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Setup For My First Sled - 16' 800 Rush LTD

Black Mamba

Black Mamba

Member
Messages
47
Age
42
Location
Illinois
I’ve been riding for years but my buddy always had a loner for me. 700SRX, Vector, Apex, Skidoo Rev XP and Nytro. As you can see I never really had a reason to buy one if he was going to let me ride these. All I had to do was work on the sleds with him. Which I did anyways and who doesn’t like wrenching on toys while drinking a few sodas.

Last January 3 friends and myself decided to go to the UP and one of the sleds was having issues. One day at the dealer and thought it was fixed, then the issues came back the next day. Now we’re sitting around the cabin and my buddy, that loans the sleds, started saying I should buy the sled I was talking about so much. I was eyeing the Rush for some time and he was working me over pretty good. One thing led to another and there I was giving my credit information over the phone to pick up a brand new Rush 800 LTD the next morning. Named her Black Mamba. Figured it was fitting because it’s the fastest snake in the world and deadly! haha

Now that I have my own I’ve been doing a lot of reading about the Rush and what it needs to perform like it should. The only thing is my buddy never made a single adjustment to any of his clutches throughout the years. I feel I’ve been able to get a good understanding of clutches but need a little assistance and recommendations. Below I’ve listed some of the improvements I’d like to make. It would be awesome if the knowledgeable minds on this sight can provide guidance.

16’ Rush 800 LTD - 900 Miles on it
Corner to Corner speed. Not worried much about lake runs.
100% trail
Cobra track not studded
245lbs not dressed. Guessing 265-270 with gear.
Love breaking hard into corners, turn and shoot.
I tend to bottom the rear shock more than others. Doesn’t matter what sled I’m on.

Parts I’m going to purchase unless there are better recommendations. I’m not sure about the weights, both springs and helix. Should I purchase a few options for the springs and helix?

Gearing 1.73 22/38 - Bottom 3/4" hyvo 38 tooth from Goodwinperfomance.com
Front Track Shock Walker Evans 2.0 XCR
Rear Shock Pro-X spring
Secondary Team tied
Helix 64-60F / 66-62F
Spring 155 -222
Primary Weights - Indy Specialist – untucked, adjustable and a little more aggressive than stock
Balance and setup for gates belt –Indy Specialist
Spring 120-310
Gates Belt - 46C4387

Picture of my primary. Is this what everyone is talking about with smearing?

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I know the sled has been sitting but I’m wondering if you think this is a good reason to check the Y pipe?

upload_2016-8-14_16-34-10.png





Thanks for the great site and members. Can’t wait to ride the Black Mamba after I make these changes.
 

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I have the same sled. Black mamba is a cool nick name. Way better than skunk which the jealous guys in my group named mine lol

The setup you mentioned sounds great. Not sure on the clutching specs greek to me but everything else is looking great.

That is definitely the belt smearing people are talking about. Also you can tell that it has not been shifting out all the way the belt doesn't go all the way to the top of the clutch. Clean it off with a scotch bright pad

The 2017's have new capacitor setup not sure if you can update to the new design or not maybe you can look into it?

Mine was leaking black crap like that until after I got it broke in they really put the oil and fuel to them until after 18 hours. Also there is an ECU update for hard starting and rough idle issues.

I got clutching for mine and bikeman pipe and its definitely pulls harder pipe really helps these sleds out big time along with a power commander to bump up the timing a little bit really makes it run.
 
your set-up looks good. I would add the iqr roller chain adjuster to the list.also on the helix choise the angle with the 60 finish is to shallow I think.some conversion charts ive seen say 14 degrees higher when picking tied helixes.other ones said 18.the 66-62 on one ramp would be good and maybe 68-63 for the other ramp.On a separate note do you know Jim Jager?
 
spring choice on the rear is good I would have a couple others on hand 140-200, and 140-220. up front maybe consider a 140-300 area for slightly higher engagement.3800-4000 ish. if you like to tinker, magnet weights will be up your ally.if not, run the weights you have with slight modification and they will work just as good and you can keep a hundred bucks or so in your pocket..
 
I can see you need to torque your y pipe as its leaking. Seen a few of these and not being perfectly flat either. But the 0.070" thick gasket usually makes up for that. Polaris doesn't use loctite on these. I use blue loctite.

Your belt needs a scuff on the sides to grab as I can see it's probably slipping up top. Use purple scotch brite pads on belt and clutch sheaves.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I don't know Jim. Does he live around Rockford IL?

IQR roller,additional springs and helix angles have been added to the list.
I do like tinkering so I'll go with the adjustable weights.
Ditching the belt in the photo and running gates. Will check the Y pipe too.
I think I'm going with the stock capacitors, but $90 each is a bit steep.

Is it recommended to have the team tied balanced or are they good out of the box?
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
your set-up looks good. I would add the iqr roller chain adjuster to the list.also on the helix choise the angle with the 60 finish is to shallow I think.some conversion charts ive seen say 14 degrees higher when picking tied helixes.other ones said 18.the 66-62 on one ramp would be good and maybe 68-63 for the other ramp.On a separate note do you know Jim Jager?
Click to expand...
Dr, I've known Jim on a "How's it going?" basis since 98 or so. See him once or twice during the season.
 
Dr.Notadoo said:
spring choice on the rear is good I would have a couple others on hand 140-200, and 140-220. up front maybe consider a 140-300 area for slightly higher engagement.3800-4000 ish. if you like to tinker, magnet weights will be up your ally.if not, run the weights you have with slight modification and they will work just as good and you can keep a hundred bucks or so in your pocket..
Click to expand...

Doc, I was looking into the springs and I'm a little confused. On the primary I listed 120-310 and you suggested 140-220. I understand the starting rate effects engagement and I wouldn't mind a higher RPM. The 220 finish rate will allow me to add more weight?

For the secondary are you recommending I get 155-222, 140-200 and 140-220? The reason I listed the 155-222 was based on a post you made in the Team Tied Test thread. I'm not sure what the starting rate affects. I know the finish rate affects upshift and backshift. Can you explain why you recommended the other two?

Again thanks for the assistance.
 
on the primary the other spring would be 140-300, this will bring up your engagement to about 3800-4000 rpm. the sec springs are fine tuning devices based on your traction and texture of the snow. also if you need a touch less rpm backing down the spring is a quick way to do it. also if the ambient temp is above freezing you would want a touch more rear spring to hold the shift back so the sled would feel less doggy.(155-222). if you have superior hook you will also need the higher start rate rear spring to keep the secondary from up shifting to quickly,im talking first number..second number will help carry rpm on top.
 
racerdave said:
Dr, I've known Jim on a "How's it going?" basis since 98 or so. See him once or twice during the season.
Click to expand...
Jim and I got hooked up when he decided to build a 4 cylinder custom motor. I was finished with that project and he was just starting.He ended up with my 4 cylinder motor and is trying to sell it,there are pic.of it around. never met him face to face,only on the phone. good guy
 
I remember him telling me a little about building that motor. Seen the for sale adds too.
 
I believe it's still listed in the Polaris classifieds on the Hardcore forum.
 
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