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My take on AXYS down HP/fade

I also want to add.

The cvt driveline system does have a huge effect. 90% of people complaining of loss of power, this so called fade is in the cvt system. Many dealers plus me have proven this. Seems internet chatter has people self diagnosising there sleds and they seem to have all the answers before we even try to help.
The internet can be good and bad, usually bad when it comes to a problem.

Anyway.

Polaris in my opinion didn't do well with the cvt system on the axys models from factory.

The s models with the 1.61 gear ratio is not complimenting the cvt system. The x version has a better gearing ratio from factory (1.86 ratio). The 1.86 ratio can pull rpm's more consistently even with a cvt system not set up properly in. The 1.61 ratio can't and will struggle.

The 26 degree primary sheaves as I've said before up shifts quicker then the 28 degree polaris has used commonly. The problem I see with this is polaris has used the same weights with the same profile(10 series). In my opinion, if your going to increase up shift quicker with different degree primary, then weights should have a different profile as well. Since its more aggressive up shift, the weights should be too?? Either that or add mid and tip weight to weights to keep belt pinch better to prevent from slipping. Or, just change back to 28 degree of norm?

The other problem is the the low engagement spring, it's not the rate of the springs, just the engagement. The gold spring rate of 133 is good, but you can keep around the same rate, just engagement will be a little higher like the blue polaris spring.

Also, the team tss-04 with the one cut helix from factory seems very rough. Some tss-04's are binding a little and can cause huge unforseen problems.

I used to use a jackshaft pick up with my racepac to monitor clutching. You can't with these as jackshaft is outside. I use an infared thermometer now to monitor primary and secondary temps. We usually make a couple wot pulls, then check primary and secondary heat right away. If there with in 5 degrees of each other your good. An example is the primary reading 125f and secondary 120f. I have had some poor running sleds read 140f on primary and 100f on secondary with belt residue on primary. Fixed with proper clutching and problem was solved.

I think polaris should have the gear ratio lower on the s models from factory. Change back to 28 degree primary, use a higher engagement spring like the polaris blue, junk the tss-04 team and use p2 or team tied.Offer more belt choices(softer and harder compounds). I think this would solve most cvt system issues.
just my opinionRockon
 
I think 90% of the people out there experiencing the loss are just like you're outlining Brock .... no question about it. The fade issue that concerns me the most is the "light switch" type fade where the sled runs flawlessly to start the day, only to fall on its face 30-40 miles into the day's ride. And then have it return to running flawlessly the next morning (or possibly even later in the day). I hope Polaris can find the root cause to that particular fade issue because that one seems to be the most perplexing.

Yes, you mentioned this already.

Maybe all that I have posted will fix this so called" fade" that the internet has labeled? Maybe it's all speculation and hearsay and just internet labeled wrong?

I say this because a number of cases that have labeled their sleds with the internet chatter have been fixed with things I have mentioned on this site.

I keep an open mind on things. I like to have proof of everything that's going on. Internet chatter isn't proof.
If you think you have a problem, check resistances on every component, check voltages, check continuity. Do all this with digital wrench and multimeter. DW has a good program to test every component that I have yet to see anyone mention on the internet. Use the great tools supplied. It's only illusive if you didn't check.
Speculation and assuming is a bad thing. Make sure on things.It ends in better discussions and a true way to find out the cause.

I gave you one example with one saying his was a so called fade sled. Went to dyno, it had great power. Off to fix cvt system and it was resolved.

Continuous internet chatter doesn't make it true, or doesn't make it false.

Keep an open mind
Check things over thoroughly and be honest.
This way it will help everyone.
I'm not saying that I have the fix for all sleds, but what Polaris covered in their team tips includes 90% of people that don't know any better. Also what I have mentioned has helped too.
 
View attachment 266

If the inside of your sled looks like this, your pipe doesn't have a good seal.
This isn't good and will only hurt your power .

I emailed polaris higher up's about this over a month ago and now I see in the Team tips they posted to make sure your pipe is sealed. That's one thing. Bad pipe is another.

I have more ..............

After I put on a few miles I noticed the bottom of my belly pan was some thick black sludge. I brought it to the dealer and the said it was normal. For the amount of oil they used during break in period would cause that. It has now cleaned up and it's not there anymore. The sludge went away. Now my belly pan is clean. Is that true and it is caused from all the oil they ran during clean up?
 
After I put on a few miles I noticed the bottom of my belly pan was some thick black sludge. I brought it to the dealer and the said it was normal. For the amount of oil they used during break in period would cause that. It has now cleaned up and it's not there anymore. The sludge went away. Now my belly pan is clean. Is that true and it is caused from all the oil they ran during clean up?

