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Axys inconsistant belt comoounds

B

Brock

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,044
Location
Ontario
Country
Canada
Years Snowmobiling
30+
Snowmobile
Polaris
The belts made for the polaris axys have inconsistent compounds. Polaris knows this and is correcting this from manufacturer.

This is a problem in the cvt system as one belt heats up and delaminates creating more belt residue on sheave faces. This causes inconsistent RPM issues. Some call it fade. It's loss of RPM.

Use a gate's belt instead, way cheaper anyways.

I said this back in December 2014, but some are disbelievers. Ed knows this too.

Anyways, just informing :cool:
 
So then will Polaris replace any new unused belts? I didn't have any issues with the oem belt that came on the sled. I also bought a new belt for a spare, but it was never ran/installed.
 
racerdave said:
So then will Polaris replace any new unused belts? I didn't have any issues with the oem belt that came on the sled. I also bought a new belt for a spare, but it was never ran/installed.
Click to expand...
You'd have to talk to your dealer about that bud(belt replacement)

We looked at over 20 belts from a dozen sleds and the compounds seemed different. Some sheave faces were smeared black some weren't. Some clutches were reading 150f and some 120f. The belts do have a lot to do with cvt system inconsistentcys , any one who doubts that needs to learn. I've seen this on the race track with different belts. One is good, one is bad. It makes you lose rpm near the top with a bad belt. It's slips up top, heats up and causes rpm loss. This can get guys searching for something else.
I'm not saying this is the one and only fix. It is one of them though.
 
Mine was one with the smeared inner sheave. I cleaned that thing I don't know how many times before I just through a new belt at it. Then it seemed to get better.
 
What manufacturer makes oem belts for poo?
And is poo changing manufacturers?
 
20150914_195128.jpg
is this the belt compound on my clutch like you guys are talking about?
 
Ya thats,what I thought was on there. Ya the belt deff has never hit the top. Got the 1.74 gears in now and springs and helix and weights just came today
 
proS800 said:
Ya thats,what I thought was on there. Ya the belt deff has never hit the top. Got the 1.74 gears in now and springs and helix and weights just came today
Click to expand...
What are you changing them to?
 
140/300 primary with 10 series 70 gram weights, 66/.46 helix 140/220 secondary spring. 165 lbs with gear prly lol
 
Several including DRnotadoo thinks that helix {same one I have/ran on my 12 800} will not be as good as a full progressive.
 
Idk its the setup brock gave me. I couldn't tell you the difference between the two lol. I build race cars not sleds so this so all new to me
 
proS800 said:
What's a full progressive? What is the stock helix then?
Click to expand...
A full progressive helix changes angles one degree at a time.
Eg. 50/44. It starts at 50 degree angle, then 49, then 48, and so on until it hits 44.
Full progressive are better for backshift mostly.
The helix I mentioned was tested against the full progressive, it ran a faster et time.
Not everyone has the same results.
 
So my new one is 66/44 should I get the 50/44 full and try it to? I drag race half the time and hard trail ride the other half. Sometimes in deep snow.
 
I see in slp clutch kit it uses the same 140/220 secondary spring and stock helix and 160/340 primary spring with 71 gram mTX weights. What does that primary spring do vs the one I got
 
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