?? Dalton QAP weight vs 10 weights ??

racerdave

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Do the Daltons have the same, taller or lower heel height as a 10 series weight?
 
Dave, I've measured the dalton pro series weights on my jig and the heel is within a couple thousands of an inch. Which means it's almost the same .
I was told the qap3's were the same profile by the daltons guys.
 
Thanks Brock. I tried to find that jig pic you posted but could not find it
 
Doc/Brock? Can the Dalton weights be loaded enough to replicate the heavy tip/heavy heal like Docs welded weights? Maybe with the tungsten slugs? I have heard of guys using a long slug and leaving it stick out of the dalton on the heel end to add heel weight. Clutch has to be clearanced for the slug I'd guess.
 
I stopped using the daltons in my arctic cat for just this reason , the curvature profile seemed to be good but even after I cut tungsten slugs i still could not get enough weight or far enough out to the tip for what i wanted.
 
Dave, I've put a spot weld at the tip underside and make sure it weighs .5 of a gram by carefully welding just a spot and grind off to make sure I added only .5 grams. It helps with just .5 of a gram .
As for the heel on the qap weights add the most u can with the screw inserts.

If u like the 10 series profile but want more weight at heel.The roosters are the same profile as 10 series and their adjustable.

Or you can modify the 11 series by cutting the heel the same as 10 series?

Slp lightening weights are close to the same profile as 10 series with more heel and tip weight.
 
QAP-3 MIGHT WORK DAVE BASE WEIGHT IS 66,AND YES HANGING OUT THE BACK OF THE WEIGHT IS BETTER LEVERAGE, I LIKE LEVERAGE ITS UR FRIEND..LOL JUST MAKE SURE WITH THE TIP WEIGHT YOU CAN KEEP IT AT THE TIP ,NOT THREADING A SET SCREW THATS HEAVIER AND LONGER THAT ACTUALLY AFFECTS THE MID PROFILE OF THE WEIGHT, HAS TO BE IN THE TIP, AND AROUND 2 GRMS.THATS WHAT I PUT ON THE MODDED 66S IN THE TIP, JUST UNDER THE WEIGHT. I THINK THE KEY WITH ANY OF THESE WEIGHTS THAT ARE DRILLED OR MAGNET IS THE BASE WEIGHT HAS TO BE RIGHT, YOU CANT START OFF TO LIGHT AND PUT THE SCREWS THE TO IT..
 
I really like the Dalton weights. They are my favorite weight in a few different models. I tested them on the Axys. The weight placement is different than the stock 10 series weights. I had faster ET's with the 10 series weights with the helix's we were using. I'm sure if we played with different springs and helix's long enough I could've got them to equal the 10 series weights. In the Axys 800 the 10 series weights work pretty good.
 
I agree, however the 10 series are not heavy enough on the tip or base IMO. After looking up the QAP-3s I figured they would work with some weight added just like I do with my modded66s. Just might have to buy a set
 
I agree, however the 10 series are not heavy enough on the tip or base IMO. After looking up the QAP-3s I figured they would work with some weight added just like I do with my modded66s. Just might have to buy a set
Doc, by "weight added" you mean welded on or just the inserts?
 
I'm assuming you could also take a heavier weight and cut it in the center section to give you a heavier tip and heel?

When pulling the sled pretty good the Dalton's are more likely to overshift in the low/mid area than the Polaris 10 series.
 
Seeing how you have more experience with these. If you don't overload the base and only put 2 grms there and put 2 in the tip how do you think they would work? HVe you tried this set-up? And are they 66 grams completely empty? Thx for responding AFM
 
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HPE sells these. Probably available elsewhere. At 7/8th long you are getting into the weight mid from either end. Maybe cut one in half? That would make it 2.7 grams, but not sure if the tungsten would come out then?
daltungslugs.jpg
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The idea for the tip weight would be the heaviest , shortest slug you could put in the end only at about 2 grams. Then put 2-3 gram slug in rear and let it hang out a touch long for better leverage and send it... I can run my sled as it sits on the loader and take notes, (e.t and speed) then just change out the weights to the Daltons and compare test data..
 
The idea for the tip weight would be the heaviest , shortest slug you could put in the end only at about 2 grams. Then put 2-3 gram slug in rear and let it hang out a touch long for better leverage and send it... I can run my sled as it sits on the loader and take notes, (e.t and speed) then just change out the weights to the Daltons and compare test data..
Doc, on the bold, I think I have read that is the problem. It ends up getting into the weights mid area. Maybe someone else can say? That is why I brought up the tungstens cut in half.

Can someone with Daltons tell us what the each of standard 6 inserts weigh ?
 
I think the individual weights were around 66.8 empty. I think they wanted to overshift at around 100 feet even unloaded. (not stock secondary, geared, 144 1.45's in the snow, testing 2 years ago) As you know when you put the screws to the Axys 800 stock it can overshift in that area. I ended up using a stiffer initial secondary spring to get past that with the helix I was using. (Yes I could go less on the helix but it was slower.) I was able to get that to work consistent with the 10 series weights but not the Daltons. Usually in the past I would use the Daltons instead of the 10 series Polaris weight as a lot of sleds benefited from that pull in that area.

With a stocker I'm not sure moving the weights around would work very well with the QAP3 base weight. If you were running a motor making more HP they might work. We did mess around with moving weight around on the Daltons but with the setup we were using it just didn't work. You can move the inserts around. Like anything you could grind them and re-weight them to get them to do what you want to do. I had other sleds I wanted to use them in the way they are stock. Most of my experience with the Dalton's is the fixed weight and then I would cut them. (The testing on the Axys was specifically the QAP3's though.)

LOL, hopefully that jargon makes sense.
 


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