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SOLVE Replace the wiring harness and Voila. Started with cap on and has reverse Thank you everyone who help out, much appreciated....

off the cap 6 VDC with it sorry to say, same thing, 6 VDC off the cap. waiting for a new harness

will let you know for sure thank you, so she will run without plugged in. ok

no kidding , lol Sounds good, Im up for anything right now. will be home tomorrow. yes we did swap the stator and flywheel. same result Thx man

Ya Bummer man. looking for one also. thank you

Thank you for sharing information, I hope I don't have that problem also.

No I didn't get a hardness yet, Looking to get a new fuel pump, but I doubt if it will fix my problem since I'm cannot getting 14.6 vdc out of the Red wire off the VR even when I have the whole hardness not plugged into the RED wire. Anyone had a match I can borrow

why would this make the pump draw more dc amps ? plugged

Oh, IC. by the fuel pickup you mean fuel pump right, here is Canada we don't say pickup, pickup is a truck...lol

I saw on the other post it should be around 4.3 to 4.5 amp DC anything over 5 amp DC will have problems, I didn't see anything on the Service manual how to test dc amp draw numbers so I have nothing to compare. I also ran the vin number if it did have a recall for the pump and the result negative.

The draw I have is 5.93 to 6 Amps DC to the fuel pump. Would this be too much to cuz voltage drop to the harness and no start when cap is plugged in. No Cap is start (give and take).

I have no clue if the recall was done on the fuel pump, will need to talk to the owner. waiting for my fuse to check the draw on the fuel pump.

First thank you for the information above I was going to tell you the dc amp draw from the pump but my meter has a blown fuse. I soon I get a new fuse for the fluke meter I will let you know. Your problem is the red wire to the relay coming from the VR, if no 14.6 vdcs from VR you will not have...

k, all look good, did check and cleaned connectors, I'm looking for a hardness on ebay

yessir, new VR , new cap, new relay and swap stator and flywheel

lol, your not helping haha JK,(im grateful you sticking around for this battle) Im thinking harness swap. just to be sure, I cant find any loose or bare wire any where....

No it wasn't the new cap (original). also we have a same sled here which we needed to rebuild the motor and so, I took the stator and flywheel and put it on with the same result... so after I thought I had it good working sled after I switch the wire (yellow to yellow) and was able to started...

Ya if you check above the reply, i did and its is a Little higher, i did switch the wire around as per the schematic, to my surprise it did start with cap and I had reverse, i shut it down try it again twice and worked, I then wrap the wires with cloth. put her back together and when to test...

open circuit on the yellows (Z) and brown and yellow (Y) to ground From Stator directly and to the VR Plugged or unplugged unplugged connector to stator and this is the result below Yellows .4 to .5 ohms and 5.8VAC when turn key Yellow/Brown or Black/black in my case from stator .3 Ohms and...

I think I did but when I get back home if the sled is there i definitely recheck to see if the stator yellow wire is grounded. I also noted. that the ohms resistance from the VR output red to brown (ground) is around 560 ohms plugged in and unplugged goes up to 700 ohms. FYI . seems high...