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Setup For My First Sled - 16' 800 Rush LTD

I didn't measure them. Hoping southern Wisconsin gets enough snow to do more riding with the Polaris belt to see if it holds up.

Tapatalk blackmamba
 
Well I finally had a chance to pull the primary to inspect everything closely. Before my last trip I had my sled at the dealer to have the starter replaced under warranty and they forgot to put on an exhaust spring. It was hitting the carbon fiber down tube but I don't think it weakened it at all. And they didn't tighten the Y pipe enough so it was leaking again. Three of the bolts probably could have been removed by hand and the others barely needed any force with a ratchet. They are getting me all new exhaust donuts, gasket, spring and foil wrap. I'll make sure to use loctite on the exhaust bolts.

Onto looking at reasons the Gates belts were blowing so quickly before the next trip which will be a short one and more of a test for the Polaris belt to see if it holds up. I looked at the sheaves and they are in perfect shape. I measured the last Gates belt I have and it's the same as the Polaris. Put a mark on the edge and rolled it along the work bench. About the only thing I noticed is the primary sping was hitting the spider. Is this normal? Also it doesn't sit flat like the stock spring.
 

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Ru4real said:
Your likely problem is your secondary or your belt is too short. You are not overheating the belt based on your checks. Belts fail due to heat or overload. One overload cause is binding in the secondary clutch. One good check is to pull both clutch springs and put the clutches and belt back on. Use your hands to close the primary and open the secondary pushing the belt to follow.

Make sure both clutches are smooth. Make sure you can get your belt slightly beyond the top of the primary. If your checks are good, you only have secondary spring binding left as the cause.
Click to expand...

I put both the Gates and Polaris in the primary and it's right at the top. I still need to take the secondary apart to inspect it more closely. I don't feel any binding when I use the tool to open it up. I'll also put the primary and secondary on the sled without springs tomorrow night to see how it looks.
 
While they have the sled (again), have them check the y-pipe for flatness. I've seen them warped going way back to the XC days. Easy to drag the manifold across sandpaper starting with course sandpaper and finish up with fine. The manifold to head surface seals up better and stays sealed longer when the Y- pipe is perfectly flat rather than throwing new gaskets at it every so often. Also, torque to spec, not just call it close enough.
 
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The Y pipe is definitely off a little. I can fit a .026 feeler gauge behind the tabs on the right side when placing it on glass with the left side flat. I can fit .024 in the middle of the right pipe.

Tapatalk blackmamba
 
Just discovered I have one pro-s and one pro-x spring from the factory in the front. Talking to dealer to get it replaced.
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Tapatalk blackmamba
 
Good find on the front springs. How the heck did poo miss that one?
 
I looked at SLP and they have a replacement for the 120-310 but I don't see anything less than 120 start rate. They are cheaper than Polaris. I'd like to try a spring with a little less engagement and order both the 120-310 and lower rate from the same place. If not I guess it's not big deal. When I look at Polaris' website they have the 120-310 and a 110-290 but the 110-290 says for non electric start.

I thought all of the springs would be the same length but when looking at the service manual they seem to vary. Could this be the reason the 110-290 is for non electric start or is Polaris mistaken?

Not really sure what rates I should look for if I'm going lower.
 

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The Polaris 110/290 spring will work in your clutch with electric start. The length and wire diameter is how they get different lbs and rate springs.
 
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