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When was it built? sounds like it was a rolling change as guys with recently built sleds got it.
others mentioned using strips of the fuzzy part of velcro wrapped around the handle to take up the slack
First, whats the build date stamped in the tunnel by the VIN?
There is probably a altitude compensating valve on the airbox the carb vents go into, otherwise they just go to nipples on the airbox itself. The line off the top of the tank is just an atmospheric vent for the tank itself.
The oil...
The tstats are known to fail, especially the 800's which rattle them apart. Thats why the newer 650 & 850 have the stat in the coolant bottle now, not on the motor.
All the redesigned motors since 2018 run lower temps, cant go by what the older 600 runs. 800HO got a new head design & stat in 2018 and they run more like what you are seeing.
Ran ny 850 all day today between 99 and 110.
All the codes are listed right in the owners manual. Looks like its not happy with the pipe temp sensor.
Setup an appointment at the dealer, thats what the warranty is for.
You need to retrieve the trouble code off the display, without it we are just guessing. They tell you how to do it in the owners manual, you can get a digital copy for your sled below if you don't have the original one.
You have to start the machine and make the light appear. DO NOT shut the...
The AXYS chassis and newer sleds don't even have fittings, so as long you are OK with doing what you just did by removing the seals and regreasing them periodically, then you should be fine.
Polaris switched to AGM batteries a few years ago so any decent AGM replacement is good.
I've had good luck with the DEKA powersports replacements myself.
Polaris did a 4 part write up on the road to the development of the BOOST engine
https://snowmobiles.polaris.com/en-us/articles/building-boost-part-1-the-beginning/
https://snowmobiles.polaris.com/en-us/articles/building-boost-part-2-in-the-real-world/...
Yeah I'm out of ideas too other than chase out the capacitor wiring and see why its only getting 6v, The diagram below should help. Maybe something happened at one of the splices.
That drop rate sounds good, so the capacitor isn't the problem. The 6v input however is no good, should be 12-14v. There is a open plug near the primary clutch marked "DC power", check for 12-14v at that plug. You might have to rev the motor off idle when checking to wake up the stator output...
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