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My 2015 Pro Skis

1

15ProS

New Member
Messages
6
Age
57
Location
Campbellsport, WI
Country
USA
Years Snowmobiling
40
Snowmobile
2015 Polaris 800 Switchback Pro S
Can anyone tell me if this is how the skis are supposed to look? I'm having a terrible darting issue and these don't look right to me, the center looks to thin. This was a demo sled i bought after selling my last sled. My second Polaris and I'm not having any better luck with this one.
Don't even think I could put a set of dual runners on if I wanted to?

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What does the top of those ski's look like? Post a pic.
 
Typical Pro-Steer skis. They are a great ski new, but the hour glass shaped front wears down way too quickly. Compound that with skis that point down with the front end off the ground, and you have skis and carbides that are worn off in the front. And yes, the sled will dart like crazy.
Shim the skis to force the rear of the skis down, and no more darting, assuming a tight front end and proper toe out.

I am sold on SLP SLT's and Bergstrom triple point carbides.
 
I think its a standard polaris ski, but it looks like someone took a grinding wheel to it. Maybe it's normal??

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rabbi said:
Typical Pro-Steer skis. They are a great ski new, but the hour glass shaped front wears down way too quickly. Compound that with skis that point down with the front end off the ground, and you have skis and carbides that are worn off in the front. And yes, the sled will dart like crazy.
Shim the skis to force the rear of the skis down, and no more darting, assuming a tight front end and proper toe out.

I am sold on SLP SLT's and Bergstrom triple point carbides.
Click to expand...

I did tighten up the front, tried the toe at a 1/4 and 0 degrees out without much change. Forgot about adding shims to rubbers, I'll add that next.
 
Typical, yes but not normal. I am baffled that Polaris doesn't shim skis from the factory to reduce front ski/ carbide wear.
 
15ProS said:
I did tighten up the front, tried the toe at a 1/4 and 0 degrees out without much change. Forgot about adding shims to rubbers, I'll add that next.
Click to expand...
I should have defined "tight front end". What I meant was not having worn parts, i.e. loose tie rod ends, worn upper control arm bushings, etc. Worn control arm bushings are very common on the Pro-Ride sleds. While the front of your sled is suspended grab the upper control arm and attempt to move it forward and back. You might be surprised how much movement you will get. And that fore and aft movement changes toe-in.
 
Skis have some pretty good wear but I don't think that is what is giving you issues. Those carbide do not look like a very good design at all. I prefer to use stud boy shaper bars. get 6 inch carbides.

Also the nature of the axys design is a very responsive chassis. The spring preload settings turn it into a different sled by changing the balance of it and makes a huge difference. Try it out. Not sure what your front shock preload is at but tighten it down takes weight off the skis. Also make sure front shocks at 2.5 inch preload. That may help with the darting. Lots of good info in the owners manual
 
Just an update:
I did tighten up the a-arm mounts to get rid of much of the spindle movement. One side probably moved an inch the other maybe a 1/4 inch. I read the manual and setup the preload on everything and then made adjustments when it drove pretty much the same, without any luck.
After all this I went down to snowstud.com and picked up a set of 8" dual runners.... What a difference, I had them on my Z1 Turbo and I will never go without them again!! I can drive with one hand and not a pinch of darting, even under braking..
Thanks for the help.
 
Darting is usually caused by toe in too. Seen this tons.
It needs toe OUT a 1/4"

Glad got it fixed
 
Fudged about trying to cure the darting on mine as well with limited success (shim / alignment / chassis adjustments). Before yesterdays 130mi ride, opted to slap on the Pilot skis I've had kicking around with a single center carbide only. The dartmaster Axys has left the building. Turning effort is much reduced plus good bite under all the conditions I've ridden thus far. They do have a slight initial push on hard corners but they gather things up and carry you through the corners (even when pushed hard) with confidence. If your the kind of person that likes the hooked extremely hard / instant turn feel in your sled, might not be the skis for you.
I'll be going with a wear bar only on the outside to protect the ski.
Great bang for very few bucks spent.
 
woodys DP4-1300 4" 60 degree Duallys darting completely gone ease of steering 3 sleds 2016 Pro-S and 2 Pro-X No Brainers
 
Duallys are good for darting, but not as good as Shapers for aggressive handling.
 
Also tried them in the past, did control darting but found steering vague with lots of push.
 
That's what I found also. And under certain conditions, snow will pack up between the 2 carbides and turn to ice. That renders the carbides useless, until you stop and chip out the ice between the carbides.
 
Are you guys doing ski alignment first?
Toe out?

I check from factory and it's always a little off . Just saying. I don't use a straight edge as its hard for me to store it and keep it straight.
I chalk a line on my concrete floor and check
 
A chalk line is straight? I am picturing a couple kids playing with their big fat 1 inch diameter sidewalk chalk.Eek

Or are you using one of these

chalkline6.jpg
 
racerdave said:
A chalk line is straight? I am picturing a couple kids playing with their big fat 1 inch diameter sidewalk chalk.Eek

Or are you using one of these

View attachment 1778
Click to expand...
Yes, I'm a union tradesman , so it's comes natural to me as I do new industrial construction.That's the straight chaulkline rd, not kids playing ,lol .

I just make sure track tension and alignment is proper first. Then set sled on floor . Measure out one inch in two spots (at back idlers and front of track)with a small square on floor and track . Chaulk a line past ski's . Then I check ski's to see how perpendicularly straight they are to track. You'd be surprised how many are out a little. I use the chaulkline as a benchmark measuring point . I get both ski's an 1/8" more "toe out" from chaulk line for a total of a 1/4" "toe out"if u measure from ski to ski.
This does help a lot

Just saying.......
 
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