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My take on AXYS down HP/fade

I had a bad cable from the actuator to valves. When the engine started, the actuator would try to cycle and couldn't fully open the valves to Stage 3. No codes. That became the NEW Full open. Cable was corroded inside.
 
Dustin plourde said:
Welll dealer relearned power valves,tps, deflection, sled was back to normal actually turning more rpms then ever sled hit 26 hours back to square one running an average 7100 rpm , once in a blue moon it will run 8000... not very impressed if I'm gonna have to screw with tps and valves every 12/13 hours any familiar situations??
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What's your suspension set up?

Clutch set up?

Gear ratio?

Clutches aligned ?

Leaky exhaust?
 
Brock said:
What's your suspension set up?

Clutch set up?

Gear ratio?

Clutches aligned ?

Leaky exhaust?
Click to expand...
Suspension is a 144 w 2" didn't tuck limiters track tension good
Clutch primary 70-80 cpc weights w 71g weight added at tip 140/275 white/gold spring secondary stock
Gear ratio 23/43
Clutches good
Last weekend sled turning 8300 climbing to 84-8450 I know it's supposed to be 8250 but in deep snow that's what it turns so on trail it's a little high rpm but this weekend I literally lost 1500 rpm sometimes sometimes turn 7 sometimes turn 7200 and gradually climb to 7600 had valves reprogrammed AGAIN and now turning 7600 climbing to 78-7900 but didn't check tps but wtf don't want to have to relearn valves and tps every 300 miles ?
 
Your biggest problem is the primary weight your using ,tip weight and the primary spring. You have it set to load motor hard and need perfect hero snow to make it rev properly.
You got those weights loading motor hard cause of profile, then your loading it even harder with tip weight , then using a soft primary spring on top(275).

Your set up needs to change a little and be more trail friendly. This is the problem I see so far, not your valves.
 
Just read a post yesterday about the same situation, someone put a borescope down and had a look at the Exhaust valve position while hooked up to the digital wrench. Although the Digital wrench was saying the valves were in the proper position, the bore scope showed differently. They backed off the nut, adjusted the cable until the exhaust valve was flush and tightened the nut back up. Digital wrench never changed. Ran the sled again and proper rpms and much stronger.
 
This senerio has been a suspect in our loop since early 15 season. My buddy was designing a device that would monitor the valves for full open position that the rider could directly observe and then correlate to how the sled was performing. It kinda went the wayside since the 16-17 have been so much better and most sleds were fixed via tps cvt etc. maybe time to revisit this device .
 
Not where ecm says they are but where they are mechanically.
 
What dealers aren't performing is the:

E-VES Cable Full-In to Full-Out Travel: Approximately.63 –.71″ (16 -18 mm )
This is critical .
 
Brock said:
Your biggest problem is the primary weight your using ,tip weight and the primary spring. You have it set to load motor hard and need perfect hero snow to make it rev properly.
You got those weights loading motor hard cause of profile, then your loading it even harder with tip weight , then using a soft primary spring on top(275).

Your set up needs to change a little and be more trail friendly. This is the problem I see so far, not your valves.
Click to expand...
What's your suggestion for primary I just find it weird how pulled awesome then didn't and reset valves/tps then pulled back to normal and back to shit snow/ridding didn't change or clutching just curious why it would go outta wack
 
Dustin plourde said:
Suspension is a 144 w 2" didn't tuck limiters track tension good
Clutch primary 70-80 cpc weights w 71g weight added at tip 140/275 white/gold spring secondary stock
Gear ratio 23/43
Clutches good
Last weekend sled turning 8300 climbing to 84-8450 I know it's supposed to be 8250 but in deep snow that's what it turns so on trail it's a little high rpm but this weekend I literally lost 1500 rpm sometimes sometimes turn 7 sometimes turn 7200 and gradually climb to 7600 had valves reprogrammed AGAIN and now turning 7600 climbing to 78-7900 but didn't check tps but wtf don't want to have to relearn valves and tps every 300 miles ?
Click to expand...
Which Cutler weights do u have? IT's or TM's ??

What's your elevation?

Rider weight?
 
Dustin plourde said:
Polaris 70-80
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That's to heavy of a base weight. I see what's going on now.
Your rpm is way down sometimes cuz your set up has to have perfect conditions to get proper rpm( hero snow or ice). Warmer temps or heavier snow will bring your rpm down very low cuz of this aggressive set up. I don't think you have a valve problem?

The weight you have needs to be near 60-62 grams base weight (up shifts so quick)
Putting in a 70 gram base weight and only one gram added ain't gonna work with the cpc ITs profile.

Do you have anymore weights to try?
 
Brock said:
That's to heavy of a base weight. I see what's going on now.
Your rpm is way down sometimes cuz your set up has to have perfect conditions to get proper rpm( hero snow or ice). Warmer temps or heavier snow will bring your rpm down very low cuz of this aggressive set up. I don't think you have a valve problem?

The weight you have needs to be near 60-62 grams base weight (up shifts so quick)
Putting in a 70 gram base weight and only one gram added ain't gonna work with the cpc ITs profile.

Do you have anymore weights to try?
Click to expand...
Well it's none of the above dealer tried different clutches temp sensor exhaust sensor valves tps same thing motor is coming apart Monday as soon as they get pistons and a block in there was 11 over heat codes but only one showed up on dummy light and honestly thumb is constantly flicking through speed and temp so not sure how this happened but I know they run better around 120-130 degrees so I keep an eye on it not sure what to say kinda mad that I only saw light once and temp never seemed to get hot
 
Dustin plourde said:
Well it's none of the above dealer tried different clutches temp sensor exhaust sensor valves tps same thing motor is coming apart Monday as soon as they get pistons and a block in there was 11 over heat codes but only one showed up on dummy light and honestly thumb is constantly flicking through speed and temp so not sure how this happened but I know they run better around 120-130 degrees so I keep an eye on it not sure what to say kinda mad that I only saw light once and temp never seemed to get hot
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Well, the way your clutch set up you mentioned isn't helping rpm.
11 over heat codes??
The sled doesn't throw a code till over 185-195 usually. How did it get that hot 11 times?
 
They ordered it in case because another sled around had same problems and tops of pistons were mushroomed and slight scaring...not sure on over heating only saw light one time and never seemed to run hot so not sure if it is running hot and temp isn't accurate or what but something that needs to be looked into ....weird cause the wife has a 16 pro s and it runs like a top And I've done a lot of my ridding with her..and my clutching works 100% for my ridding style when the sled runs like it should when a 144 with a 2" is dead nut to a 850 129 with 1 3/4 I'd say that's getting power to ground
 
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Well getting that hot 11 times will definitely hurt your motor for sure.
Hopefully just spec cylinder,scuff it and put in new pistons.

Mix 100:1 fuel/oil for break in and hammer on it .
 
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