You shouldn't have any leakage from y pipe to pipe. The seal needs to be snug. This is why I'm mentioning it. Make sure y pipe is torqued to motor properly too.
A loose fitting exhaust results in down on power.
 
Mine seems to be clean! So I should be good to go! After I seen all that sludge I had them check everything to make sure things were tight and that wasn't the problem according to them. It's clean now and they must of took it off to put my pipe on, so I'm sure they did it properly. It doesn't seem to have any leaks...
 
I mentioned things but maybe not some.

I'm trying to help and most of my information is scratched down on dozens of sheets of paper, post it's, cardboard and whatever
I'm not very organized, I write on what's in my arm's reach,lol
I did write everything down and have dozens of dyno sheets,videos, etc........

I mentioned the cvt system as being one of the biggest problems with guy's thinking they have a problem with whatever rpm issue their thinking. The drive system is included in this. Chain case,track, fts and all the tensions. Everything to tight and it's robbing hp big time. I seen a guy complaining his sled has no top end. I checked sled over. While up in the air to check track tension, it was so tight there was no sah after warming track up. Chain was to tight too. I readjusted chain track and the fts as he had turned the spring to so much pressure that the front of the slidders were it curves was wore out bad already(huge resistance there).
I set everything a little loser then polaris specs. Checked clutching and graduated properly. He toke it back and gained huge mph on top and loved it again.

Moral of this is: don't count out the obvious simple things first :cool:Rockon
 
I have only three axys sleds to work on. one being my own. the other two were customers. my sled is a pro-x rush. only issue was loose fittings (coolant) near the ex. valve. I fixed this myself. the sled only has 500 miles on it. but I went over this before it was ever ridden and checked everything. not one drop of oil from the wye pipe etc. ( I got a tight fitting one) the sled from day one has turned 8100-8200. and now turns 8350 falling back to 8300. only change has been the drive clutch spring and a gates carbon belt. belt to sheave clearance was at .008 with the gates belt. I run my belt to sheave clearance tight. I like .010 at the most with a new broke in belt.(40-50 miles on it). this sled will break the 100 mph mark in perfect conditions. no problem with low performing here.

but I have a customer that had the fitting come out of his sled. at around 500 mile mark. it overheated and he shut it right down and towed it back to his trailer. then taken to his dealer. a kit that Polaris came up with was installed. a bit after this issue the sled would run fine in the morning. 20-50 miles maybe? then wouldn't turn over 7600 rpm. just like lid's sled. he repeatedly had taken it back to the dealer. I did not know anything about this. after maybe five or six dealer visits? he brought the sled to me. I took all the plastic off of this to inspect everything. there was some oil in the belly pan. but was old. and no oil dripping etc. from the pipe. I checked everything I could. and really looked at the clutching. the alignment was off some but not bad. the deflection was spot on. I looked at hcs axys site for what others were having for issue's. but the coolant leak got me thinking? did something get over heated? so with a heat gun I started taking temps. the coolant by-pass hose was hot all the time. along with the throttle body heated hose and the ones coming out of the cylinders by the ex. valves. this can't be right. this sled did run hotter then mime in the same conditions but not overly hot. I looked at the parts break down. the t-stat looks like it should block off the by-pass? I pulled it and tested. it opened when it should. so I replaced it. I plugged the by-pass hose from the head under the motor back to the pump. the sled was then taken by the owner and riden this way.(week-end) no issue what's so ever. 200+ miles. he returned it to me. coolant bottle was way down? air trapped somewhere I would suspect? I removed the plugged coolant by-pass. (really was just the hose pinched off to stop the flow) so no coolant was lost by what I did. added coolant. and sent him on his way. over 800 miles of trouble free performance since. so what happened here? my guess was air trapped in the head? causing minor det the the ecu was trying to correct? but nothing shows up on the dw.( this sled has been on the dw a # of times.) the sled did show over heat a couple of times? but before his issue? other then this I don't have any other fade or low rpm experience. so here is a case that baffles me. and the dealer as what was really going on. this is why I believe there maybe more then one thing causing this true fade issue? and it very well could be a combination of things? I do agree that the sleds that have been under achieving from day one very well could be a poor fitting pipe and the tps out a bit combined with poor clutching (belt heat, slipping, etc.) I agree that the pro-s axys sleds are over geared and the clutching is way off. the pro-x is way better. not perfect but the lower gearing masks some of the poor clutching.
 
