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Full progressive helix observations Tss04

T

TINMAN

New Member
Messages
14
Age
55
Location
wisconsin
Country
USA
Years Snowmobiling
40
Snowmobile
2015 PRO S 600 AXYS
Been running them for years over the compound(stock/partial progressive) type.
Running adjustable weights with a slightly more aggressive profile than 10-series combined with
the full helix and the different cut on the axys primary have added a little extra thinking to the tuning curve. Combo works very good on conditions with good traction and what I've heard on here as"Hero snow" on a 600cc. I'm sure the 800 is probably more forgiving with its extra hp/tq.
When running on more groomed trail/lake snow conditions with loose snow, this combo tends to over shift and under rev from my experience then gradually gets back to where it belongs. Pulling weight from the heel and mid help and get you back where you belong , but weights tend to be 2-4 grams lighter than I'm used to using. Wish I had more snow and time to test. So it's either this combo with light weights and 155-222 to control the full helix. Or go to the stock helix with a 140-200 and throw weight back in the primary. Opinions should be interesting.
 
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I’ve always run FP helix for drag racing only.
In real loose powder snow they aren’t the proper helix to use.
The FP keeps the Sled say in a lower gear and doesn’t shift out as soon therefore pulls harder through the mid range.
I found I had to load it up with a stiffer secondary spring, and heavy weights.
 
It's been stated on this site that FP's backshift better. Completely false. It has to back shift against a steeper + increasing angle rather than the straight, let's say 44 finish angle that a compound has. The initial angle is a very short duration once the clutches start shifting out. This explains the issue you're seing with the FP helix. IMO they are good for drags only in good tracrion. Run the compound for everyday use. It will be more consistent.
 
Thursday-Saturday trail riding and testing a few hours each day (310 miles total). From long 1/2 mile flat field hard base some loose snow, rail road grade runs up to a mile on 2-4" loose snow and on and off blasts on the trails. Typical conditions for about 85-90% of my average riding. No really perfect hard pack where the full progressive would have a drag race advantage.
Swapped to the stock 48-42.36 helix. Only other change was add some weight to the adjustable weights. Basically adding weight to the mid where the full prog.helix would be more aggressive by a few degrees over the stocker.
Added about a 1.4 grams, same tip weight. After a couple runs ended with the same exact heel weight.
The Full progressive vs stock helix ended up with nearly identical Rpm on every aspect, even on the overshift/underev I encountered before.
The aggressive profile of the weights was most of my issue.
With lightening up the mid range considerably and using weight adjustments in the heel with allen screws(weights in the sled). The stock helix was dialed in for temps in the 20s to high 30s degree f. Same with the full helix, only it will be my go to when temps are colder(low teens to mid 20s)up to maybe 26-28f and especially good hard pack running.
Full progressive helix with 61.8-62.2g = stock helix with 63.4-63.8grams. have very similar shift patterns within 50rpm, slightly different feel. Obviously the lighter weights have little more rev feeling and the stock helix/heavier weights more grunty response. Need some timing lights to see what's quicker and faster.
 
Tinman's comments are almost exactly what I have found ...I have been testing 48-44 .36 and a 50-44 f with 100-200 /140-200/140/220..up front 120-310 10-66 and 10-68 .with the 50-44f i had to go to a set of Heavy Hitters 65gm. ground to 60gm base weighted to 63.6.
 
With either helix , I will run the Heavy hitters with #2 empty(or not much weight) for the most part for trail riding.
Get the tip(#3) set for my topend rpm and play with heel(#1) to dial in the bottom-mid.
Bigger question is if the full progressive helix/light weights or stock helix/2 grams heavier weights is the better setup(faster/quicker)? Colder temps and better hard pack running maybe a toss up, with a slight advantage going to the full progressive in a drag race. Warmer temps and/or looser snow trail/lake running, the heavier weights/ stock helix maybe more consistent day to day all around.
 
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