you want. To many people expect to have everything. Not the case.

If you want top mph, don't expect a quick up shift and back shift in trails.

If you want 0 to 100 mph as quick as possible that has amazing back shift and up shift. Don't expect top mph.

All in what you want as to many guys I see want it all.
 
Brock said:
There is always more in clutching and gearing. The guys that have a timing system like a g tech or a v box can really see the gains. I have a timing system and I see if I went forwards or backwards.

It's all in what you want??

Some people want 0 to 100 mph as fast as they can get with good back shift for fast trail. This method is corner to corner fast.

Some want all the top mph then can squeeze out of it. This method up shifts slower but can get more mph.

Some want a in between. Fast in mph and good corner to corner. This is what I call fast trail set up. It's the best of both worlds.

All in all. You can't have your cake and eat it too. So, if you want a set up to get in the triple digits(top mph) it up shifts slower and has a lazier back shift. If you want fast corner to corner with amazing back shift, it will give up some top end mph.
It's all in what you want. To many people expect to have everything. Not the case.

If you want top mph, don't expect a quick up shift and back shift in trails.

If you want 0 to 100 mph as quick as possible that has amazing back shift and up shift. Don't expect top mph.

All in what you want as to many guys I see want it all.
Click to expand...

I definitely don't expect it all. I am an aggressive trail rider. I don't care about hitting 115 mph on a lake. To me the 0-100 as fast as possible seems like the best setup (for me) for trail and drag race? Is this correct. Or the in between?
 
RICH LAST YEAR WHEN I TOOK MY SLED OUT FOR THE FIRST TIME I WAS SHOCKED JUST LIKE YOUR SAYING, HOWEVER THERE IS MORE THERE,WITH GEARING AND CLUTHCHING. AS BROCK SAID THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO SET UP THE SLED FOR YOUR TYPE OF RIDING. GEARING IN THE 1.67-1.74 AREA IS FINE.I LIKE THE 24-40,BIG GEARS AND MINIMAL CHAIN RAP. GO WITH A 48-44 FULL CUZ RIGHT KNOW THE 50-44 ARE ON BACK ORDER. STOCK REAR SPRING. IN FRONT 120-300 OR 310, IF YOU LIKE THE ENGAGEMENT HIGHER PUT IN A 140 START. AS FAR AS WEIGHTS YOU CAN BUY AN ADJUSTABLE SET TO FINE TUNE YOUR SET-UP. OR IF YOU DONT WANT TO SPEND THE MONEY ,MOD YOUR STOCK WEIGHTS. AS BROCK SAID 70-72 IN FRONT CLUTCH. THEN RIDE AND YOUR ALL DONE. THERE IS EASILY 3 SLED LENGHTS IN THE SEC. BY CHANGING THE HELIX.IVE TESTED IT.
 
Yup that is what I'm looking for corner to corner with the Pro X SB 1.75 track I'm noticing my clutches are a bit hot when zipping this machine thru the trails aggressively. Stock weights are only 10-66.
 
Corner to corner then keeping the two helix angles closer and shallower will be best I think. Ck your alignment and basic stuff first. You could leave the secondary alone for now and just work on the primary , more weight and spring and give it a whirl..
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
Corner to corner then keeping the two helix angles closer and shallower will be best I think. Ck your alignment and basic stuff first. You could leave the secondary alone for now and just work on the primary , more weight and spring and give it a whirl..
Click to expand...
Yup I'm going to keep it stock for now as to get more accustomized to the way the sled behaves then in the spring I'm going to start at the beginning and buy an alignment bar and take things from there.
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
RICH LAST YEAR WHEN I TOOK MY SLED OUT FOR THE FIRST TIME I WAS SHOCKED JUST LIKE YOUR SAYING, HOWEVER THERE IS MORE THERE,WITH GEARING AND CLUTHCHING. AS BROCK SAID THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO SET UP THE SLED FOR YOUR TYPE OF RIDING. GEARING IN THE 1.67-1.74 AREA IS FINE.I LIKE THE 24-40,BIG GEARS AND MINIMAL CHAIN RAP. GO WITH A 48-44 FULL CUZ RIGHT KNOW THE 50-44 ARE ON BACK ORDER. STOCK REAR SPRING. IN FRONT 120-300 OR 310, IF YOU LIKE THE ENGAGEMENT HIGHER PUT IN A 140 START. AS FAR AS WEIGHTS YOU CAN BUY AN ADJUSTABLE SET TO FINE TUNE YOUR SET-UP. OR IF YOU DONT WANT TO SPEND THE MONEY ,MOD YOUR STOCK WEIGHTS. AS BROCK SAID 70-72 IN FRONT CLUTCH. THEN RIDE AND YOUR ALL DONE. THERE IS EASILY 3 SLED LENGHTS IN THE SEC. BY CHANGING THE HELIX.IVE TESTED IT.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Sounds like a good setup. I'll have to order up the parts. I hope they have next day shipping, I get a little anxious when it comes to sleds! haha. Like a kid in a candy store
 
Also on a side note, I set my float on the secondary to about .200-.250. I've done that on all previous Polaris sleds I've had and the clutches stay cool with no belt residue. Put 120 miles on, clutches look like new, just had to adjust belt deflection now since the belt is broken in. I always set my deflection so the track creeps a little bit at idle
 
"I always set my deflection so the track creeps a little bit at idle"

Just to clarify, this would be considered on the tight side right?
 
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