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Wont start without unplugging capacitor

Was this with the new capacitor you bought or the original? Also was that stator you bought Polairs OEM or aftermarket?
 
850Switchback said:
Was this with the new capacitor you bought or the original? Also was that stator you bought Polairs OEM or aftermarket?
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No it wasn't the new cap (original). also we have a same sled here which we needed to rebuild the motor and so, I took the stator and flywheel and put it on with the same result... so after I thought I had it good working sled after I switch the wire (yellow to yellow) and was able to started it and had the rev working 3 time then not working, I put the new cap with same result. as you said it would not work because I didn't have my 14.6 VDC coming out of the red wire anyways. Thinking bad connector somewhere or loose. it was working for 3 time then after I put it together same problem. the only thing I did is put the wrap around the wires. as the sled was running I shake the wires and had the meter on the cap and would not go beyond 8 Vdc.
 
Yeah my next comment was going to be I think you have a wiring gremlin somewhere in the harness, I was hoping the ground continuity check of the stator harness was going to fail and make it easy but the fact it came back to life after you screwed around with the connections for a while is leading towards something in there intermittently failing...which makes it a nightmare to diagnose.
 
850Switchback said:
Yeah my next comment was going to be I think you have a wiring gremlin somewhere in the harness, I was hoping the ground continuity check of the stator harness was going to fail and make it easy but the fact it came back to life after you screwed around with the connections for a while is leading towards something in there intermittently failing...which makes it a nightmare to diagnose.
Click to expand...

850Switchback said:
Yeah my next comment was going to be I think you have a wiring gremlin somewhere in the harness, I was hoping the ground continuity check of the stator harness was going to fail and make it easy but the fact it came back to life after you screwed around with the connections for a while is leading towards something in there intermittently failing...which makes it a nightmare to diagnose.
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lol, your not helping haha JK,(im grateful you sticking around for this battle) Im thinking harness swap. just to be sure, I cant find any loose or bare wire any where....
 
The stator & VR plugs all look ok? Not even slightly deformed? I know people have had them get too hot and melt in the past.
 
I was talking on the wiring harness side.....
 
Gentleman, I would like to make this a three musketeers approach! Also I am anxiously awaiting your findings!

I have a 2013 600 Switchback ES, pro ride chassis, with the same wiring and components as PROTURBO from reading this post at length and reviewing diagrams.

BACKGROUND: I put on 170 miles early this season and in the course of those miles burnt up 4 headlight bulbs, both high and low filaments. From previous happenings on older sleds, I replaced the voltage regulator. After installing, I started up sled, let warm up, hit the reverse button and noticed the gauge died and 3-4 seconds later the engine died and would not start. After much screwing around/reading, I found that if I applied 12v to the fuel pump prime plug, the sled would start and idle but the gauge would not light up at all. While troubleshooting, on a battery powered fuel pump, my ECU let out a molten plastic volcano, complete with magic smoke, yet still ran!

TO DATE (aka since plastic volcano):
3 New voltage regulators
2 New capacitors
1 New stator
2 New relays (located near primary clutch)
1 Used ECU
(all components have tested out good, old and new!)

Yet I still have the same no start, no run condition unless I power the fuel pump on 12v battery.

I am at the point of getting a 2013 harness as well but after reading your issues and reading the post here, https://www.snowandmud.com/threads/battery-light-flashing-and-engine-light-on-2013-pro-800.103115/

Have you tried or measured fuel pump draw? Mine tonight was 4.76amps DC.
 
Skatike27 said:
Gentleman, I would like to make this a three musketeers approach! Also I am anxiously awaiting your findings!

I have a 2013 600 Switchback ES, pro ride chassis, with the same wiring and components as PROTURBO from reading this post at length and reviewing diagrams.

BACKGROUND: I put on 170 miles early this season and in the course of those miles burnt up 4 headlight bulbs, both high and low filaments. From previous happenings on older sleds, I replaced the voltage regulator. After installing, I started up sled, let warm up, hit the reverse button and noticed the gauge died and 3-4 seconds later the engine died and would not start. After much screwing around/reading, I found that if I applied 12v to the fuel pump prime plug, the sled would start and idle but the gauge would not light up at all. While troubleshooting, on a battery powered fuel pump, my ECU let out a molten plastic volcano, complete with magic smoke, yet still ran!