I have only three axys sleds to work on. one being my own. the other two were customers. my sled is a pro-x rush. only issue was loose fittings (coolant) near the ex. valve. I fixed this myself. the sled only has 500 miles on it. but I went over this before it was ever ridden and checked everything. not one drop of oil from the wye pipe etc. ( I got a tight fitting one) the sled from day one has turned 8100-8200. and now turns 8350 falling back to 8300. only change has been the drive clutch spring and a gates carbon belt. belt to sheave clearance was at .008 with the gates belt. I run my belt to sheave clearance tight. I like .010 at the most with a new broke in belt.(40-50 miles on it). this sled will break the 100 mph mark in perfect conditions. no problem with low performing here.

but I have a customer that had the fitting come out of his sled. at around 500 mile mark. it overheated and he shut it right down and towed it back to his trailer. then taken to his dealer. a kit that Polaris came up with was installed. a bit after this issue the sled would run fine in the morning. 20-50 miles maybe? then wouldn't turn over 7600 rpm. just like lid's sled. he repeatedly had taken it back to the dealer. I did not know anything about this. after maybe five or six dealer visits? he brought the sled to me. I took all the plastic off of this to inspect everything. there was some oil in the belly pan. but was old. and no oil dripping etc. from the pipe. I checked everything I could. and really looked at the clutching. the alignment was off some but not bad. the deflection was spot on. I looked at hcs axys site for what others were having for issue's. but the coolant leak got me thinking? did something get over heated? so with a heat gun I started taking temps. the coolant by-pass hose was hot all the time. along with the throttle body heated hose and the ones coming out of the cylinders by the ex. valves. this can't be right. this sled did run hotter then mime in the same conditions but not overly hot. I looked at the parts break down. the t-stat looks like it should block off the by-pass? I pulled it and tested. it opened when it should. so I replaced it. I plugged the by-pass hose from the head under the motor back to the pump. the sled was then taken by the owner and riden this way.(week-end) no issue what's so ever. 200+ miles. he returned it to me. coolant bottle was way down? air trapped somewhere I would suspect? I removed the plugged coolant by-pass. (really was just the hose pinched off to stop the flow) so no coolant was lost by what I did. added coolant. and sent him on his way. over 800 miles of trouble free performance since. so what happened here? my guess was air trapped in the head? causing minor det the the ecu was trying to correct? but nothing shows up on the dw.( this sled has been on the dw a # of times.) the sled did show over heat a couple of times? but before his issue? other then this I don't have any other fade or low rpm experience. so here is a case that baffles me. and the dealer as what was really going on. this is why I believe there maybe more then one thing causing this true fade issue? and it very well could be a combination of things? I do agree that the sleds that have been under achieving from day one very well could be a poor fitting pipe and the tps out a bit combined with poor clutching (belt heat, slipping, etc.) I agree that the pro-s axys sleds are over geared and the clutching is way off. the pro-x is way better. not perfect but the lower gearing masks some of the poor clutching.

I believe all these things I have mentioned throughout this site is related to rpm loss and this so called fade internet name. I've seen it first hand on the dyno and digital wrench. That's why I recorded the digital wrench, so I could play back in slo-mo to see whats going on when on the dyno.

IF you take all these things into consideration:

- clutching that's not properly set up
-TPS out of wack
-ex valve travel not correct
-bad pipe seal
-track tension/chain tension to tight
-bad fuel mileage
-huge oil consumption
-fouled plugs
-belt slippage
-clutch heat (primary always hotter then secondary)
-ex valves not fully opening cause of TPS or ??
-stock clutching makes it worse
-stock gearing(pro s) makes it worse
-incorrect throttle adjustment
ETC.....................................

All these things lead to a bad running sled.
Like RPM loss and RPM fade

EG- TPS not set properly and on the rich side(fouled plugs, add a bad pipe seal.) Now we have a huge problem that can be intermittent. Bad pipe seal equals raw fuel going through,add tps being on the rich side and your down on RPM and could bounce around when you get some pipe heat and have some power. Hit it again and the pipe seal isnt' holding the pipe heat and bang, rpm fade/loss

That's one thing, I have tons more of explanations:cool:
 
IMAG0489_BURST002_COVER.jpg
IMAG0488.jpg


Here's something also with some pipes.
This pipe is slightly touching/hitting bulkhead. You can see the marks on pipe and bulkhead.
This will definitely cause a bad seal as your going through the chatters and bumps.
QC needs to improve from Polaris, its not just about the bottom line. All the manufacturers have poor qc but keep upping their prices.:mad:
 
Seems I was misinformed back in September 2014 about the clutch sheave degree angle. I was told by a Polaris tech it was a straight 13 degrees, that totals 26 degrees.

It's not, it's a straight 13.5 degree that totals 27 degrees.

I was only passing on info that I was told , sorry for any confusion.Banghead

For years it's been multi-angle 12- 14 degrees.

Anyways it's a total of 27 not 26 degrees.Banghead
 
hi i am new to this forum is funny you guys talks about those rpm fade issues with the axys i have a 2015 sba 800 (old proride chassis) and i have the same problem and my dealer checked every thing tps. exh valve, piston , clutching , engine mount ect... and they cant find nothing wrong.my problem is when my sled is cold like all night for the first around 20 min drive in trail on\off throttle i see 8300-8400 set at 8200 perfect but after that (and its worse the trail is a little softer) it drops to 7800-7900 and you can feel like the timing pulls like it hesitate on the handlebar , but if i stop and let it cool down like 30 min and go back again its the same story. i am always running my scratchers i have 2 inch track 20-42 stock gearing and i never exeed 122-126F on trails. do you guys have seen that before ?
 
hi i am new to this forum is funny you guys talks about those rpm fade issues with the axys i have a 2015 sba 800 (old proride chassis) and i have the same problem and my dealer checked every thing tps. exh valve, piston , clutching , engine mount ect... and they cant find nothing wrong.my problem is when my sled is cold like all night for the first around 20 min drive in trail on\off throttle i see 8300-8400 set at 8200 perfect but after that (and its worse the trail is a little softer) it drops to 7800-7900 and you can feel like the timing pulls like it hesitate on the handlebar , but if i stop and let it cool down like 30 min and go back again its the same story. i am always running my scratchers i have 2 inch track 20-42 stock gearing and i never exeed 122-126F on trails. do you guys have seen that before ?

Clutches aligned? Belt/sheave heat?

What do you clean belt and clutches with?

Sacked primary spring ?
Sacked secondary spring?

Track tension?
 
thks for your reply i think i found my problem i had a loose fitting from the actuator to my exhaust valve rpm was little better but still lost a little rpm afterwards, i put a gates C belt and i have all my rpm back again btw i always clean my clutch with soap and water. i heard good things about gate belt they stick way better then 1115 and i approve
 
thks for your reply i think i found my problem i had a loose fitting from the actuator to my exhaust valve rpm was little better but still lost a little rpm afterwards, i put a gates C belt and i have all my rpm back again btw i always clean my clutch with soap and water. i heard good things about gate belt they stick way better then 1115 and i approve
The 115 is not used on an AXYS sled the 177 is just to clear that up.
 
Got a swb aslt 17 and seems like as soon as it came off break in mode 12ish hours what they say I'm losing rpms also sometimes it'll climb to 78 7900 drop to 74 7600 and climb back to 7900 was turning a constant 82 8300 while in break in .... dealer gonna check deflection but I think it's more than clutching maybe not enough fuel or wrong timing after break in ends
 
Pipe heat, cvt system are the major causes of loss of rpm or issues . There is more. But these two are the major ones.

Example:
Trail riding with low heat in pipe and belt slipping at very top of primary (full shift out) is more common than people know. This will cause loss of rpm big time and change motor tone while doing it.

No heat or proper pipe heat what's desired causes timing to be retarded, add belt slipping and it compounds .
 
Pipe heat, cvt system are the major causes of loss of rpm or issues . There is more. But these two are the major ones.

Example:
Trail riding with low heat in pipe and belt slipping at very top of primary (full shift out) is more common than people know. This will cause loss of rpm big time and change motor tone while doing it.

No heat or proper pipe heat what's desired causes timing to be retarded, add belt slipping and it compounds .
What would you think about taking heat shield off and wrapping the pipe ? Clutching was good but belt was maybe worn a bit only 400 miles on it but was some glazing and gates belts aren't available till further notice from dealer hear there "better" than factory
 
Leave heat shield on .

Glazed belts by Polaris usually slip up top in primary. Washing and scuffing sides of belts and clutch sheaves does help slippage though.
 
Leave heat shield on .

Glazed belts by Polaris usually slip up top in primary. Washing and scuffing sides of belts and clutch sheaves does help slippage though.
Yeah usually scuff clutches every couple hundred miles and belt ...did have to relearn the power valves so maybe that was one of my problems
 
Pipe heat, cvt system are the major causes of loss of rpm or issues . There is more. But these two are the major ones.

Example:
Trail riding with low heat in pipe and belt slipping at very top of primary (full shift out) is more common than people know. This will cause loss of rpm big time and change motor tone while doing it.

No heat or proper pipe heat what's desired causes timing to be retarded, add belt slipping and it compounds .
Welll dealer relearned power valves,tps, deflection, sled was back to normal actually turning more rpms then ever sled hit 26 hours back to square one running an average 7100 rpm , once in a blue moon it will run 8000... not very impressed if I'm gonna have to screw with tps and valves every 12/13 hours any familiar situations??
 


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