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Real World Test Results

Ru4real

Ru4real

Member
Messages
46
Location
Minnesota
Country
USA
Years Snowmobiling
I dunno. A bunch.
Snowmobile
2016 Rush Pro-S 800
Sled is a 2016 Polaris Rush Pro-S 800. Filled with 91 octane Non-Oxy and Polaris VES Gold. 200 lb rider. All stock except as follows and noted. Testing on lake with 1 inch packed frozen powder, 1320 ft (1/4 mile) track, 1400 ft elevation.

Non-Stock stuff: Stud boy 6" shapers, 84 Woodys down middle Rip 2 track, Primary balanced and machined by Indy Specialties, Delrin washers in secondary, 70g EPI Belly Buster weights in primary, Pro-X FTS spring.

Test 1 at 24 deg F with 24T / 36B gears for 1.50 ratio, Team Black 155 / 222 Secondary Spring. Results are 85 mph indicated at 8300 rpm with 3/4" sharpie mark left on primary. Reached top speed and rpm in about 1000 feet.

Test 2 at 28 deg F with 24T / 36B gears, Stock Blue/Black 123 / 203 Secondary Spring. Results are 90 mph indicated at 8000 rpm with 1/2" sharpie left. Reached top speed and rpm in about 1000 feet.

Test 3 at 21 deg F with Stock 23T / 37B gears for 1.61 ratio, Stock secondary spring. Results are 104 mph and 8250 rpm in 1320 ft. Didn't reach top speed or rpm in 1320, still climbing. Last 1/8" of sharpie was faint but visible.

I will leave post 1 with just the facts to keep the post short(er).
 
Last edited:
Getting faster as you gear lower .
Keep going
 
New sled: 2017 Switchback Pro-S LE with a Cobra track (1.68) 96 studs (1.325 ) ... is there such a difference with a ratio 1.74 ....stock i start faster than a 137 850 but it doesn't take long to "Bye Bye "..and hurt my pride....so where to begin??
 
How many miles on your sled so far. It takes a bit for them to loosen up. Not only engine but track etc. I was hard on mine from the second I pulled it from crate but it still took a couple hundred miles to settle In an at 300 miles it's still getting faster . If it hasn't already let it settle in then assess where your at and how much ground you need to make up and where. It's gonna develop its own personality so to speak . They are all the same but different. Or you could just do an 860bb or 840 stroker and level the playing field. Lol
 
Also there are a lot of good tips on here on clutching and pipes etc. but don't forget to play the game handicap yourself remember you have the smaller sled. By handicap I mean make sure you have a hot pipe figure out the strong areas of your sled and the weak areas of his. Maybe yours launches like an animal in cold hardback and his spins. You pick the race and distance and conditions which best suit you not him. If you launch hard don't ever do a roll on. Make the do it from the dig. Keep it to 700ft Or 1000 if that works better for you. Play the game. And don't ever waver from it if your ego is at risk. I've beat tons of faster sleds over the years by playing yo my strong suits and capitalizing on thier weekness. For example when I had a 1.75 track and low gears I would call them out in an area that wasn't to long in soft snow conditions where studs wouldn't help and the shorterlugs spin. Jump them so far they can't run you down before the race is over. Idk sorry about the losing post .
 
Ps. If you see a guy with a big paddle track make the race longer you will run them down and drive by.
 
Daniel F said:
New sled: 2017 Switchback Pro-S LE with a Cobra track (1.68) 96 studs (1.325 ) ... is there such a difference with a ratio 1.74 ....stock i start faster than a 137 850 but it doesn't take long to "Bye Bye "..and hurt my pride....so where to begin??
Click to expand...

It's your clutching not reaching its full shift out. No biggie. Also ,track tension and belt deflection have a huge roll in why your not getting full shift out and being passed .

I can try and help.

What's your elevation? Rider weight ?


PS, those aren't long enough for cobra track bud
 
Ru4real said:
Sled is a 2016 Polaris Rush Pro-S 800. Filled with 91 octane Non-Oxy and Polaris VES Gold. 200 lb rider. All stock except as follows and noted. Testing on lake with 1 inch packed frozen powder, 1320 ft (1/4 mile) track, 1400 ft elevation.

Non-Stock stuff: Stud boy 6" shapers, 84 Woodys down middle Rip 2 track, Primary balanced and machined by Indy Specialties, Delrin washers in secondary, 70g EPI Belly Buster weights in primary, Pro-X FTS spring.

Test 1 at 24 deg F with 24T / 36B gears for 1.50 ratio, Team Black 155 / 222 Secondary Spring. Results are 85 mph indicated at 8300 rpm with 3/4" sharpie mark left on primary. Reached top speed and rpm in about 1000 feet.

Test 2 at 28 deg F with 24T / 36B gears, Stock Blue/Black 123 / 203 Secondary Spring. Results are 90 mph indicated at 8000 rpm with 1/2" sharpie left. Reached top speed and rpm in about 1000 feet.

Test 3 at 21 deg F with Stock 23T / 37B gears for 1.61 ratio, Stock secondary spring. Results are 104 mph and 8250 rpm in 1320 ft. Didn't reach top speed or rpm in 1320, still climbing. Last 1/8" of sharpie was faint but visible.

I will leave post 1 with just the facts to keep the post short(er).
Click to expand...
weaker spring in secondary helped a lot, as did gearing ,go deeper..
 
Brock said:
Getting faster as you gear lower .
Keep going
Click to expand...

Agree.

The 90 mph indicated in test 2 was really about 95. In test 2 I ran against my kid on our XC700 which radars at 93 +-1mph in 1000 feet. Consistent for years and years, any rider 125 to 250 lbs. Can set your watch to it consistent. I beat him in test 2 and he's 135 lbs.

My intent was to make 24/36 gearing work. Then I broke two miles of trail in the woods. And the clutch was way way to hot for my liking. Burn your hand hot. Not a compromise I'm willing to live with so I went back to stock because I couldn't find a 22T during the holiday.
 
Just a tip.

Anything in the 1.6 ratio isn't that good for the straight 27 degree primary on the axys. Just my opinion.
 
Ok ..first i will change gears and chain to gent the magic 1.74 ratio...change studs for 1.375 (1.450 supposely not recommanded) and will nées to add weights i already rev 8400-8450....for trail riding better with a 48/44 f or 50/44 f and appropriate sprints...don't want to change pipe/can ..any good Polaris tuner in province of Quebec ???
 
Daniel, did you make changes and run against that 850 doo again?
 
Daniel F said:
New sled: 2017 Switchback Pro-S LE with a Cobra track (1.68) 96 studs (1.325 ) ... is there such a difference with a ratio 1.74 ....stock i start faster than a 137 850 but it doesn't take long to "Bye Bye "..and hurt my pride....so where to begin??
Click to expand...
Your not getting your 1:1 ratio or over drive in clutching,that's all. More primary weight will help this, along with belt to sheave no more than 0.015", clutch alignment, proper washer thickness behind secondary, more float. . The 1.68 ratio is OK, I just suggest a 1.73 or 1.74 ratios .
 
Happy New Year everyone...changes have not been done...was waiting to get more kms so that my engine will loosen up...now 600 kms when i snap on loose snow 8550-8500...on hard pack snow 8400-8350...i don't know if my 2 delrin washers affect the secondary spring rate and cause a bit of this....will begin by asking my dealer (i'm no mechanic ) to add some weight or change for 10/68...will now take my time to feel every change Howard it affects...for the 850 on loose snow i'm not near but on hard pack snow when rolling it is closer at my surprise!... this thursday a little visit to my dealership to check track and belt tension...weights...float ....etc .One thing i can say my Polaris is more connected..stable in moguls than the 850 !!!
 
I think you could easily pull 10-70's. EPI belly buster 10-70's are the same exact profile as your 10-66's heel to tip. I bought my EPI's off Amazon on seller discontinue for about half price of the Polaris 10's.
 
I don't thing the belly busters and the 10 series are exactly the same. There must be some small difference. I had 10-68's in a sled and then put the 68 belly busters in and it just killed the rpm's on hole shots. No other changes. Was surprised there was that much difference and couldn't find any other contributing factors.
 
I'm gonna ask my dealer about 68s or even 70s since I'm a light guy. Right now it'll hit 8400 no problem with the occasional flash of an 8500 on a throttle stab
 
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No heating element out where my pinky finger rides.
 
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I pulled off the heaters and put 25mm heat shrink over the entire handle bar.
 
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I had to remove a section of heat shrink where throttle goes. Put heaters on top of heat shrink. Rode 4 hours at -10F today. Riding on trails I ran heaters on low today. Much improved. Same general idea as the cork but a little cheaper. One meter of 25mm heat shrink was 5 bucks.
 
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