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Traction is set up by the suspension and clutching for every type of gear ratio. Its set to get good sixty foot times. I don't know what your not understanding??

Your method of thinking the lower gear ratio is going to loose traction is set by suspension and clutching for great sixty foot times. If you set properly, nothing suffers. For your information, a 1.61 to a 2.21 ratio can be set for great sixty foot times without studs or with studs.It's all suspension and clutching to set this. I don't know what your not understanding and what more I can tell you?? Racing is all about the sixty foot time and traction is everything. It's not the gear ratio that decides traction
 
Just to confirm ... and if anyone is trying to figure this out ... if the sled has a Cobra track it's a 1.68 (22/37), and if it has a Rip2 track it's a 1.61 (23/37). This is per the online parts for the Pro-S


Thats for 2015 model year. They changed it for 2016. Standard model ripsaw RUSH 800 PRO S 2016 is 1.78 (23/41). LE with cobra track is 1.68 (22/37)

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Traction is set up by the suspension and clutching for every type of gear ratio. Its set to get good sixty foot times. I don't know what your not understanding??

Your method of thinking the lower gear ratio is going to loose traction is set by suspension and clutching for great sixty foot times. If you set properly, nothing suffers. For your information, a 1.61 to a 2.21 ratio can be set for great sixty foot times without studs or with studs.It's all suspension and clutching to set this. I don't know what your not understanding and what more I can tell you?? Racing is all about the sixty foot time and traction is everything. It's not the gear ratio that decides traction
Idk, but like i said im not racing the sled. Im trail riding it 95% of the time. So from one trail that the track spins when i nail it , to the next trail where it hooks up hard, i gotta change suspension set ups? Not what im looking for. I understand your point if i was drag racing sledafter sled. But im riding with buddys having fun. Its hard to get the sled to hookup for traction, but need it set up for 1ft woops
 
Idk, but like i said im not racing the sled. Im trail riding it 95% of the time. So from one trail that the track spins when i nail it , to the next trail where it hooks up hard, i gotta change suspension set ups? Not what im looking for. I understand your point if i was drag racing sledafter sled. But im riding with buddys having fun. Its hard to get the sled to hookup for traction, but need it set up for 1ft woops
If we get snow this winter, I will give you a complete report. I have changed to the 1.73 gear set up and new clutching after 2400 miles of the most fun I've ever had on a sled with the factory set up last year.
I ride all year with late model sleds from the "other" guys and this year my primary riding partner got a new xrs and I want to make sure that I can still have the upper hand once and awhile.
Imho, the low end is the strength for the axys chassis and I think that Brock is right when he says that a race is really all about the first 600-1000 feet and after that your already doing close to 100 mph and letting off. I'm all about flat, groomed trail riding myself, so i can't wait to try this new combo and pull over on the trail and wait for them to catch up again this year!
 


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