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Need help dialing in the team tied

Go back to the SSI weights with new bushings, get your baseline performance back with the TSS 04, then make one change at a time, Tied secondary 1st, then change you weights to BMP and tune magnets until your back to running good, You made too many changes and now your out of the comfort zone. IMHO
 
I have been making 1 change at a time. Thats why i have so many extra parts so i can just sit in my garage and change something and go out on my lake and test and pull right back in. Problem is nothing is changing
 
I agree, I would go back to what was working last year including the TSS-04. Then, once you get consistent RPM's back throw in the Team Tied to see what impact that makes and adjust magnets in weights to get the RPM's you need.

Does the TSS-04 and Team Tied run the same secondary springs?
 
trdehmer said:
I agree, I would go back to what was working last year including the TSS-04. Then, once you get consistent RPM's back throw in the Team Tied to see what impact that makes and adjust magnets in weights to get the RPM's you need.

Does the TSS-04 and Team Tied run the same secondary springs?
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Plus 1 on this.
 
The problem is im not running the same track and studs as last year so my last years setup isnt gonna work just like it did last year
 
proS800 said:
The problem is im not running the same track and studs as last year so my last years setup isnt gonna work just like it did last year
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Well if you don't think so and are determined to run different weights, take your BMP weights and take 3 grams out of them . Remove ,1 gram from the 2 hole from the tip and 2 grams from the 3 hole from the tip, primary spring 140/320. Tied 64-60 ,155-222 spring. Bottom line your rpm's are down.
 
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I vote for putting the 10 series wts back in to decrease the number of variables you have to deal with.
 
10-70 would be a good start with the lighter secondary spring.
 
You need more primary spring period , you will chase your tail till you do it , the tied shifts so much faster , you need too slow it down and putting in a huge secondary spring isn't the answer ..
 
flasch192 said:
You need more primary spring period , you will chase your tail till you do it , the tied shifts so much faster , you need too slow it down and putting in a huge secondary spring isn't the answer ..
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Which Primary? I thought he tried a 340 finish already?
 
He stated he had a 140-320 to start. That should be enough to start with. I believe a lot are using 120-310. Going back to the 10 series profile and use a stiffer secondary spring such as a 140-220 or a 160-240. IMO you need to get back to something the pulls reasonable rpm, and than start changing things one at a time.
 
Ok so i kinda of switched some stuff around today.
1.68 gearing for 1.325 cobra track
140/340 spring
70 gram epi belly busters
155/222 spring
66/62 helix
Rpms would come in at 79-8,000 then just stay at 8,100..... put in the 140/320 spring and rpms dropped to 7,700 rpms.
 
proS800 said:
Trying to get this clutching and gearing dialed in.... heres the setup right now
140/320 spring with bikeman 10 series profile weights, 140-200 spring with 64-60 helix, 1.74 gearing. Track is 1.35 cobra with 168 lake racing studs. She hooks

Right now i cant seem to pull good rpm. Its like it shift to fast or something and ill loose rpms after i wavk it to wot and it just can never recover. I had weights in 2,2,2,1 and rpm was 8100 then tried 2,2,3,2 and rpm dropped to 7800-7900.
I have primary springs, 140/310, 140/330,140/340 also i can try and 155-222 and 160-240 for secondary springs. Also the other side of the helix is 66-62 also
Any tips please!!!!
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See in quoted Red numbers...Are you loading the weight numbers left to right heel to tip?? If so...there is your rpm drop. I would try 2,3,1,1 with that same primary spring in there. I really love these weights...took a bit of playing with springs and weight position.
 
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I think my problem is just to much helix with all the traction im getting so its just loading it in every spot
 
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