Search results

Very curious to hear what the diagnosis is too! I wouldn't expect warranty or anything, but are you going to contact SSI and let them know what you find?

I found the same thing when I bought mine in 2015. Absolute crap...

I don't mean to derail your for sale thread but do you think wrapping the pipe was good for performance? I have an SLP ceramic pipe I was trying to wrap and it didn't stay put so I took it off. Just wondering if it was worth the effort to wrap it? Thanks.

Check out the new video at Polaris Snowmobiles on FB. MORE is coming today. It'd definitely a new engine. The question is, did they lead with a new 600 and a new 850 to follow next year or vice versa???

You could remove the clutch to eliminate it as a source of the rattle. Let us know what you find out.

From the Repair Manual... My settings ended up being: TPS Reference = 5.031 Vdc TPS Base = 0.6995 Vdc TPS Idle = 0.9183 Vdc

Did some reading on another forum and it sounds like Polaris puts this "Statement Of Compliance" information in their recall letter. Below I've attached two different quotes from two different people in the same forum thread... From the Transport Canada officials in Ottawa: " Dear Mr...

I thought I would just have a higher idle speed so I tried for a few days, but it actually seemed to make it run a bit rich at idle so I took the time to set it to the proper 2015 voltage.

I have used that exact procedure and it works well. Make sure you have a "good" digital voltmeter (ie. a Fluke or other that is good to at least 3 or 4 decimal places) and it would be a good idea to have a proper plug to supply power to the ECM power connector under the hood. I used some shady...

Does it have stock gearing in it? If not, has the ECU been programmed for the new ratio?

@Bigfuse

Which FTS spring did you put in? Got a part number?

Do you want more rpm on the bottom end, top end or all the way through? What is your engagement rpm? Are you getting full shift out of your primary?

I have done this on my 2015 ProS (with ProX shocks on it...) with no problems. Just remember to remove the inner "sleeve" from the spindle before you start cutting the end off the spacer. Others see it as a "big" risk but I don't and haven't bent or broke any ski bolts yet. Too each their own...

I'm only following others advice but I wouldn't add any kind of wrap to the Y pipe or even up past where the stock heat shielding on the pipe goes. Pipe heat is good but apparently too much exh heat close to the engine outlet can melt pistons. Just what I've head though.

Thanks for the offer but I don't have the pipe anymore.

I hate to say it, but have you checked for any throttle body boot or crank seal leaks? Maybe give it a spray all around with quick start or an unlit propane torch to see if it idles up? Also, have you inspected the reeds like Brock mentioned?

I don't have a good in with any dealers so I'm pretty sure they would want to do it themselves and charge me an hour shop time. I might call and ask though.

You're right, it's basically a drain line. With the "newer" sleds with pressure operated exhaust valves they run a line from the underside of the diaphragm to a solenoid valve (white arrow). This way when the SV is closed, pressure builds in exh valve under the diaphragm and it opens like...

Haha, yes Tim Hortons. I was offering free coffee but I could be persuaded to throw in some doughnuts or "Timbits" as well... LOL