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Should run it off the lighting coil, any solid yellow wire. If the wires (1 yellow and 1 brown) on the back of your tach are attached with screws you can put eyelets on your shield wires and put them on the same screws. Yellow is hot, brown is ground.

Plenty good.

The OHM reading you have for the charge coils is probably good. The specs are +/- 10% at room temp. We have tested them at as much as 40% off on a perfectly good running machine. The wire from rectifier to the battery is the charging wire. Run the machine at about 4,000 RPM and test voltage...

The plug end caps should be removed from the plug wires when testing. They have resistance also. The plug caps will unscrew from the plug wire and screw back on when your done. You can also test the plug caps individually when removed from the wire, they will have 5,000 OHMS. All of the OHM...

Yes, external coil has the plug wires on it.

You should always test instead of throwing parts at it. Unplug the stator wires and test the following with an OHM meter. White to White with Red tracer = trigger coil. 185 Ohms Green to Black with Red tracer = ignition charge coil. 15 Ohms Green to Ground should be open. Green to to Red =...

Compression test?

The drag-link (under the engine) from the steering post to the pitman arm is non-adjustable. If you can't adjust your bars with tie rods something is bent.

Don't panic until you at least get the carb issue figured out. It's possible you have a cylinder flooded, flooded cylinders will seal better than non-flooded and show slightly higher compression numbers. And because nobody has ever had a compression gauge calibrated I wouldn't worry about...