• We have updated the site to the latest version. You will be required to log in to make sure your account is active. There are quite a few new functions so it will take a little time to get use to it. Please post if you see or have any issues.

NOOOOOB

J

Jimisawesome

New Member
Messages
8
Age
34
Location
Billings
Country
USA
Years Snowmobiling
1
Snowmobile
2007 Polaris RMK 600 HO 155
Hey everyone! My family has moved to Montana and just picked up a sled! I have never riden a snowmobile before but have riden quads and motorcycles my whole life. (Never lived close enough snow trails or anything like that). I just picked up an RMK 600 HO 155. I've been told it's not really a beginner sled which is fine (can grow into it). More importantly it is not running. Looks like it needs new piston rod and was broken down by a shop. I have started cleaning up all the components and engine bay however I'm need of some guidance.

A). I am trying to find out exactly what sled I have. I found a model number decoder somewhere online but cannot locate now. It broke each section of the number down and had a legend.

B). I am leaning towards buying some of the tools I need to pull bearings from crankshaft. Then install new piston and press the bearing back on. I know I have to time and true the shaft but am somewhat confused(for now) on how exactly I do that. Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!! Cheers


Jimbo
 
Send the crank out to a pro for rod installation and truing. If it was just end bearings I’d say have at it. But you really want a pro to rebuild the crank. Then just put it back together yourself if you feel up to task. If your gonna do basic stuff yourself you will need a clutch puller for that model , a flywheel puller and a torque wrench. Other than that basic hand tools get the job done. What shape is the cyl in? How about the head ? Ck the cases for cracks also it’s not uncommon for a thrown rod to crack the case. I would say a 600 is a good starter sled. They only goes as fast as you want them to.
 
Hey Lid1 thanks for the reply. The head and cylinders look fine. The case itself looks fine. There is a little scoring where the rod was rubbing but not anything noticeable beyond that. I haven't inspected too closely yet. In the process of cleaning each component and such. Is the flywheel and clutch puller specific to this engine or can you do it with any. I've been in contact with Starting line Products in Idaho Falls as far as the crankshaft is concerned so I'm leaning towards just doing that and otherwise finishing the job myself. I'll have some questions down the line in sure so thankyou much for the advise!
 
The clutch pullers have specific applications . They are about 30 bucks. Flywheel pullers are generally run of the mill and a few different designs work fine. Not the claw type.
 
Thanks for the info. I'm getting my crankshaft trued. Once I get it back what would I need to do as far as lubrication. Do I pack all the bearings with grease, etc?
 
No. Don’t pack the bearings with grease. You can apply some 2 stroke oil to them. Just don’t get crazy with it as you want to make sure your case halves are clean and dry when you apply the case sealer. You don’t want any oil on the flanges. I like yamabond. And make sure you put the crank seals in the right way. I’ve seen an engine where they were installed backwards. Not good. Apply 2 stroke oil to the upper rod bearings and a liberal Amount on pistons and rings when putting on cyl. Premix first tank of fuel. And make sure all air is out of oil lines before running straight fuel and oil injection only. When you install head o rings you may need to use a lil dab of anabolic sealer just to hold the prints from popping out. Make sure you drop the head on flat and true as to not upset the o rings. Torque in sequence on to proper spec. After the base is assembled some people pour just a bit of 2 stroke oil in the case voids . I personally don’t do this and haven’t had any issues but I know some guys that do it without any neg. effects.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Lid1 for all the advise. I really appreciate it. Still a long way to go but can't wait to get out on the snow!
 
Gasket2

Gasket2

Gaskets

Gaskets


Hey all I'm looking for some help identifying these gaskets. 2007 Polaris rmk 600 HO IQ 155

I know the big rings are for the jugs but I'm not sure as to the smaller ones and green ones!

Thanks!!
 
How about inner compression o rings, outer water jacket o rings, thermostat ring , and if I remember correctly that is a 4 injector engine so That’s the home for the green ones. I believe I remember seeing green on injectors before. Don’t just go by what I say make sure you match them up on install wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong .always pays to match em up and inspect the new ones for deformities , nicks , cracks etc
 
Last edited:
Lid1 said:
How about inner compression o rings, outer water jacket o rings, thermostat ring , and if I remember correctly that is a 4 injector engine so That’s the home for the green ones. I believe I remember seeing green on injectors before. Don’t just go by what I say make sure you match them up on install wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong .always pays to match em up and inspect the new ones for deformities , nicks , cracks etc
Click to expand...
My machine is carbureted so those might have been thrown in just for the heck of it? The two by themselves at the top look like my crank seals but considerably smaller. And I feel like a complete dummy to ask but when you say inner compression o rings and water jacket o rings where exactly would those go? I bought this engine in pieces so I've never actually seen it when it was all together. (I wouldve taken lot of picture haha). Thanks again lid!!
 
Hmmmm. I still think they are for injectors that you don’t have . So could very well be safe with extra parts for various sledsor could be set is for a different year. On top of the cyl there should be an outer o-ring groove that goes on outside of water ports 1 each cyl. Then on top of cyl there is a smaller O ring groove that goes around the out side of cyl sleeve head drops down on them stopping water from getting out or in and compression.
 
Thanks for the info that's what I was figuring. I just set the crank in the case yesterday.. you suggested a puller for the flywheel and clutch. Do you need pullers to reinstall?
 
No. Pullers needed for reinstall just torque specs. For primary bolt and flywheel. Should be a key way in there also. Clutch is just on a taper. So torque it to spec. Run it around a lil. And then retorque to same spec.
 
The orings that are about 1.5 inchs in diameter go around the raised portion of the head the spark plug screws into, They seal to the head cover, to keep coolant from spraying out from that area.,
 
Hey Do do any of you know where to put the engine isolator limiter? I'm not sure where it mounts. All of the diagrams just show it and that's it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom