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Rookie Test and Tune

coryatver

coryatver

Active Member
Messages
397
Location
PA
Specs
2016 Polaris Rush Pro S 800 LE
-Bikeman Pipe
-Bikeman Y pipe
-Bikeman Bullydog tune
-SLP intake
-Gates Belt
-SSI Clutch kit
125-310
145-225
50-44 helix
70.5 g weights 3 2 2 magnets
-1.73 gear ratio
-cobra track 1.325
-168 studs. doubles 4 per row 1.375 stud boy

Test track was soft wet snow across field that I ran tracks on and packed in.

I am not much of a tuner but last weekend I got my Butt handed to me by a etec 800 bad. And my buddies cat 800 was only a sled length behind. My sled does not rev out like it should. I had a SSI pipe mod and it would rev out but had bad DET issues so I got a Bikeman pipe. It does not rev out unless I have a long run.
 
I did 3 runs. I did data logs with the bullydog, and got GPS speed with a garmin. My test track wasn't the longest or best conditions but it is what I had to work with.

1st run
Setup as it was for baseline
run1data.jpg

IMG_3917.JPG
2nd run
flipped helix from 50-44 to 48-44
run2.jpg


3rd run
reflashed bullydog with hotter tune
run3helixtune.jpg

IMG_3920.JPG
 
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Figured I would post this some of you might find it interesting or have some advice. I'm not an expert but I believe I'm not reving out enough at only about 8000 rpm at 85 mph and my pipe temp is only 1000 F? I'm thinking I need to remove some magnets from my weights or try some less aggressive weights
 
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You need to be revving 8400 with bmp pipe .

So, I'm assuming u have the ssi weights?

Leave everything you have in and only change one thing. Go down 2 grams in primary. So go 2,2,1. Instead of 3,2,2. Try that. That should get your rpm up 400.

Do you have 0.060" float in from tool and 0.060" float out from tool for a total of 0.120". This is very important for top speed.

Let ur track free hang 5/8 -3/4"
 
Yes I have ssi weights. My track is adjusted loose.

I do not have access to a clutch tool. I noticed I have 3 washers under secondary clutch bolt. Can I take one out for more play?

Brock said:
You need to be revving 8400 with bmp pipe .

So, I'm assuming u have the ssi weights?

Leave everything you have in and only change one thing. Go down 2 grams in primary. So go 2,2,1. Instead of 3,2,2. Try that. That should get your rpm up 400.

Do you have 0.060" float in from tool and 0.060" float out from tool for a total of 0.120". This is very important for top speed.

Let ur track free hang 5/8 -3/4"
Click to expand...
 
coryatver said:
Yes I have ssi weights. My track is adjusted loose.

I do not have access to a clutch tool. I noticed I have 3 washers under secondary clutch bolt. Can I take one out for more play?
Click to expand...
I'd agree that your rpms are way low for a piped 800 so ya, lighten up your adjustable weights a bit like Brock said.

If you want to increase your secondary float you have to ADD a small washer (same diameter as the machined spacer...) under the bolt and/or REMOVE a washer from behind the secondary on the jack shaft. Be careful though, you need a minimum amount of spacer behind the secondary so it doesn't rub the bearing retainer or tunnel.
 
Thanks I will have to find a clutch tool. Is there aftermarket ones available or just Polaris's expensive one?

What's easiest way to change weights can I leave clutch on and take cover and spring out?
 
Or, just take primary cover off. We do it that way all the time on trail too. That way u can pull weights out easy .
It's just spring pressure to put cover back on,no biggy. So if u wanna do it know, u can.
Slp does sell a clamp though to change weights.
 
Ok I think I will add some float and remove magnets. Snow is all gone now though dang it. I need it running better for tug hill next week end. I need to pull weight for sure though
 
I can confirm SSI weights at 2/2/1 should pull 8300-8400. About 68.8 grams.
 
There is guy on Facebook group that is using 2 1 1 with bmp stage 3. But I will try 2 2 1 first. First number being heel right?

Anyone do any testing with bmp y pipe? How it works compared to stock? There is one guy on Facebook group with video showing how it doesn't seal correct. I need to look at mine.
 
i don't agree with the magnet set -up, my choice would be leave the base weight at 3 , drop middle to 1 and leave tip at 2 first. taking out the base weight wont affect the top rpm issue. If it still will not turn rpm I would go 3,0,1.this all with the 48-44 helix ,and put a 120-220 spring in it the 145 start is to much spring for the 48 IMO.
 
That's the thing about clutching.
There will be differences, but get you a good outcome .
 
Actually have 3 2 0 in it .... I guess I'm going to try 3 1 0. That is SSI recommended for stock.. apparently my sled isn't making any power with all the bmp stuff
 
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Behind secondary there are 2 washers that are each 1/8 thick. What is min you can do?
 
Not necessarily Cory.
Just lighten up primary and lighten up secondary spring as doc said.

Can I ask if ur stud backers are in path of front drivers?? If there not flush perfectly or to tight(track bulges) this will slow u down too. Caught this on a buddies sled. Every little bit of freeing up resistance/ friction helps
 
I do have studs there but I went threw and re tightened them earlier this year they are flush as I can get. Good info though.
 
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