TO DATE (aka since plastic volcano):
3 New voltage regulators
2 New capacitors
1 New stator
2 New relays (located near primary clutch)
1 Used ECU
(all components have tested out good, old and new!)

Yet I still have the same no start, no run condition unless I power the fuel pump on 12v battery.

I am at the point of getting a 2013 harness as well but after reading your issues and reading the post here, https://www.snowandmud.com/threads/battery-light-flashing-and-engine-light-on-2013-pro-800.103115/

Have you tried or measured fuel pump draw? Mine tonight was 4.76amps DC.
Click to expand...
First thank you for the information above

I was going to tell you the dc amp draw from the pump but my meter has a blown fuse. I soon I get a new fuse for the fluke meter I will let you know.
Your problem is the red wire to the relay coming from the VR, if no 14.6 vdcs from VR you will not have pump or gauges, the red wire feed the relay in turn feed the red/white to your console, there is also a red/ dark blue to the pin 33 (ecu). please note the red wire feeds the pump directly no thru the relay. check voltage from the VR . Also check from the 6 pin not the 3 pin from VR. The 3 pin is the to charge to battery if you do have a electric start. If you need the diagram let me know. One more thing, if you dont have proper voltage coming from the VR, you CAP will not charge to 14..6vdc and will not keep voltage up to get the reverse going while your engine goes dead to reverse .
Also see quantum for fuel pump......$80 your price
Hope this help

Pro

welcome to my nightmare
 
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Has the recall work been done on the 2013? Those year sleds got a whole new fuel pump assembly as part of the recall.
 
850Switchback said:
Has the recall work been done on the 2013? Those year sleds got a whole new fuel pump assembly as part of the recall.
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I have no clue if the recall was done on the fuel pump, will need to talk to the owner. waiting for my fuse to check the draw on the fuel pump.
 
Skatike27 said:
Have you tried or measured fuel pump draw? Mine tonight was 4.76amps
Click to expand...
The draw I have is 5.93 to 6 Amps DC to the fuel pump. Would this be too much to cuz voltage drop to the harness and no start when cap
is plugged in. No Cap is start (give and take).
 
That sounds high. Has the fuel pickup in the tank ever been replaced? They get plugged over time and need to be replaced, usually you can hear the pump whining when this happens..
 
850Switchback said:
That sounds high. Has the fuel pickup in the tank ever been replaced? They get plugged over time and need to be replaced, usually you can hear the pump whining when this happens..
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I saw on the other post it should be around 4.3 to 4.5 amp DC anything over 5 amp DC will have problems, I didn't see anything on the Service manual how to test dc amp draw numbers so I have nothing to compare. I also ran the vin number if it did have a recall for the pump and the result negative.
 
The recall question was aimed at Skatike27, only the '13 & '14 pro-ride sleds were part of the recall for some reason.
In your case, I'd question the fuel pickup still, there's an inline filter on those that could be getting plugged. Sounds like the pump solved a few voltage issues on that post, but those guys were running AV gas for turbos which killed the pump itself. Thats why I'm thinking pickup in your case.
 
850Switchback said:
The recall question was aimed at Skatike27, only the '13 & '14 pro-ride sleds were part of the recall for some reason.
In your case, I'd question the fuel pickup still, there's an inline filter on those that could be getting plugged. Sounds like the pump solved a few voltage issues on that post, but those guys were running AV gas for turbos which killed the pump itself. Thats why I'm thinking pickup in your case.
Click to expand...
Oh, IC. by the fuel pickup you mean fuel pump right, here is Canada we don't say pickup, pickup is a truck...lol
 
By pickup, I mean the assembly that sucks the gas from the bottom of the tank, not the fuel pump itself. See the arrow below.

1678748301709.png

1678748412325.png
 
The part I'm pointing at is an inline metal filter in the assembly, most likely plugged.
SPI makes an aftermarket version of this.

1678748801409.jpeg
 
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