suspension tuning
- Thread starter swing1
- Start date
Brock
Well-Known Member
Do you wanna lower it a little to rail corners too??
Me and Haulin has ours set up to rail corners , we lowered them a little. So it will bottom out a little more then a stiff setting. But I don't care as you need to use suspension.
Me and Haulin has ours set up to rail corners , we lowered them a little. So it will bottom out a little more then a stiff setting. But I don't care as you need to use suspension.
MR INDY
Active Member
- Messages
- 151
- Location
- Toronto
- Country
- Canada
- Years Snowmobiling
- 32 yeras
- Snowmobile
- 2016 Pro S 800 switchback
i have a 2016 pro s switchback i have a 150 lbs x spring on the front track shock and a 130 lbs rear outside shock spring off a 2017 switchback S really liking it this has really helped the bottoming issue
Powaton
Active Member
One person's agressive trail is not another's...
Depends on the trail and where the person likes to get his jollies.
Brock's aggressive trail sounds like fast corners, controlled but hard accereration even if it sacrifices some "big bump performance." This is aggressive trail If you have more consistent trails with some grooming and smooth base.
My "aggressive trail" is unrelenting moguls on beat up woods trails, roots, rocks, ditches, road approaches, drift jumping, lifting front end off stuff and that nasty impossible to see dip in the field at 75mph.
I would prefer smoother riding. But the trails around me just can't be counted on.
Where you fall on this spectrum will dictate the recommendations.
What kind of trails and riding do you do?
Depends on the trail and where the person likes to get his jollies.
Brock's aggressive trail sounds like fast corners, controlled but hard accereration even if it sacrifices some "big bump performance." This is aggressive trail If you have more consistent trails with some grooming and smooth base.
My "aggressive trail" is unrelenting moguls on beat up woods trails, roots, rocks, ditches, road approaches, drift jumping, lifting front end off stuff and that nasty impossible to see dip in the field at 75mph.
I would prefer smoother riding. But the trails around me just can't be counted on.
Where you fall on this spectrum will dictate the recommendations.
What kind of trails and riding do you do?
Brock
Well-Known Member
I lowered fts,ifs. But if your going to do this and your 200 lbs+. I suggest getting the heavier X springs . Or revalve shocks
Powaton
Active Member
Long winded rant incomming!
Start with the preload recomendations in your manual. Start on the lower end of the recomendations, then measure sag.
A good general starting point for most setups is 1/3 (33%) of your total travel taken up as sag.
Warning about friction:
Friction can mess with measurements. There is a way to measure where you take account of that, but we will ignore that for now. Just measure the same way, same place every time.
Actual numbers:
A good starting point is:
1. About 2.75" sag measured at the front bumper.
2. About 3" measured at the upper bolt on the rear tunnel. The one that the scissor link hooks into.
How:
1. Unload the rear to full extension while track is still on the ground.
2. Measure from volt to ground.
3. Remove or unhook the means you used to hack the rear and sit on the machine very gently in your normal spot, don't bounce.
4. Measure. This should be about 3"
5. If of your over, tighten preload for less sag, loosen for more. Exact numbers arn't as important as making sure your within a reasonable range and that you measure the same every time.
I would shoot for 3 to 3.5" at the rear bolt for a start.
For the front, basically the same procedure. **Make sure rear end is on the ground and not jacked or held in any way.
1. Jack or hold the front at full extension and measure from a spot on the bumper to the ground. Then gently set the front down without bouncing it
2. Gently sit on the sled and measure again. 2.5-3" is a good number to start.
*********With this sled you cannot jack the sled up by the rear bumper to unload the rear suspension********
Clickers:
In my opinion, clickers at 6 is a good starting point for an aggressive all arpund setup assuming you have your sag set within a good range. 6 clicks from soft.
If you find yourself bottoming more than you would like, go a couple clicks at a time till your happy.
If your over 10 clicks and still unhappy with bottoming, I would recommend adding some preload to the shock is shocks you are having trouble with, back your clickers down to about 6 and try again.
Senario...Maybe you end up at 2" front sag, 2.5 rear sag, center shock preload cranked and clickers on 12. If that were the case, I would say you are a candidate for bigger springs in the rear and a revalve.
Running the shocks all the time at the outer range of the clicker settings all the time is not ideal for ride/handling or the longevity of the shock. If you care to know the theory as to why, let me know.
It's not "bad" it's just a strong indication you need a different setup.
Same with springs and sag. If you have jacked preload and are still unhappy, you need stiffer springs or ride less aggressively.
You'll get the best performance from the lowest ride hight and lowest clicker settings you can tolerate. It's okay to bottom
Powaton
Active Member
For the below comment, I'm guessing full extension means the bottoms of the carbides should still touch the ground? Seems to me if that is true, once removing jack it would immediately drop 3-4"+??
I hoist from the K brace center and that seems to take load off the rear shock...
"1. Jack or hold the front at full extension and measure from a spot on the bumper to the ground. Then gently set the front down without bouncing it"
I hoist from the K brace center and that seems to take load off the rear shock...
"1. Jack or hold the front at full extension and measure from a spot on the bumper to the ground. Then gently set the front down without bouncing it"
